Darn it, that didn't work...how do I get the photos to show up in the post. I know I've done it before.

I can see the images perfectly well.

The first image shows aphids, one is a winged adult, but the other is adult, as well. The other images show discarded exoskeletons. The 'bumps' appear to be from some kind of mite damage and I believe that the red stuff on the back are galls produced by those mites.

If you read the labels of insecticidal soap and Neem products, you'll find the same warnings as on your container of dormant oil. ALL products need to be handled with care. Pest control labels will tell you how TO use the chemical, as well as how NOT TO. You want to avoid breathing, ingesting, or spilling any of these products.

The use of dormant oil is an excellent way to cut down on the number of pest insect outbreaks in the spring. I'd strongly suggest that you continue with the dormant applications. You may find that you have so few problems next season that you don't need to worry at all.

Personally, I wear something protective on my eyes and a simple mask when spraying horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, or neem over my head. I wear long pants,long sleeves, and disposable gloves. Doesn't everybody??

NOW WITH EMBEDED PICTURES!!

I have a 20 year old Little Leaf Linden that has Sooty Mold and a few other symptoms every year. Please help ID the culprits:

Adult & baby aphid?
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Adult, baby aphids, and aphid casks or mummies from parasites? Not sure what the hairy stuff is in the crevices of the leaf.
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Aphid Cask (what the adult Aphic emerged from)?
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These little horns are covering a lot of the lower leaves. Any ideas what they are? The wet spots are honey due from Aphids sucking.
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These bumps showed up on some of the lower leaves a week later. Not sure if they are aphid or Sooty mold related. Any idea what this is or what caused it? This is the top of the leaf:
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Bottom of same leaf:
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The next natural question is how do I control this stuff. I'd rather not use poisons. I tried Bonide Horticultural Oil a couple winters ago and the next summer the sooty old was decreased. I'd rather switch to either insecticidal soap or neem oil this year, because they seem even safer. The horticultural oil has a lot of warnings about not getting the stuff on your skin or breathing it. From experience, you take a both in the stuff when your're trying to spray a whole tree, so the soap or neem would be preferable if you think they will work.

Thanks!

Rhizo,

Thanks. From what I just read, it sounds like the mites are harmless so I won't worry about them and the galls.

Any idea what the little green horns are in the 4th picture?

Since I missed the dormant application this past winter, do you think a summer application would help to cut down the aphids and reduce the Sooty Mold that is just now starting up? Bonide also claims (via their support line) that the neem oil will help wash away the mold and acts as a natural fungicide. Anyone have any experience with these claims?

Regarding the warning labels, I think the oil is the most toxic:

Bonide Horticultural Oil RTU:
Harmful if swallowed, inhaled, or absorbed through the skin. Do not get in eyes, on skin or on clothing. Avoid breathing spray mist. In case of contact, wash immediately
with soap and warm water. Wash hands, arms, and face thoroughly with soap and warm water after handling. Wash all contaminated clothing with soap and hot water before re-use.

Boneem: RTU
Hazards to humans and domestic animals CAUTION - Causes moderate eye and skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin,
eyes or clothing. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling. Remove contaminated clothing and wash before reuse.

Insecticidal Soap:
No real warnings for humans

The little green horns are from a different mite, but similar to the bump producers. Again, not damaging to the health of the tree. Nothing you can do now.

I firmly believe that oils can be used with great safety. If you are truly concerned, and I think that you are, there are plenty of vegetable-based horticultural oils.

Neem oil does act as a fungicide for certain plant pathogens, but black sooty mold does not qualify in that category. Once you get rid of the aphids, the sugars that the black mold feeds on will cease to grow. I don't know of any claim that neem will help wash away the stuff any sooner than it will naturally disappear.

Be careful about using any of these products in the heat of the day.

By the way, your pictures are very interesting! About the only thing I DON'T see are the aphid mummies you mentioned.

Thanks jean.

Rhizo, yes, there don't seem to be a lot of natural predators to the aphids on this tree. It is covered with aphids!

So do you think doing a summer application is worth it or will they return just as strong?

Is the horticultural oil more affective than neem or soap? Are the vegetable based oils as good as the petrolium based? Can you suggest one?

Someone also mentioned just using a stong stream of water to wash the aphids off, but they seemd to cling pretty tenaciously to the leaves. Would a pressure washer work or would that be too dangrous to use on a tree?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to come up with a plan I can follow for years to come.

"Not sure what the hairy stuff is in the crevices of the leaf"

That's just hairs on the leaf - part of the tree. Look up 'pubescence' or 'pubescent' in a botanical textbook.

Resin