Was it transplanted from a pot with a solid root ball, or from the ground so that most fine roots were lost?

In the former case, it should be OK if you shade it with a lawn chair or something for a week or so and keep it watered.

In the latter case, it cannot support the top growth it has, and it could die of dehydration. I would immediately remove all the soft new growth and some of the other foliage, and shade it. It might be helpful to remove most of the foliage, leaving the canes for the stored energy they contain.

It was in a pot with a solid root ball but I'll admit that my partner got a little rough when he replanted it. It went from a solid root ball about 6 inches in length to about 3 inches left with all the roots dangling. He also did this to the 2 other rose bushes but the Mr. Lincoln had no top growth to begin with and the Kennedy will probably do the same as the the one pictured above but it's in the shade for part of the day versus the other two which are in full sun all day long. I was too late in telling him that the roots shouldn't be horribly disturbed...

When you disturb the roots in planting or transplanting, it's as if you've cut off part of the water support system. It would be better to remove that soft, sappy growth that's wilting, keep it well watered, even a bit of overhead watering as the plant absorbs water through the leaves and canes, too. Ever notice how turgid, fresh and "crisp" looking your roses and other plants look after a nice rain? The advice to keep it partially shaded for a week or so would also help. When possible, transplanting or planting out from pots (particularly if someone gets rambunctious with the root ball) is perfect just before a rain where Nature can keep it moist and help you move it without trauma. Kim

In the future do this when planting a potted rose;
If followed to the letter, your rosebush will not know it's been moved and will suffer no stress.

Planting a potted rose
When planting a potted rose bush, care must be taken so soil doesn't fall from the roots or tiny feeder roots will be lost causing the plant to be stressed.
You can overcome this problem by doing the following.
First prepare the planting hole. Dig it twice as wide and deep as the pot. In the bottom portion of the hole you can mix horse manure or an organic fertilizer with the soil, but no chemical fertilizers.
With a sharp razor knife cut the bottom from the pot. Then cut down the two opposite sides of the pot about two inches. Using masking tape secure the two cuts then continue cutting the sides to a point halfway down. Secure these the same as the top cuts were secured. Continue cutting the sides all the way to the bottom. You�ll have a pot in three pieces, two sides and bottom, held together by tape.
Holding the bottom, place the pot into the hole. If the bush is a grafted plant, position it so the bud union (swollen knob/graft point from where the canes grow) will be 4-6 inches below the soil surface in cold winter growing zones. If the bush is on its own roots, position it so it�s no more than an inch deeper than in the pot.
Slide the bottom from the pot. Pull soil into the hole until it come to the lower tape. Cut the tape on both sides of the pot and continue filling the hole to just under the top tape. Cut the top tape and fill the hole so just the tops of the two pot sides are above the soil. Pull them straight up and complete filling the hole. Do not tamp the soil. Settle it with a hose set to just a trickle so all the water stays on the soil around the bush. There should be a depression around the bush. Add more soil until most of the depression is filled. Until the bush is growing well, water daily soaking the area well.
Planted this way, the bush will not know it�s been transplanted and should show no signs of stress.
When watering, make sure you apply enough so it gets to the roots. A light sprinkling only wets the surface. This can cause the feeder roots to grow towards the surface. In dry spells the bush will wilt. Watering deep eliminates this problem and causes the roots to grow deep enabling them to better withstand periods of no or little rainfall. A five gallon bucket with a 16D nail hole in the bottom side and filled with water, then placed next to the bush will supply the needed water with no runoff. All the water will soak into the soil at the base of the bush.
In sandy soil do this daily until the bush is growing well. In clay soil, do this when the leaves show signs of slight water distress but at least every other day until it�s growing well.
If your rose has weak canes and wants to lay over, plant it 3-5 inches deeper than it was in the pot. The soil will support the canes. As the bush matures and the roots get established, stronger, thicker canes will grow and will support themselves. Many climbers and some ground cover roses have naturally lax canes.

I had the same issue when I planted a knockout bush from a pot. Within a month maybe 6 weeks, it came back to life and started producing buds. I just kept it watered every other day an mulched around it.

I just transplanted about 35 roses, some from the ground and the majority from pots. Some of those potted ones were terribly root bound and I deliberately teased out the roots on them. Only a handful showed any wilt. I just clipped off the wilted parts and watered, Watered, WATERED! Every day for about 45 minutes with a sprinkler the first week and then every other day for a week. Then back to your normal schedule. The last 20 were planted on Saturday and the 2 or 3 that had some wilt have already started to recover. And believe me it's been HOT here! I did give them all a shot of watered down root stimulator to get them started on replacing any lost root growth. There's no way I can shade that whole bed and I don't have 35 lawn chairs, which would look pretty silly anyway, lol, so they're on their own. Just give them a little extra TLC and your roses should recover soon.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I used one of our fence panels (we are building a privacy fence slowly) to shade the Mr. Lincoln and the Double Delight. The Mr. Lincoln looks the same as always but after a very thorough watering, the Double Delight looked a little more perky this morning. I had already pruned off all the soon to flower buds and the softest, thinnest canes. I'll keep her in the shade for a week and then repost a picture to let you all see how she is doing and if any further steps need to be taken. I did fertilizer her when I replanted her with Miracle-Gro's Organic liquid feed which according to the package is a 6-0-0 ratio. Just Nitrogen. Hopefully this helps. My next payday I will get the fertilizers specific to roses. Any suggestions? The bed itself is roughly 4 bags of Scott's Humus and Manure, 4 bags of Miracle Gro's Organic Topsoil. One bag of Miracle Gro's Potting Mix and 4 bags of just basic Lowe's Organic Topsoil. Any suggestions are welcome if I've done anything wrong. Thanks again!

Careful, as the mucky planting medium already contains nutrients, and fertilizing a stressed plant makes it harder to take up water. That could already be enough for the current season.

Espoma Rose Tone and Plant Tone are very good. Roses are just plants, though, and there is actually no rose-specific fertilizer.