Your tree is in steep decline because it's being asked to tolerate cultural conditions at or beyond what it's genetically programmed to tolerate. I'm guessing it's probably been potted up to a larger size pot several times, but never truly been repotted, which includes root pruning and a complete change of soil. If that's the case, root congestion would undoubtedly be severely limiting, as the limitations associated with it begin at about the time the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact. It's possible that, by this time, there is calcified soil in the center of the root mass that might be so hardened a chisel would be required to remove it - no way to tell until you get a look at the roots. Other potential issues that would be much closer to expected than suspected, would be a soil with a badly skewed ratio of nutrients in it, and a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil/soil solution. The badly compacted center of the root/soil mass is probably limiting the ability of both plant and soil to absorb water, and limiting the root system's oxygen supply, which is a key factor in making available the energy that drives root function. There's little doubt that it can be saved, but it'll be a chore, and something I'd probably start planning to do in June ..... if you live in the northern hemisphere. Lots more to talk about, but I'll wait to hear what you have to say. Al

looks like the heat of summer set in.. and the root mass cant keep up with water loss ... dig a 3 to 6 inch hole.. at the edge of the ball planted.. and FIND OUT... if the root ball is too wet.. or two dry ... also look for the root flare while you are there ... tell us your native soil ... also ... and may as well describe your watering protocol ... telling us you have a schedule doesnt tell us much.. nor how you apply such ... if the test hole indicates its dry at depth.. i ... in my sand.. would probably put the hose on trickle ... for a few hours .. until a hole on the other side.. might show moisture at depth ... did the builder have a landscaper plant it .. or a bricklayer??? ken

It's very common for cherries to have disease and insect issues, and typically the trees don't live much longer than 15 years in the Eastern U.S. due to the high summer humidity. (In the Western half of the country they often succumb to drought stress from not being watered) Grafting creates its own set of issues and only takes away from the tree's lifespan since incompatibility issues start showing up 10 years down the line (from differing growth rates between the rootstock and scion). You can prolong the tree's life by giving it extra care, and inspecting it for problems throughout the year, but it may be a little late for that now with all the dead wood, which tends to invite more problems.

OK, I'm game to start... Your soil test results show that there has been way too much unnecessary fertilising going on in your gardens. You say "Mom used to spend a lot of money on miracle grow garden soil and some kind of rose fertilizer. She would just give that to (every) thing growing in the yard." And " I figured the bottle brush was needing some too, so i poured about 2 or 3 pounds of epsom salt around the tree and waited." There's really no reason for you to throw around fertilisers willy-nilly, without knowing the reason for it. For your bottle-brush (Callistemon) specifically, they hate pretty much ANY fertiliser, but especially phosphorous, which will kill them dead. And your soil test indicates very high levels of phosphorous. Personally, I'd cut that plant down to about 6" high and see if it re-sprouts. They survive this treatment very well and grow back big and fast. (Unless it's already past the point of saving.) In the meantime, I'd stop using any bought chemical fertilisers and continue with what you're doing now, just adding leaf mulch, compost and maybe a light dusting of blood/bone meal. Then, in a year or so, get another soil test done for comparison with this one.