Oil to gas mix ratio, beating the dead horse again!!
16 years ago
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- 16 years ago
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Help! Horse & chicken feed
Comments (15)BrendaSue, I'm glad to hear that things seem to be okay. To answer your question, you do not need a special thermometer to check their temp. Just a regular thermometer--either digital or the old fashioned mercury kind is fine. If you use a mercury thermometer, it is wise to attach a 6 inch string to the end with the hot glue gun, and attach a clothespin to the string. To check their temp, lubricate the thermometer (I spit on it, but you can use KY Jelly or vaseline or mineral oil if you prefer), then insert it into the horse's rectum. If using the mercury thermometer, insert it until there's only about 1.5 inches sticking out, then clip the clothespin to the horse's tail and wait 3 minutes, remove, and read. If using digital thermometer, insert it about 2 inches into the rectum, and you have to stand back there and hold it until it beeps the ready signal. Don't use the mercury thermometer unless you have the string attached--they have been known to "disappear" into the horse's rectum--NOT a good thing! Normal temp for an adult horse is 98-100. I would consider 101 to be a mild fever in an adult, and 102 or above is a fever for sure. In a yearling, 101 would be pretty normal, and anything above 102 would be a fever. In a foal, normal is 100-102, and above 103 would be a fever. Horses are like people, and some horses "run hot" all the time, so if you really want to be in tune with your horses, check their temps several times on different occasions to get a baseline normal. If you want to check their pulse, you can feel in the groove under their jaw--this can be a bit tricky and it's good if you can get somebody to show you how. Average pulse for an adult is 30-40 beats per minute, but for a younger horse, it is higher (yearling is 50-60). To answer another comment you made, bellyache is the same as colic (just like a baby). Colic can be caused by gas, constipation, a twist in the gut, diarrhea, spasmodic colon, etc. And just like a baby, a horse can't tell you where or why it hurts, and that's what makes it so complicated. To be honest, in my opinion, I would have worried more about founder than colic with this episode. Somebody commented that it takes more than one time in the grain bag to get foundered, and I disagree with that statement (not trying to start a fight here, I just disagree). You stated that their hooves were warm, and that is a symptom that a horse is trying to founder. Horses' hooves are usually cool to slightly warm, even in the summer they stay pretty cool. It's a good idea once things get back to normal to go feel their hooves and see what normal feels like (again, some horses' hooves are normally warmer than others). If I were you, I'd continue to keep an eye out for signs of founder. If you see them standing with their front feet "parked out" in front of them--stretching them out so their feet are more under their head than under their shoulder--that is a sign that they are in pain from founder. You can look up founder (or laminitis as it is also called) on Google and see the causes and symptoms. Glad to hear that things sound okay. I heard a quote once that said "Horses spend 99% of their time trying to kill themselves, and we spend 99% of our time trying to prevent them from succeeding." Keep us posted!...See MoreWhat mix are you old LB users using and what type of oil?
Comments (42)Walt, what on God's green earth is that thing? As far as oil ratios, everybody should use what they feel is the best. I personally don't like the idea of running a high mix oil at 100:1 when the folks who built my orphaned 2-stroke recommend 32:1. Now I know some of you guys use these synthetics with good results. It's just not for me. Additive packages and whatever else, I prefer to follow engine manufacturer's recommendations and use LB oil. I actually run mine with a little extra oil to be on the safe side, just in case. However, this is what I do because it works for me. I'll always suggest going with spec or richer, but if something else works for another person that's fine too. When you ask people for their opinions on this forum, that's exactly what you will get. Silly thing to argue about really....See Morehow much is a used (beat?) Stihl 026 worth?
