split leaf japanese red maple losing bark

curios

13 years ago

weeping japanese red maple, planted before we bought our

house, probably about 50 years old -- now huge.

noticed this year areas of bark loss -- down to green

area of branch.

beautiful leafage at bottom edges, but very sparse at

top where branches bend.

any help appreciated.

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Comments (5)

Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years ago
pix help.

Dan
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
most JM's are not viable in my version of z5 ...

how cold was your winter this year??? any records???

any changes to your microclimate.. like removing its protection???? .. some giant shrub that was taken out.. allowing winter winds.. or winter sun????

otherwise.. need pix ..

ken
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The frost probably killed the leaves. It should start leafing out again in a couple of days. If you see NO new leaves in another couple of weeks, lightly scratch the bark on a couple of smaller branches. If the layer right under the brown - the cambium layer - is still green then that branch is still alive. Keep checking, as branches can still die, but it should leaf out just fine. Keep it watered, don't feed it, and wait at least until June. If there are no leaves, and the cambium is brown where it was green, then it is probably dead. If it's not an eyesore where it is, leave it for another month or two, as it may still sprout out. If it was grafted - there is a thickened area of bark somewhere on the trunk, and the bark may be a slightly different color or texture above and below - then any sprouts above it are your JM, but those below it are the base/root donor, and could be any maple. It's up to you if you want to keep that. Most trees are better planted in the fall, rather than in the summer, so you might as well give this one every chance before digging it out and replacing it. If this one is a major eyesore, and you can't stand looking at it, you can plant a specimen growing in a nursery pot pretty much any time, you will just have to be REALLY careful about watering it.
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1. Yes, this is true. It is also true that some red leaved cultivars will 'bronze' out in too much sun. Ideally, you will want to site just about any Japanese maple with morning sun/afternoon shade or filtered or dapped all day shade. All red leaved JM's will develop the best leaf color if they get at least a few hours of direct sunlight. 2. I would trust ONLY plants from known reputable growers and retailers of Japanese maples. And even then, there can be tagging or ID errors. Box stores buy in bulk from whatever vendor offers them the best deals. These are not always the most scrupulous of growers and have been known to sell seedling JM's by cultivar names - a HUGE no-no! Box stores also tend to have only the most common cultivars whereas independent garden centers that specialize in JM's will offer a very wide and high quality selection. It is a bit of a case of you get what you pay for :-)) 3. No. Trunk color has little to nothing to do with foliage color. btw, 'Tamukeyama' IS a cultivar. There is just one with that name and ALL Tamukeyama's should look the same.
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I looked at your pics. Cut that off. Every time you see a branch "whip" out like that, cut it back to the origin. Your tree is grafted. The long dark green leafed branches are growing from the bottom part of the tree, the "base" and not the grafted portion you want to grow. Normally, good grafts don't do this. Sometimes this happens, roses too. Congrats on your tree, it looks nice. I have a baby coral bark that I planted last September that has grown a little this year, I love the red barks in winter.
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curios
Original Author
12 years ago
will try for pix tomorrow --in meantime, just heavy
snows, which we've had before. no temp records.

tree was planted to overhang small pond that was installed
before we bought house. pond was cemented in, but cement
developed several cracks. had pond refitted last year,
so that about 1/3 of root system is no longer getting
water -- getting plenty of water from remaining 2/3.
plenty of leaves on branches and twigs overhanging pond.

other change in microclimate was large branch from overhanging tree fell last winter. red maple now getting
more sun.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years ago
did the loss of the other tree.. cause more direct sun light on the bark in winter ??

is the damage on the south side... or SE or SW sides ...

how was the pond refitted last year .. was any heavy equipment used in the process????

it might be hard to delineate between too much water from a broken pond.. and the change in ambient sunlight ...

a picture sure might help ....

ken
Xusev_yahoo_com
12 years ago
I have the same problem with my 70 year old Japanese maple, bark is falling off three of the branches and one of the main trunks has dry flaking area about a foot long.

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split leaf japanese red maple losing bark

Comments (5)

Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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split leaf japanese red maple losing bark

Comments (5)

Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

Related Discussions

curiosOriginal Author

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

Xusev_yahoo_com

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

curios
Original Author