That sounds very much like winter cold damage. I removed a Hunza (on Citation rootstock) this year due to almost those same symptoms. Is there any growth lower down on the main trunk? That is what mine was doing. It might be a goner. Pale green leaves, no new growth, small leaves, leaf drop.... Mine did put out a bunch of new growth down low on the trunk which i really didn't feel like bothering with, so i chopped the tree down.

It's pretty much accepted that you can (and maybe should) leave natural burlap on the ball, but cut off the top third, so that a big bunch of it doesn't end up in the hole. I usually cut off the top of the basket, too. Ties and straps come off. The addition of phosphorus to the soil does nothing to promote root development. When are they going to stop with that? Roots will grow perfectly fine on their own initiative and at their own pace and require no 'root boosters' at all. All of the phosphorus we've been adding to soil has become a problem. ammo, you haven't told us about your post planting watering regime. Lack of sufficient water to the root ball is one of the primary problems of new tree plantings.

The best watering schedule is one according to the needs of the tree and its roots - not a set schedule, despite how much easier that is. Poke a finger into the root ball, up to the second knuckle. If it is dry or warm at that depth, water enough water to get the entire root ball wet. Then wait - how long depends on your weather and soil: sand or clay; hot, cool, sunny, cloudy, windy, etc. - and check again with a poke in a day or two. If it is still damp/cool at the end of your finger, wait and check again on another day - if dry, water. After a couple of weeks, the roots SHOULD have grown out from the root ball, and you can check the soil next to the root ball. However, if it looks like it's not getting enough water between your watering, then go back to checking the root ball for the rest of the year. Water even after the leaves fall off, as the roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. If you haven't mulched, I would, using any organic mulch (organic in the sense that it will break down over time, and enrich and improve the soil, not as in 'certified'), NOT over any plastic or landscape fabric, no deeper than 4", as widely as possible, and put no mulch in the inch or so next to the trunk. Mulch will keep the soil more evenly moist and cool, will keep weeds down, and will help improve the soil as it breaks down, and on a berm, will limit "washing" of the sides. And, in my opinion, it just makes beds look more "finished", but that's my opinion.... As long as the cambium layer - the green layer just under the bark, is still green, on the twigs - I wouldn't worry too much about early leaf fall - it should leaf out fine in the spring if kept well watered over the rest of the year. There are usually at least a few winter-killed twigs to trim off in the spring anyway, so wait until the new leaves start to show, and it is clear what is dead or alive before you start clipping anything off.

Hi Kajun..how cold did it get in the garage before bringing your tree in the house? Did you leave your tree in the garage, then bring inside after the snow came in previous years? It's hard to tell by the pic, but the leaves look frost-bitten..When a plant has frost damage, foliage turns a gray/black color. That is, before turning crispy/crunchy. For now, (if it's not freezing) take the tree outside, shake/remove all dead leaves..They won't resume health. If it's really cold out, shake plant over a trash bag. Set in the brightest spot, since soil is moist, don't water. If you use Superthrive, apply 10 drops per gallon of water, but for the time being, refrain using fertilizers. Only when soil is dry, looks crumbly, should you water.. Supply humidity..Do you have a humiidfer? If so, run it. Spraying foliage daily will help w/humidity and keep leaves clean. Your orange was beautiful, Kajun..Since the roots are healthy, I truly believe, given time, new leaves will form..But patience is important..this isn't something that will occur overnight. As the days lenghten, baby leaves will sprout. Only after your tree looks like it's returned to life, and it's the proper time, fertilize with a Citrus fertilizer..or whatever you normally use. The important thing is, (since your tree is probably in shock) not to overwater. I'd also really consider using Superthrive. Good luck, Toni