1. The 45 PSI mentioned is what the cut-off is set at on the pressure switch. Boost this to at least 60 and make the cut-in 20PSI lower than that. With the system de-pressurized (off and drained of water), verify that your tanks have 2 PSI LESS than the cut-in pressure. Add air with compressor or bleed some off, as case may be. Tanks may be connected anywhere on mainline - closer to well is better for convenience/service. Install a glycerine-filled pressure gauge on the mainline near the tanks to help you check the settings. 2. Don't reduce to 1" for your mainline - it must match the output of your well. I'm going to assume it's a 5HP/90GPM, so you should be using 2-1/2" for a main. 3. The higher pressure isn't to be able to use more heads, it's so that the heads will actually pop-up and turn. High pressure can make up for low volume; the same is not true vice-versa. 4. Balance your zones to +/- 10% of flow (total GPM of heads on each zone) and adjust your pressure switch so that the pump will stay ON even when on your smallest zone. Pump should be either running or off, not cyclcling on-and-off. 5. Be sure to install pressure-relief device in case pressure switch fails - believe me, it happens. 6. I'd suggest ONE larger tank as opposed to the two small ones - ask your local pump supplier ot electric motor shop to size one out for you. BK

For most systems, capping off some sprinkler heads will make the operating water pressure higher. The right way to build a system is with a pressure regulator before the valves, but that can add almost $100 of cost so most people skip it. Without the regulator, pressure will depend on the flow. Most water mains exceed the recommended water pressure for sprinklers. Mine comes in at about 110 PSI. Sprinklers like to run around 40 or 25 PSI. The reason it usually works is there are so many heads on a zone that the valve restricts the flow and brings the pressure down. When you cap off some heads, the pressure goes up. Many valves have a flow control option and if yours does, you can adjust it to bring the pressure back down to the optimal level. If your valve does not have flow control, you can implement your own with a gate valve in series with your sprinkler valve.

Could be. Remove the head and turn on that zone -- see if you have good flow at the head in question. Also look for broken/leaking fittings on the pipe, or even the pipe itself. Any wet areas creep up? I had a smiliar incident... ended up being some gravel in the line at the head

Thanks for all the replies. I'm having trouble finding sprinkler heads with a spray distance that will work. I have seen that there are converters that will change your standard sprinkler head into a drip system. These seem like a cheap and easy solution to the problem, but how well do they work? Do they work with any standard irrigation system? My system allows for a maximum of 99 minutes per station. Will that be enough time for a thorough watering under a drip system? Or would I be better off just hooking it up to a hose (that would only work for one of the beds)? By the way, the heads are up against the house.