Replies by the paragraphs: It sounds like you are pulling air vs solid fuel and need some fine adjustments. Are all fuel lines possibly new or very flexible, strong (from a good pull and very snug to ensure they are air-tight on ext and int fittings? You are giving this Monster a good effort that I feel will pay off soon. Hang In There!! # 3. This saw does not have a primer bulb. I have read the Walbro general small carburator theory site and vaguely understand what is going on. Most importantly I know that the choke is imployed initially not just for cold but to bring fuel to the carb. On my smaller saws, with primer bulbs, I have always successfully pushed the chokes to half off after the first indication of firing and gotten the saws to start and run immediately. I am not sure that this is what I should expect with this more powerfull non primer bulb saw. Once you have fuel or indications, you back off on the choke as needed. If I prime the engine manually by spraying 2-cycle mixed gas (from the tank) or carb cleaner in the carb or spark plug hole I will usually not choke the engine on an 85 + degree day or as needed. #4. I have used erratic starting sequences that have occasionally given me a half to two or 3 second run. My high and low air adjustment screws are set to one turn out as directed in my manual. There is an idle screw that I don't understand. It appears that it presses on some pin on the carb, but I don't understand what it does or where it should be set. In any case, for starting I have the fast idle device activated. Did you pull the screws and run fine wire, carb cleaner and air through them to verify they are clean and all passages/ports and under the fuel screen? You might try 1.25 turn out initially on the adj screws to see it the results will change then fine tune. The idle screw is simply a stop on the throttle to keep it from dropping to low and stalling. Turn it in to help you to keep it alive in this situation and back off later. # 5. I was having little or no success until I recalled that vacuum in the gas tank might depress fuel flow and I loosened or removed the cap. I also remembered that one old saw I had for years, often needed a clean or new spark plug to fire it up and I replaced the old plug too, although the old one looked clean, if a little wet (which would make one wonder about whether fuel starvation was an actual issue). These were good troubleshooting steps and you saw these were "probably" not issues. # 6. Anyway with those changes (whether effective or not), I was able to get the saw to rev up strongly several times. I believe I was able to get my hand smoothly around the throttle trigger where I would expect to be able to control the idle, but it always died on me after two seconds or less. Then it would take several (or many) pulls and manipulations of choke setting or whatever until it would fire again. Good sign and it would have been good to have had 1-2 oz of carb cleaner in the fresh fuel at this point. Remember to run the idle screw up and it will help in this case. The excessive choking and Etc w/o firing is what is leading me to feel you are possibly pulling air vs fuel. # 7. One last issue. The rope nut adjustment is a little odd. After loosening it a little, it pulled smoothly and then after many unsuccessful start attempts, the rope begain to tighten up again. I assumed that I was going to have to remove the housing and lock the nut down somehow because it was probably just tightening back up. But in a few hours, and again next day, I would find that the rope pulled easily again for 10 or 20 pulls before again tightening up. Did you see any signs of locking Chem or Mech, a worn lock nut or etc was used to lock the nut? I am not familiar with this direct saw. Can you post a pic of the carb area of the saw? We'll call the Pros, Ewalk and Etc on their direct lines (LOL) if you are not going soon.

The 250 is a decent saw. Where I am coming from is that I had a 250 for a little over a year as my only saw. I have since sold that to a neighbor and now have have the 026 for my general use saw, a Stihl 200T for climbing and the Makita 6401/Dolmar 6400 for larger diameter. The 250 does well. You can run that saw pretty hard for what it is. You can climb with although it is a little bit heavy for extended climbing. You can put an 18" on it but it will definitely perform better with a 16". I'd strongly vote for you getting a saw larger than the 40-50cc you are looing at. Something in the 60-70cc range. I say this because you have your Wild Thing that is not the greatest saw but it is running and cutting well. Why pay money to buy something the same size but better built and stronger unless you have to get rid of the other one? Keep that Wild Thang and get a saw that will compliment it. And I will guarantee that if you get a 60-70cc Pro or at least mid-range Husky, Stihl or Dolmar, you may find yourself barely ever picking up the Wild Thang except when you need the lighter weight, when your bigger one is down or if a buddy is over helping you cut. I am not well versed in the Husky's but I know the 1xx series are not Husky made, I think they are Poulan made. The 3xx series I think is there pro grade, especially XP models. I also think the 4xx series is there mid range. The 346 I think is equivalent to the Stihl 260. By many accounts the 346 is a better saw. On the other hand, the 260 design has been around for 20 years and is tried and true. You can get Husky parts mailorder. I assume shop manuals are available. The mid-range Stihl's are very reliable. They are also heavy and harder to work on. Shop manuals are not easily available for Stihl. You can find them though if you know where to look. Although I don't know if it would be harder to get a manual for a mid-range saw, I just don't see the calls for them and therefore don't know if they are as readily available. Parts are only through Stihl dealers, but they are plentiful enough for most. That 360 is a very, very nice saw. The 440 is a great saw too. The Dolmar/Makita line is not a widely known brand but they really rock. Their biggest downfall is dealer support. Their pro models are xx00/xx01. You can get parts mail order. There are a couple dealers that are great to work with for them. With your engine experience, you're a great candidate for a used saw. In person is better than over the net for these purchases as you know. But if your model is harder to find, you may have to do the net thing. There are some specific tools you will have to either make or buy if you want to be able to do full engine breakdowns. As far as I know, some of the tools are chainsaw and even manufacturer specific. If you get a chance, rent a chainsaw from your HD. I have not heard of there being anything but Makita 6401s, but make sure you get one of those. Try that sucker out and see if you can live without a saw that size :). Post a way I can send you a note offline.

Lok: Yeah the 361 is very lean on starting . I re-jetted mine . As for the Older Stihl Models and Ethanol Fuel , get some Star*tron from Walmart . I was advised of it for consideration from a fellow forum member and it has worked very well within my Daughters Snowblower which is ethanol fueled . I also bought some for my Diesel and have found increased fuel savings . If all is fine with Compression and the Ignition Modules a simple fuel circuit cleaning should solve your issues with the older saws .

Believe its TANAKA (who offers a 7 yr consumer warranty.) Its the best value out there if you find one at close out H Depot. I got 2 for 129 each!! and are 299+ when rebadged as Tanaka or Hitachi. BAD ASS commercial saw! UNREAL chain speed, awesome full chisel rofessional hard chain (stays sharp, cuts 25+ cords wood before sharpening (I keep it out of the dirt and clean!! (to achieve this,cutting red oak and other hickory etc hard woods in Alabama for my wood heated home., of course). Don't use the Husky Rancher 55 anymore as its not NEARLY as good a saw cutting and vibration etc. These FOOLS dogging it NEVER ran one or any other good, MODERN Jap saw...Prolly iin the "STIHL" vs Mc Culloch or some such dumbass antique stance. TRY it THEN blab about it!! I also own Tanaka exclusively, now for 7 yr warranty and quality. Have NEVER used warranty yet, even on my 14"limbing/pruning saw thats used for limbing etc, and 70+% of my firewood cutting! 8 lbs! doesn't tire me out!! Saws don't have to kick our ASSES anymore!!! IF you are smart and research your purchase!