My J.D. GT275 HOOD is falling apart

14 years ago

My 1998 GT275 hood just came apart in my hand. I pulled up on the hood to check the engine compartment and the plastic all around the vent slots just cracked. I hated to do it but I taped it all back together with duct tape for the time being, man it looks so redneck. So my question is there an after-market hood made of sheet metal that I can replace this thing with. I have checked with the local JD dealer and the top part of the hood is about 300.00 + labor. I already replaced the bottom hinge unit and I am tired of messing around with the plastic components. What are my options out there? I have checked for scrap yards around the Houston area that have small tractor parts but no luck at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated, the tractor has been great mechanically up until the seat separated from the backing now this.

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Comments (8)

krnuttle
14 years ago
Have you tried a good glue for the repairs that was designed for the plastic use to make the hood?

I have had success gluing plastic parts that have broken.
marineguy
14 years ago
I don't know of a metal hood replacement, but if the plastic replacement costs $300, imagine what a metal one would go for.
I've been on the fence for a while about forking out the $$$ for a new hood for my GT262 (same hood). It's a design flaw which they fixed with my next-generation GT225.
Mine looks fine, but when you lift it to access the engine, the whole thing just comes off. No big deal, but it's not practical to leave the lights hooked up.
The hood is in two pieces, an upper and lower. The $300 part is just the lower. The whole thing is something like $500. I wouldn't pay JD the labor to replace it. It shouldn't be hard, just a lot of bolts.
I don't know if the exhaust makes the plastic brittle at the hinges or what, but it's a shame they didn't come up with a redesigned hood for these tractors.
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Your layout has some similarity to ours and we have plenty of light. Our cans have 65W floods in them so I think you have the correct bulbs. As to locations, our sink cabinet run forms an L where yours has an opening to get at the fridge. Because of your fridge, your light #4 is moved closer to the fridge where our equivalent #4 is in line with #5 and #6. We only have one can over our 3' sink where you have 2. We don't have a #3 light and our #2 light is over the left portion of the island (centered over the prep portion of the island as the right side has our range top with overhead vent & lighting). Because of the vent hood, we do not have pendants over the island. We do not have a hallway where your #1 light is located as that is just a doorway into the dining room, so we don't have a light in that location. Now we do have 3 cans located in the walkway on the other side of the island (where you have none). These 3 cans are parallel to lights #4, #5 and #6. This is where I think you have a dead spot that makes you feel as if you do not have enough light. We also have two cans on a separate switch above the dinner table (we only have these lights on when we are sitting at the table). You have more windows in your eating area with the bow and almost 6' on sink wall where we only have a 6' slider on sink wall and a walkway into the FR where your bow window is located. In summary, we have 7 cans around/over our island area (and 1 over the sink) where you have 6 (but more to forming an "L" as opposed to surrounding the island) and 2 over the sink. Since you feel you do not have enough light, I would have 2 more cans put in the walkway on the other side of the island that would be parallel to #5 and #6. HTH
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lildeere
14 years ago
Could you post some pics of the hood? Also have you asked a body shop tech if they can repair it? They work more and more with these type of materials, might be worth an inquiry.
corvetteguy
14 years ago
I Just bought some HF tarps.
And I got a roll of GREEN duct tape.
would match good.

You can clean the underneath, get fiberglass resin
and a roll of mat. Cut the mat to size 2 or
3 pcs coat with resin mix and place each piece
over cracks. Use stick to get out bubbles.
Add next piece, and next.
let harden.
cut out vents.

Done
bushleague
14 years ago
Some guys use methylene chloride and lexan for plastic hood repairs. I know it's hard to imagine a plastic hood on a $3000 + tractor, and the phone numbers John Deere wants for replacements. I'd check eBay, lots of new and used hood parts at a discount. I just picked up an LX279 and was able to repair the lower hood using the epoxy recommended by GM for composite body panels. The upper hood was toast and bondoed (is that a word?) together so I picked up a new upper hood on eBay for $157 w/free ship. So far I'm into this tractor for $557 however I still need decals.
HU-554323497
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Use Amazing Goop to plastic weld hood. Works awesome.
Sherry Simmons
2 years ago
Can you buy only the top part of the hoid for the Gt 262? i dont need the bottom part...
krnuttle
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
If you go to the JD parts web site

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/83452/referrer/navigation/pgId/2597422

It is listed and appears that you can buy it from JD.

If you have not found this site and you have a JD product you are missing a lot. All models of JD products are listed with a complete parts break down.

I use it mostly to understand how the parts go together on my JD. However I have purchase part from JD for my 20 year old LT155, they were in stock at the local dealer.

If you watch this site you can also find coupons for various items you need for your tractor. I routinely use a coupon from this site for my yearly service kit. Some time the coupon is worth 10$

My J.D. GT275 HOOD is falling apart

Comments (8)

krnuttle

marineguy

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