Interesting link you provided. :)

I noticed a couple of things in the recipe from the link:

(1) Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug JuiceÂ.

(2) ...use...a handful of good compost....

I'm not a scientist by any stretch of the imagination, but I would think that after a while, at least, most of the nutrients from your ingredients would already be poured onto your plants and soil, and subsequent batches you make from the same compost would be considerably weaker.

The object of most compost teas is to make your own organic fertalizer, to grow a variety of good bugs, and to make a little compost go a long(er) way.

How much did you dilute the tea when you used it? Or did you dilute it?

Rj,

" The differences I'm noticing are that all the tea recipes I've found before bug juice brew in the shade, bug juice in the sun."

It really doesnÂt matter; the amount of time to brew CT is more important. 12 (twelve)-24 (twenty four) hours is more than enough (unless temperature is less than 60°F). You can do bug juice in the shade too IMO. Stirring compost tea with a stick is almost as effective as using aquarium bubblers is the opinion of some. I have used a stick when I feel the need.

" Does the fruit feed it longer w/ out addition? I'm guessing that over ripe would be best?"

Yes, there is no need to add extra fruit. Rotten fruit is always better, more natural sugar in the fruit. I try to make a batch of Bug juice that will be used completely, with none saved. CT, from what I have learned should be used before the brew goes anaerobic, thus the limited brewing time.

" Bug juice say's to use ''good fresh compost'', is that finished but not cured? Still cooking, and taken from the core?"

Finished (all material unrecognizable) is good, cure/matured is better. The reason is because cured will have nitrogen fixing bacteria in the compost, thus you will be growing those bacteria when you make the tea. As it relates to fungi, from what I have learned they do not grow in CT, that is why using bigger bubbles while brewing is a good idea. Fungi are shaken loose from the compost and float in the tea; without good agitation one will not get as much fungi into the brew. Any compost that is still "cooking" should not be used; there may still be pathogens and other bad bacteria/fungi, along with seed seeds still alive in the compost. We donÂt want to be spreading bad things all over the property, thus the suggestion to use cured compost when making compost tea.

" You mentioned that you store yours and use it at 50:1 when it gets older. Are you shaking it daily? What do you use to store it in?"

Again, I try not to have to store CT (with bug juice), better to use it all at once. When I do have to store it I only use it as a "soil drench" for plants only. I do not stir or blend once the tea is in a drum, they are mixed when I add them to whatever I am using to transfer the brew to the garden. When storing, I use one of the drums pictured below:

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Fermented is easier to deal with and store; however, aerated compost tea is faster to make. I am not exactly sure which is more effective due to my short time using BIM. I will admit that I am starting to like BIM more, but it is still too early to tell. I trust this helps; if you have more questions, just askÂ

Blutranes

Great post, blutranes! Thanks for the info. :)

Thanks Ice Worm

Let me make something clear about bug juice. The scientist who wrote that is not taking into consideration one may use a bubbler to create oxygen in the bug juice. This is why I am saying 12-24 hours is enough for brewing; if one is not using a bubbler, a longer time to brew the tea is called for. How long will depend on how the tea smells; sweet aroma and it is good to use as a spray. Sour smell means only as a soil drench. I would say no more that 2 (two) days brewing when making a spray to be on the safe side is my opinion.

Another thing is "why cured compost" when finished will do the job; older is always going to be better. Besides the azobacteria fixing nitrogen from the air (free nitrogen), all the digestive acids used to decompose the organic matter are in the compost. The main acids we focus on are "humic and fulvic" acids. These acids are what the plants use to intake nutrients from the soil. The older compost is, the more humic and fulvic acid is found in the compost. Humic and fulvic acid are what make compost preferred over BIM/EM. Without humic and fulvic acid in the soil BIM/EM will not be as effective. Making compost tea only increases the amount of these acids depending on how much food (nutrients) are in the brew. The organisms are still going to have to digest the food, so there will be plenty of the digestive acids in the tea. This is the main reason people are now trying to market "fulvic acid"; we donÂt have to buy what we can make in our own compost piles, all we have to do is be patient enough to give the microbes time to create them.

Adding Bug Juice or BIM/EM to matured/cured compost is definitely a win-win situation. The key is always going to be the compost usedÂ

Blutranes

Sounds good, I applied my tea to the same compost it was made from. I was able to get about 6'' depth in my 100sft of sfg beds and drenched them. I was wondering about the length of time, he mentions aeration but I think the aquarium bubbler is pretty effective.

This is the orginal bug juice recipe from Dr Steve.

This is what you need in order to make Bug JuiceÂ.

One 5 gallon bucket.
Corn starch
Bread yeast
MaxGro our fishmeal product, or another source of protein. Blood meal will work.
Ripe fruit, such as plums, apples, apricots, peaches, watermelons, peeled bananas or whatever. No citrus.

The Bug Juice Formula

Fruit: The fruits mentioned above contain sucrose, proteins, various vitamins and other nutrients, easily digestible cellulose and pectin. They are the perfect food for soil microorganisms. Pit the fruit, and smash it so it can be more rapidly digested by microorganisms. It should be mush. Add 1 pound or so to the bucket. Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug JuiceÂ.

Cornstarch: Starch is present in all organic matter as a form of storage energy. Bugs need to degrade it in the soil in order to obtain a carbon source for their metabolism. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

MaxGro or blood meal: MaxGro is a heat sterilized fishmeal that has a high nutrient and growth promoting value for plants and microorganisms. It is the protein source for the bugs and the source of biochemical building blocks for the auxin and cytokinin plant growth hormones. Blood meal is a poor substitute, but it is more readily available. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

Yeast: Yeast is a cheap source of B vitamins. It is also a source of cytokinins and protein. Mix two teaspoons of yeast, two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of bread flour to 2 cups of warm water. When the yeast stops foaming, it has consumed most of the sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of corn starch, 1 tablespoon of bread flour and allow the mixture to sit for 2 hours. You are adapting the yeast to the starch. This is important. In order to break down starch, the yeast must be induced to secrete the enzyme alpha amylase. You want to promote this reaction. Most sugars in the soil are in the form of starchÂnot sucrose.

You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil. Bug Juice can be directly applied to plants, trees, grass, whatever. It is disgusting to look at, but it is a powerful organic "nutrient soup" for the soil. And you made it. You are now officially a backyard scientist.

Finished compost does not need to be "cured". Once compost is finished it is ready to use and does not need any further processing. Those just beginning to develop an active Soil Food Web may need to make compost tea and it may help some, however, if there is not enough organic matter in the soil even that will not be a cure all.
"Bug juice" to me would be a mixture of insect pests whizzed in a blender and steeped to release the Nuclear Polyhedris Virus, a means of attemting to control an insect pest invasion.