A few years ago I did some research when I was considering a walk behind edger and I read that they work best when you have a solid surface to roll them on, such as a walkway or driveway. Even if it were self-propelled, you need a fairly level surface for it to roll on or it's going to be difficult to keep a straight edge. I ended up with a hand-held Stihl edger and it worked well along the concrete edges but out in the yard it took some extra skill. Our yard is nearly 1 1/2 acres and all the beds and outer perimeter are edged. We now pay for a partial yard care service and they edge the yard every 2 weeks during the summer months and the guy just uses a hand held weedeater. Not sure if it's a blade or string but it doesn't take him long to do it. Once you've established the edge you want, you shouldn't see any increase in the size of the bed. The only thing you're cutting when you edge are the blades of grass that have grown over your set boundary so you should always be cutting the same line each time. The type grass you have will determine how often it needs cutting. You may get more input on which tools are best if you post your question over at the Tool Shed or the Lawn Care forums. Here is a link that might be useful: tool shed

The gravel wont damage the edger or the blade, but you will tend to throw rocks. On the one hand a reverse rotation blade like Craftsman and a few others make has the advantage of throwing any debris or rocks away from the operator. On the other hand, nothing slows or knocks down the rocks, which can be dangerous to others within about 50 feet (and to cars and windows). I would recommend a rear throw edger with a large blade guard and an addition rubber flap to control throwing rocks. I currently use a Little Wonder 6032 in Jersey, and before that in Southern California had a succession of McLane's and Power Trims. It think Little Wonder and Power Trim are among the best, but both are pricey (starting $500 and running to about $900 for commercial model with Honda GX engine). McLane is probably better value for the money (for home use) and can be had for about $350 to $400. Make sure you get the 801 or 101 models. The 137 is only slightly less expensive, but has been "dumbed down" considerably, and I cannot recommend. Lastly, I would avoid either the edgers with vertical shaft engines and twisted drive belts. IMHO they are junk. Also, the little 2 cycle edgers with the tiny 1hp engines are little more than toys. Stay away.

1) Make sure you have the proper amount and grade of oil in the crankcase. 2) Drain the gas tank of any oil, then add about a pint of gasoline to the tank and slosh it around. Then drain that oily gas. 3) Add new, fresh gasoline to about 1/2 tank. 4) Remove the spark plug and clean with fresh gasoline. Check the gap, which should be .025" to .028". Reinstall. 5) Try to start the machine. Expect a substantial about of smoke if it starts. Let it run at approximately 1/2 throttle until it smooths out and stops smoking. 6) Recheck oil level in crankcase, add as needed, and you should be good to go. If you cannot get engine started with above procedure, you are going to have to take it to a shop, so they can tear apart and clean the carburetor. No offense intended, but I don't think you or your husband have the skill set to do carburetor repair.

Hi harlanfamily143, I just inherited a McLane 3.5 hp Edger with a Tecumseh engine. I can't get it started. I drained the carb as much as I can. I filled it with new gas, pumped the primer. It ran for about 5 sec on choke. There may still be some old gas as it sat for a few years. I believe its a 4-stroke because it has a separate oil fill. Would yours be the same unit by chance? Do you have a manual? Any suggestions?