I'm lost !! Did you have pressure last season ?? ... or is this a new system being tested for the first time ? If this is a new system it may be a design problem but if it worked brfore it should work now ... A bad electric valve could be a reason you are not getting pressure ... very sneaky they do not open all the way sometimes or the solenoid is rusted and does not open and flow enough ... open the electric valve manually .. What happens ? .. make sure all your manual valves are all the way open ... Double Check. Any leaks or broken heads ?? Check carefully could be a broken nipple somewhere. "It's a bad design .Also the impact rotor is higher than the valve(i don't know if this is allowed)" Sounds like a goofy design to me ... the rotor should not factor in much ... in theory you can subtract about .5 psi per foot of elevation above your supply source source ... the hose connection is not a good idea .. What flow do you need and how long a run ? "The wire connection is connected with duct tape and it has been raining,the controller is not working for the valve ,so i tested it manually. " Sounds messy .. get some water tight connectors at your irrigation supplier. Check fuses .. Better yet design a better system ? Good Day ..

Kris, you can "grow tomatoes in the fall." But what that really means is "harvest them in the fall." If you plant an strongly indeterminate (means that it never stops growing and flowering) variety, then it's possible to simply nurse it through the heat and drought of July, and it will pick up flowering and fruiting when temps become more reasonable. But beware, if the plant gets too beat up, the fall harvest may not be all that good. The other option is to put out transplants in June. I say "June" because my climate turns cold sooner than Dawns. For me, since I start from seed, that means I start my seed early in May or late in April. Last year I direct seeded some Roma VF tomatoes on June 9. But all I got was some green tomatoes by frost. I have two varieties which I really like for fall tomatoes. One is Tuxhorn's Yellow & Red, which is like Hawaiian Pineaple (yellow beefsteak with red streaking). This one simply fruits more reliably in the fall. But the green tomatoes are WAY better than any other we've tried. The other variety is called Polish Pastel, which is a yellow and red streaked/pastel plum shaped but somewhat hollow fruited tomato. I bet it could be used for stuffing. Anyway Polish Pastel is an extremely resilient variety which can survive the heat and drought and BURST into flower as soon as temps become reasonable. This one is a heavy producer in the fall. Neither of these tomatoes is available commercially :( George

To the neophyte attempting to sort it all out via the Internet searching designing a water system can be a very confusing mess of un-related numbers. The well driller tells you how many gallons per minute your well will produce, while the plumber tells you how many "Fixture units" your water supply must be capable of delivering, and your septic tank installer needs to know how many bedrooms you have. It doesnt take long until you sit back and scream, "There must be some semblance to this madness!" Let us try to put this all in perspective. To the well driller your well is capable of producing 2gpm and allowing that there are 1440 minutes in a day, your well is then capable of producing 2880gal/day but he/she has no way of knowing what your actual volume of demand will be on a daily basis. The plumber must design a water distribution system that is capable of supplying every fixture in the house, simultaneously at full flow without an appreciable loss of volume or pressure. In order to do so the plumbing codes provide us a table, which lists every type of fixture, which may be present in the house, and it assigns a "Fixture Unit" value to the fixtures. We then make a list of all the fixtures and their respective FU value to determine the total number of FUÂs, which may be required in the worst-case scenario. Once we have a FU value we then consult another table in the code, which will tell us what size of pipe we must use for the water main, and the individual branch lines throughout the structure based upon the fixture unit value and the overall length of the pipe. The problem here is that while we may be able to tell you the maximum number of gallons per minute you might consume, we have no way of knowing the actually frequency of fixture use. This is especially true in high end construction where every bedroom may have an adjoining bathroom, plus a common bathroom and a couple 1/2baths, not to mention two or three sinks in the kitchen, yet the structure is occupied by a family of four and two or more bathrooms may go totally unused for weeks at a time. On the other hand, your septic tank installer must provide a holding tank that is capable of holding the total discharge for a 3-day period. In order to do so, they need some means of getting a real world estimation of the daily consumption therefore they use a formula that is based upon the number of bedrooms in the structure. While the actual number of occupants in a structure may vary from week to week, on a statistical average it has been determined that a structure will have 2 people in the master bedroom and an average of one person for each additional bedroom. Consumption is then based upon a statistical average of 100gal/day per person thus a 3BR house would have 2ppl in the MB + 2 additional BRÂs @ 1 person = 4ppl x 100 gal = 400gal/day. As you can see, the bedroom method will give you a good statistical average of normal use consumption for the house. We would then need to estimate any additional consumption or consumption that may be above and beyond normal family functions, such as a irrigating the lawn & garden or sideline business of detailing cars or doing laundry for other people. When computing irrigation requirements we find that most people tend to irrigate to excess. Typically the type of grass, shrubs, flowers or plants that grow well in your region will thrive with your average rainfall, however rainfall can be very erratic. The National Oceanographic & Atmospheric Agency conducts extensive monitoring of rainfall and they publish graphs of average temperature and rainfall by month for all regions. (You can run a search online for NOAA & temperature and rainfall by month for (insert the name of your community) and you should be able to find a graph for your area. By example, I recently had to work up some figures for a house in central Tennessee and the NOAA report stated their average rainfall for mid summer was 5" per month. This would then equate to 5" / 30 days = 0.16" of rainfall per day. (We would then round over to the nearest 1/10" or in this case .2" of rainfall per day.) One square foot watered to a depth of 1" would equal 144cu.in of water and water occupies 231cu.in per gallon so 1" of irrigation would then be 0.62gallon per square foot of area to be irrigated or 0.062gal for each 1/10 of an inch of rainfall. If you then wanted to simulate the natural .2" of daily rainfall you could allow 0.062gal x 2 = 0.124gal per square foot of garden space. By example, let us assume a garden plot that is 20Â x 40Â. A garden plot 20Â x 40Â = 800sq.ft and for 2/10 of an inch of rainfall we would need 800sq.ft x 0.062gallons = 49.6gallons. An outside hose bibb is rated at 5gal/min so a daily ten-minute watering from the hose evenly distributed over the garden would be sufficient. Now let us examine the idea of constructing a water tower. One PSI will raise a vertical column of water 2.304ft therefore to construct a tower that will provide the required 35psi the bottom of the storage tank on the top of the tower would need to be 80.64ft. In addition, the local mechanical codes would require that the structure be capable of sustaining a constant wind load in excess of 60mph. (would be considerable higher in a region subject to hurricane force winds). The bottom line, it is very highly unlikely that your local zoning laws would permit such a structure on your lawn.

1. As long as the irrigation lines are not attached to an active solenoid valve, you can leave the lines in the ground or rip them out. If you do have an active solenoid valve and it also provides water to parts of the yard where you do want irrigation, then you could cap the lines, which is very simple to do. Basically, what you do with the irrigation lines is typically independent of the water to the house, so you don't have to worry about messing up your house plumbing by modifying the stuff out in the yard. 2. The issue with the backflow valve depends on the setup. At my house the water from the meter goes to a tee and one branch goes to a backflow valve for the irrigation and the other goes to a backflow valve for the water in the house. In the winter, when I am not using the irrigation, I simply can shut off the backflow valve for the irrigation branch. As long as your backflow valve does not also control the water to the house, you can shut off that valve. Often, if you have a setup like mine, the backflow valve for the irrigation line is in a box out in the yard, and the backflow valve protecting the water for the house is inside where the line first enters the house. Have you looked for a second backflow valve?