Rj, " The differences I'm noticing are that all the tea recipes I've found before bug juice brew in the shade, bug juice in the sun." It really doesnÂt matter; the amount of time to brew CT is more important. 12 (twelve)-24 (twenty four) hours is more than enough (unless temperature is less than 60°F). You can do bug juice in the shade too IMO. Stirring compost tea with a stick is almost as effective as using aquarium bubblers is the opinion of some. I have used a stick when I feel the need. " Does the fruit feed it longer w/ out addition? I'm guessing that over ripe would be best?" Yes, there is no need to add extra fruit. Rotten fruit is always better, more natural sugar in the fruit. I try to make a batch of Bug juice that will be used completely, with none saved. CT, from what I have learned should be used before the brew goes anaerobic, thus the limited brewing time. " Bug juice say's to use ''good fresh compost'', is that finished but not cured? Still cooking, and taken from the core?" Finished (all material unrecognizable) is good, cure/matured is better. The reason is because cured will have nitrogen fixing bacteria in the compost, thus you will be growing those bacteria when you make the tea. As it relates to fungi, from what I have learned they do not grow in CT, that is why using bigger bubbles while brewing is a good idea. Fungi are shaken loose from the compost and float in the tea; without good agitation one will not get as much fungi into the brew. Any compost that is still "cooking" should not be used; there may still be pathogens and other bad bacteria/fungi, along with seed seeds still alive in the compost. We donÂt want to be spreading bad things all over the property, thus the suggestion to use cured compost when making compost tea. " You mentioned that you store yours and use it at 50:1 when it gets older. Are you shaking it daily? What do you use to store it in?" Again, I try not to have to store CT (with bug juice), better to use it all at once. When I do have to store it I only use it as a "soil drench" for plants only. I do not stir or blend once the tea is in a drum, they are mixed when I add them to whatever I am using to transfer the brew to the garden. When storing, I use one of the drums pictured below: Fermented is easier to deal with and store; however, aerated compost tea is faster to make. I am not exactly sure which is more effective due to my short time using BIM. I will admit that I am starting to like BIM more, but it is still too early to tell. I trust this helps; if you have more questions, just ask Blutranes

Valerie RU said: "Blutranes, do not take my comments personally, please. I am far away from treating (or medical treating) somebody. I will take it the same way I get it. Let us find out if the same can be said for you in the comfort of your own home. Apparently some around here insist on confusing "putrefaction" with "fermentation". And too, it would appear that some plan on consuming Bug Juice, BIM, EM, and other organic solutions. However I strongly suggest that one abandon such thoughts and adopt the practice of waiting until crops are harvested before eating/drinking them, not at the beginning of the growing process. These "teas" and all other decomposed organic materials are for use in the soil, NOT at the dinner table. Everyone, please make a mental note; "Compost tea is not to be drank by humans, ever." It may smell good; may even resemble something you drank last night; however, these liquids are again for the soil ONLY. One would be wise in truth to find something else to quench their thirst and live to drink another day. If one is not emotionally strong enough, or does not possess enough self-control to not drink the compost tea, BIM, or EM may I suggest you go and get your organic food from the nearest grocery store. " Yes, there is no LB there. But there are Yeasts. Yeasts are also unaerobic or slightly aerobic microotganisms." It is too late to start copy/pasting now; nor will trying to clean up skewed logic with doubletalk serve any purpose. Dr. Martin clearly states to keep the bug juice brew aerobic: " You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil." The difference is in the amount of time the tea is allowed to brew (12 hours). To put focus on alcoholic mentality (equating everything with getting drunk) has nothing to do with organic gardening or making compost tea. We are talking about creating an environment where clean healthy soil, with an abundance of proactive microorganisms, is correcting the imbalance found within any given soil. To start contradicting yourself at this stage of the game is fruitless, and it changes nothing. "It is impossible to unite aerobic and unaerobic bacteria." Prof. Dr. T. Higa has done extensive research in the field of EM, and has established a worldwide commercial distribution of his organic discovery. At a conference 1989 the good doctor stated: "In particular, we found that zymogenic and synthetic microorganisms coexisting in soil suppressed the generation of heat and gas when fresh organic substances were plowed into the soil, and were extremely effective for the growth of crops and the increase of their yield. As I mentioned before, if fresh organic substances are plowed into soil which has putrescent microorganisms, harmful gas and heat are generated, affecting crops. However, we have observed that, if microorganisms in soil are predominantly zymogenic, organic substances plowed into soil are transformed into amino acids and saccharides, which are useful to plants, and are recycled as source of organic energy." And too: "The main microorganisms working in this process are synthetic microorganisms, such as photosynthetic bacteria and nitrogen fixing bacteria. Generally photosynthesis is the process in which water is decomposed into oxygen and hydrogen inside chlorophyll using sunlight energy, with oxygen being released into the air and hydrogen being used to reduce carbon dioxide to produce saccharides (carbohydrates)." The joining of aerobic (synthetic) and anaerobic (zymogenic/fermented) microorganisms is further explained" " This process can be simply realized by artificially changing the microflora in soil to those of the zymogenic type through the application of zymogenic microorganisms. Although this technique has drawn attention in the area of food and feed, no one ever thought of applying it to crop cultivation simply because the phenomenon is extremely exceptional in nature." Yet still further: " Therefore, if soil is changed to zymogenic and synthetic soil, in which zymogenic microorganisms and synthetic ones coexist, not only can organic substances be effectively used, but also the soil fertilizes itself under proper humidity and temperature. Since such soil can synthetically or zymogenically transform harmful substances produced in natural processes into useful substances, putrescent decomposers and disease bacteria cannot infest plants. As a result, soil becomes clean and healthy, and can withstand sudden changes in its environment." (see link below "8. Potential of Zymogenic and Synthetic Soil") Indeed it is very honorable to attempt to protect the membership with true concerns about techniques that may cause harm. However, to sling unfounded rhetoric without even bothering to review the data that is being discussed is plain foolish. Not withstanding, said procedures are now used world wide with a clear history of critical scrutiny from many areas of science firmly established speaks for itself. Finally, to vainly attempt to combine alcohol used for intoxication with fermentation techniques involving BIM, EM, or aerobic Bug Juice (compost tea) is silly to be kind, and asinine to be exact. Aerobic and fermented microorganisms can and have been combined in soil for growing healthy, nutritious, and safe organic foods. Also, it many areas of pollution control, animal feeds, and human health have said techniques been deployed successfully. Those who disagree with the use of Bug Juice, BIM, EM, and both aerobic/anaerobic compost tea have every right to do so. However, to troll threads throughout the community twisting information that has not even been read leaves much to be desired. Let us trust that such antics will immediately come to a halt so we can go about the business of making and/or using compost, soil, and mulch Blutranes

