Michelle, I'm far from expert in pot culture, but here are some thoughts.

1. Potting soil is usually pH adjusted with lime to pH 6.5 or 7. After a year or two in the same soil, it would be good to check the pH. You could try using Miracid (whatever it's currently named) part of the time. It doesn't affect pH significantly, but it has extra chelated trace elements.

2. IMO, seaweed products should be applied as a foliar spray where a small amount might serve as a growth stimulant. The fertilizer value of seaweed is so low, it seems wasteful to apply it to the soil; also it adds harmful sodium, which tends to build up in pots.

3. A lot of people grow great roses with only soluble fertilizers, so my guess is, it's basically an aesthetic choice.

4. The disbudded plant has to realize it's disbudded and make the decision to mobilize latent buds, so you may not see new shoot growth for two weeks, but without disbudding it might be four weeks. Without disbudding, the shoot is usually not going to make any additional leaves; it's just going to develop the flower. With disbudding, the shoot will elongate just as it would otherwise, plus it will break a couple of growth buds sooner.

1. I'm kind of oblivious to these things, always thinking it is weather related.

2 & 3. I use Espoma Holly-tone or Mills Magic Mix in my pots, along with any water solubles a few times a season (meaning, when I have the energy for it). If ambitious, I'll mix up some NH fish/seaweed and pour it on. I include liquid seaweed in every fungicide spray (optimally, every two weeks). They could probably do with a little more, but the established pot dwellers look pretty good (thrips damage notwithstanding).

4. I don't disbud/debud (or whatever) unless it is a new own-root, and then usually just the first bud-set. I don't even think I notice what it does after I remove a bud, I just don't care much as long as it is still alive. Oblivion again, I figure it is taking good time to do whatever. But, just because you don't see any growth above ground doesn't mean there isn't growth going on under ground. Root growth is part of the cycle too.

Michelle,
I want to touch upon something Michael pointed out, and that is potting soil/mix. If these have been in the pots for two or more years, make this the last. What I do with my pots is to remove the rose from the container completely while it is still dormant. I usually do this in late March. I dump out all of the old soil and add new. I also use this opportunity to decide whether the rose should be re-potted in a bigger container.

2. They get fed weekly with something I have lying around, plus I feed with a foliar feed at the same time I am applying fungicide.

3. How about some tea? Mine get alfalfa tea just like my others do. Speaking of that, I need to brew up some more tonight. Thanks for the reminder!

4. I never disbud, and that is even on my brand new rooted cuttings.

Okay, we're agreed you need to feed lightly and often with a rotation of a variety of materials, chemical and organic. Checking the pH is not a bad idea, but in Colorado, I'm going to guess your water has a high pH and that's not going to be a problem.

You could be overwatering. Turn a few roses out of their pots and see if the drainage is really good and if the bottoms smell like fresh air or if they smell like an old swamp.

You're just removing flower buds and not pinching back growth to make fuller plants? When you disbud, I wonder if you're taking too much wood? Some classes of roses have a lot of dormant buds right under the flowering wood and send up new shoots right there. I'm thinking of Portlands and HP's. I only disbud if the plants are band sized or smaller. After that, I may remove all but one bud, but I let the plant flower.

For plants with chlorosis, use chelated iron, available at your local nursery supply - not at all unusual if your Ph is high and iron will fix the problem almost over night.
I try to repot at least every othr year though every year is preferable. The soil gets compacted and sinks so I turn the rose out of its pot, put fresh soil in the bottom, return the plant with most of the old soil and put fresh potting soil around the edges. I've kept roses for 30 years doing this so it must be OK.
I use slow release fertilizer - lazy gardener's solution. But newly repotted roses have to wait to make new growth before they get fertilizer. And no fertilizer in winter when most of them are growing slowly if at all (they are indoors and though I get flowers in Nov & Dec, there is a gap when the days are too short and then they start up again the end of March.)

I am extremely careful to make sure I don't overwater my pot ghetto plants as it is very easy to do. So, I bought a moisture meter to help me decide to when to water. It may look dry on top but in the middle of the pot it is still plenty moist enough.
I usually add a little more iron to my spray and soil drench that I use on my pots and that seems to help keep the foliage nice and green.
Just my two cents...
John