I would use some variation of the 5:1:1 bark based soil for the annual plantings - the ones you plan on replacing each year, and would use the gritty 1:1:1 mix for the perennial plantings - the ones that will remain in the same soil for more than a season (or two). Al

Any potting mix will usually work, but it is important to remember peat and compost does not last more than one, perhaps two seasons. By then it will be too disintegrated and doesn't hold on to water and nutrients very well. It looses its' structure and can become very dense. Something odd happens when I use peat based stuff more than one or two seasons, it gets too compact and I've had weird issues with nutrient absorption in the plant. The ideal soil for roses in containers is debatable, but will usually contain varying parts of garden compost (leaves, bark, canes, wood chips etc.) sand, a bit of clay, perhaps some peat, composted cow/horse manure (I swear by it), seaweed meal... The idea is to get a good texture which drains, breaths, yet still holds water and nutrients well. With very large containers in which you cannot replace the soil every year it's a good idea to use more sand than you otherwise would do, and a bit of clay. Well composted garden waste (bark, wood chips, cut offs...) work fine as a base, and you can use some peat if you need too (holds water). If there is enough sand, and watering is not a problem, you can get by with replacing the top layer with new compost once a year, and adding some type of longterm fertilizer. It might sound very fuzzy, but if you start with a bag of potting mix you can easily blend in more sand, dry clay powder, and some kind of fertilizer. If the potting mix has a reasonable ph (around 6) you don't have think much about it, but if you make your own from scratch and use pure peat, add enough lime (source of calsium) to get the right ph. A lot of clay can result in higher ph, it depens on the type. If you easily can replace the soil every year you are lucky and usually any good potting mix will do. If you have trouble with containers drying up too quickly, you can add water crystals (the filling in diapers). Roses grown with organic fertilizer tend to live longer in areas with frosty winters, especially compared to roses who get water-soluble stuff like miracle grow. This post was edited by taoseeker on Wed, May 29, 13 at 19:00

Those temps are bad kms2! I have noticed some of my trees in black pots and gritty mix feel like they are baking! Yes, Plumerias grow in the tropics and it's hot BUT they are in the ground. Their roots are cool. Their heads can take full sun all day long but they like their roots cool. Also in most of the tropics there are breezes that help to keep leaf and temps down. I have grown them both ways for years, there isn't a doubt in my mind, they do better planted in the ground. However, let me say this... if they are young, small trees or rooted cuttings, I suggest leaving them in pots until they get bigger and have a well developed root system if you have to move them inside in the winter. In.South Florida or the Keys, put them in the ground and leave them alone and watch them take off. I have a Lutea that was being a real pain. It's a tall and skinny ugly stick that was that way when it was sent to me and it has never bloomed. After I took it out of the ground last October and wintered it in a pot in the garage, this spring I could not get it to do anything. No claws, then claws, claws would shrivel up. I repotted it in gritty along with all the others. couple of months later, still no leaves. I took it out of the mix, a couple 1" tiny brown roots. I was over it. I stuck it in the ground by some that are in pots and told it to root or die, I didn't care which it did. It sat there doing nothing for a couple of weeks and I waited to see if it rotted. Suddenly it took off, leaves all over the place, which means it also is rooting. I gave it some Root Excelerator to help the roots keep growing. No heat mat needed, The ground provides heat without the stress of wild temp swings which occur in pots. I believe bigger trees need to be in the ground and do far better by planting them in the spring, lifting them in the fall if you must due to freezes. Put them in a pot with the soil they were in while planted, put them in garage, greenhouse, whatever you use and leave them alone until spring. On warm days you can mist or give a cup or so of water, but keep them dry. Each year they will get much bigger than they would in pots. I have white plastic trash bags around some of mine in pots that get morning to early afternoon sun at a brutal angle. The heat of those black pots filled with gritty is insane down here in FL. The white bags reflect the heat and make a huge difference! We have had so much rain, day after day, LOTS of rain. I have about 100 in Al's mix and have yet to have 1 rot. In fact I have never seen such explosive root growth and such healthy roots on potted plumies. They are coming out of the bottom, all over the top, even ones that were just rooted in April have filled 1 gallon pots and are read to move up. Roots seem to love the gritty mix but you do need to get those temps down on the pots or the roots near the pots outer sides fry and turn brown. It's easy to test this. Put one where it gets sun, don't turn it. Take it out in a couple of weeks and check. All the roots on the inside that faces the sun will be in bad shape, the ones on the backside, perfect. Once I discovered this I moved most of them so the angle of the sun wasn't as bad, the others that get that intense angle from 9 Am to 2 pm I wrapped with white plastic to reflect the heat. It works,leave the bags loose so the black pot doesn't show through if the bags are thin. My trees look great, growing well, not many blooms yet. They are recuperating from the moves and repots I imagine. I may get mostly roots and growth this year but that's ok. With healthy plants and a big healthy root system, the booms will come in time. My Kapalua has an inflo. Hopefully all this rain won't cause the buds to drop off.

Kristy, Different manufacturers blend all kids of different ingredients into their products labelled "potting soil" and "potting mix." In fact, the same product from a national or international company may have different ingredients in a product with the exact same name or basic label. For example, a potting soil sold under the Scotts label might have composted rice hulls as a primary component if manufactured in Louisiana or Texas, while having composted pine bark fines as a replacement for the rice hull component if manufactured in Georgia. Another thing you should be aware of is that both potting soil and potting mix might be essentially the same ingredients blended in different proportions. The fact that the label says "potting soil" does not automatically mean the product has "dirt" or "topsoil" as one of the ingredients despite what others may say. A "potting soil" may be composed almost entirely of composted bark fines, forest products, composted manure, and other products that have not necessarily ever been a part of a soils layer in the earth. However, most "potting soils" contain some form of "dirt" in the strictest definition of the word, simply because the mix may have some sand, limestone, or vermiculite, all of which are sedimentary in origin. But then again, "potting mixes" also may contain mineral components such as sand, limestone or vermiculite which begs the question of whether they too should be designated as "potting soil" instead. Now ... TOPSOIL Back when the Midwest was native prairie, the topsoil layer may have been a foot or two deep. It took 10 - 12 thousand years after the melting of the glaciers for Nature to form that layer of topsoil. It only took about 150 years of poor farming techniques to wash that layer of topsoil into the Gulf of Mexico. Since it takes about 500 years for Nature to build an inch of true topsoil, nobody is gonna sell it for 2 dollars a bag or 60 bucks a pickup load. If you buy "topsoil" in a bag, or in a truckload from a nursery, I'll bet you're actually getting river bottom dredged silt, bottomland farm soil, or a manufactured product containing sand, silt, and a variety of composted leaves, garbage, sewer sludge, etc. Read the label ... if there is one. So, back to Mix vs. Soil ... what are you getting in the bags labelled "potting mix" and "potting soil?" READ THE LABEL! If the product is packaged by a reputable manufacturer, the label will always have the components listed along with some other information that should give you a good idea what the product is intended for. Bottom line: If you're starting seeds, rooting cuttings, growing plants indoors or that require a sterile, soilless medium ... make sure the label informs you that the mix meets your needs, is comprised of sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite, and other products and is sterile. If you're filling containers to grow tomatoes outdoors, and the transplants are well beyond the stage where dampening off is an issue ... don't worry whether it says "potting soil" or "potting mix." Just read the label and pick a product that will give you a nice, loose-textured, well drained growing medium capable of retaining moisture but not becoming too soggy and not drying out to quickly. Bill