This is the orginal recipe from Dr Steve. This is what you need in order to make Bug JuiceÂ. One 5 gallon bucket. Corn starch Bread yeast MaxGro our fishmeal product, or another source of protein. Blood meal will work. Ripe fruit, such as plums, apples, apricots, peaches, watermelons, peeled bananas or whatever. No citrus. The Bug Juice Formula Fruit: The fruits mentioned above contain sucrose, proteins, various vitamins and other nutrients, easily digestible cellulose and pectin. They are the perfect food for soil microorganisms. Pit the fruit, and smash it so it can be more rapidly digested by microorganisms. It should be mush. Add 1 pound or so to the bucket. Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug JuiceÂ. Cornstarch: Starch is present in all organic matter as a form of storage energy. Bugs need to degrade it in the soil in order to obtain a carbon source for their metabolism. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket. MaxGro or blood meal: MaxGro is a heat sterilized fishmeal that has a high nutrient and growth promoting value for plants and microorganisms. It is the protein source for the bugs and the source of biochemical building blocks for the auxin and cytokinin plant growth hormones. Blood meal is a poor substitute, but it is more readily available. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket. Yeast: Yeast is a cheap source of B vitamins. It is also a source of cytokinins and protein. Mix two teaspoons of yeast, two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of bread flour to 2 cups of warm water. When the yeast stops foaming, it has consumed most of the sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of corn starch, 1 tablespoon of bread flour and allow the mixture to sit for 2 hours. You are adapting the yeast to the starch. This is important. In order to break down starch, the yeast must be induced to secrete the enzyme alpha amylase. You want to promote this reaction. Most sugars in the soil are in the form of starchÂnot sucrose. You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil. Bug Juice can be directly applied to plants, trees, grass, whatever. It is disgusting to look at, but it is a powerful organic "nutrient soup" for the soil. And you made it. You are now officially a backyard scientist.

Before the Great Recession of 2008 hit, Regan Nursery carried a very good collection of mature maples. They even had some good (and very pricey) specimens of conifers, but their collection of high value plants shrank noticeably when the recession hit hard and their collection still has not recovered to pre-recession levels. All this is also true of Berkeley Horticultural. Alden Lane in Livermore also had some nice conifers before the recession and again Alden Lane's conifers stock dropped like a rock since the recession. There are a few still decent places in the Bay Area to shop for dwarf conifers. One is East Bay Nursery in Berkeley and the other is Armstrong Garden Centers in Dublin. What I particularly like about East Bay Nursery is they will special order plants for you, but you will have to prepay the order. Most other nurseries don't even bother with taking special orders. If you are willing to expand your definition of the greater Bay Area, then Pond and Garden located in Cotati (which is located midway between Petaluma and Santa Rosa) is THE preeminent nursery to visit to shop for high quality dwarf conifers. Their selection of dwarf conifers is simply unmatched. Pond and Garden easily has four to five times the varieties of high quality conifers carried by East Bay nursery. Most of Pond and Garden's conifers come from Iseli. It's really worth the drive up to Cotati if you are as nuts about dwarf conifers as I am. As is true of all nurseries carrying conifers, they receive deliveries from the Oregon growers around October, so their selection would be best starting in late fall and lasting to about mid spring. For the rest of the year, their stock is consisting of mostly leftovers. The cycle starts again in October or so.