Comments (11)Tiny: Fresh Paint does not make the saw , don't fret the small stuff. Have the Saw demonstrate it's worth . It should start with 3-5 Pulls , fresh Properly mixed Fuel is imperative . I would 1st pull and check the plug this will give you a good indication of the state of condition of the saw's engine. It should be medium to light brown coloration . Any shiny metallic flecks (engine worn) . If you have a tester pull it over 4-5 times with the power switch off to get a accurate compression test. Should be in the 130 -160 Range . If not the running engine is your only real valid test . Also ensure the Oil Reservoir is full and ensure the chain is adjusted and rolls true and free . With a Roller tip bar 3/16 slack at mid bar before saw begins to lift . Solid nose bar slightly looser . Again if it fires and idles and runs up to wide open throttle without any issues and you have good compression it would be a great deal for the asking price since a electric sharpener is in the $100.00 range itself without additional tools . A new Bar and chain will be in the $30.00 $50.00 (Oregon) Range . There should be Oil fling off the Chain within a minute of running the saw at full throttle . Let us know what you find before you drop the $$$ If your serious , if it fails any of the above steer clear unless your maintenance friendly and get a reduced price . Buying a used saw is always Russian Roulette , but a little knowledge to what to look for can give you the advantage of knowing when to Hold-em and when to fold-em lol ....See MoreWheel Horse Ramblings
Comments (85)Toro bought Wheel Horse in 1986, but the Toro name didn't appear on the products until 1990. The old Wheel Horse plant in South Bend, IN was sold early on, I don't know the exact year but in the late 80's I believe. I think the story on the Classic is simply that Toro has been hugely successful with ZTR's (which Wheel Horse actually had in the 80's, by the way) while their traditional lawn and garden tractor sales have been slipping. They are also losing traditional consumer oriented dealers, as many of the ZTR sales seem to be from commercial oriented dealers who may have never even heard of a Wheel Horse tractor. So I guess the bottom line is they have made a business decision to just about kill off all their traditional lawn and garden tractors. While I can't agree with the decision, it's not mine to make, and I have to say a big "Thanks!" to Toro for keeping the traditional Wheel Horse alive for as long as they have. I will add that Toro has a long tradition of making all sorts of turf care related products, and they seem to have always adjusted and altered their product mix to the demands in the market they sought to serve. Perhaps because their specialty early on was in the commercial side, many people do not realize this company goes back to before 1920. Turf care has always been their business, not agriculture, and I think Toro was a bit uncomfortable with even touching into agriculture with their garden tractors. Why else would they have designed the otherwise very capable 5xi series with no provisions for a rear pto, no added hydraulics, and no 3-point hitch? Various ag type attachments that WH had offered were also dropped. There's no question that modern design l&g tractors have more engineering in them today. Engineers are good at figuring out the least material that will perform the intended function, and safety factors today are obviously not the round 2 or 3 times like they used to be. So today's l&g transaxle, for instance, is built to a relatively tight tolerance for HP and torque, and is expected to handle the loads for "X" number of cycles. It's kind of like "battery science" - if a Sears battery claims a "4 year" life, by golly that's usually pretty close to what you'll get out of it. On the other hand, the Wheel Horse uni-drive was designed in the days when iron was cheap, things weren't supposed to break, and owners of garden tractors expected them to not only mow grass, but to really be more of a small tractor and not just a lawn mower they could ride on. The first tractors to use the modern style, 2-piece cast housing WH uni-drive transaxle were the 5.5HP 551 and the 7HP 701 in 1961. While the design had changes and revisions over the years, most major dimensions did not change, and the fact that some of the later 6-speed transaxles are handling 50+ HP in competitive pullers is a sure sign that they were built to last a lifetime in the intended application. Todays thin-wall close-fit aluminum castings and powdered metal gears may be very cost efficient and are probably well suited for most of today's purchasers, but they are nothing like the old cast iron gearboxes that Wheel Horse, Cub Cadet, Bolens, Peerless, and others used to make. I can't do much about today's realities in terms of lawn tractor purchasers, economies of scale (the box store "make 'em cheap and sell millions" syndrome), and manufacturing economics, but I'll sure do what I can to preserve the remaining thousands and thousands of Wheel Horses that are out there! Ed...See More- 16 years ago
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