Old thread. I re-engined my 70's vintage Horse tiller. Did the belts like all the videos and what a hassle working by myself. Got a different engine and did the belts differently. Since everything had been cleaned and greased, parts slid together. Thought I would pass along this hint. After bolting the mounting casting to the engine, I took the engine pulley, placed it on top the transmission pulley with both belts loosely installed. Then took the engine and casting, lined up the engine shaft to the pulley (I set keyway up, but it doesn't matter, just so they are the same), slid the shaft into the pulley about half way, popped the belts under the guide pins, and inserted shaft the rest of the way. Installed both posts. Then installed crankshaft screw and washer. Maybe 15 minutes at most. Two people would make getting the belts under the guide pins easier.

Lary, These are forward rotating tine machines, not counter-rotating tines. All of the old Horses were this way. Bill, The number you posted is just a casting number, not the serial number. Look below the T-handle and clean all the gunk off to find a serial number. Parts that you need are readily available from a bunch of sources, including MTD (who took over for Troy Bilt) Jenice, If you have the 6HP Tecumseh engine, you dont have all of the model number. What you posted is the "spec" number. Your model number is most likely HH60. Use that model number, and you shouldnt have any problem finding the carb kit. The recoil starter may be a little bit harder to find.

Horse III (Horse three) built between Oct and Nov 1984 by MTD. C&P for a PDF format manual. Scroll down until you find for the engine make you have. Manuals for HORSE III & IV/1 BELT/RUBBER DISC/4 SPEED.. http://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/DisplayOwnersManualList?storeId=10001&catalogId=14102&langId=-1&modelNumber=Horse&serialNumber

tiller John, I tried it my self: I figure the shaft with the O-rings has to be removed first. I drove the spiral pin out of the eccentric lever on the outside of the casing. My wheel puller would not budge the lever, so I wedged a sharp angled, yet very wide and flat chisel between the casing and lever and it slipped off. The shaft with the square piece of steel on the end and O-rings now exited toward the inside of the trans casing. Now I was able to get the clutch fork shaft off by first unscrewing the pipe plug located just below the eccentric shaft on the outside of the casing. The clutch fork shaft is a smaller diameter that the threads so it simply exits to the ouside of the casing. You may have to grab the shift fork and angle it slightly so as to get a grab on the slippery shaft that it slides on and you will be able to coax it through the threaded hole that the pipe plug had occupied toward the outside of the casing. It exits throught the casing wall to the outside of the casing.