That crazy '12-13 oz' is some kind of typo. I've seen it a number of times relative to the GCV 160 and GSV 190, and just like you posted they say in the same sentence that it holds 18.56 oz (something like that, as if we can measure oil to the hundredth of an ounce). I found that if you put in 20 oz which is the normal lawn mower oil change, the level is a tad high and it will leak oil from the governor rod where it enters the crankcase. So, I started measuring 19 oz. and it comes out good on the stick. Definitely go by the stick, but the question is on the pressure washer, does the engine have a long engine oil fill tube, and does it require you to not screw the cap in to check the oil? On Honda mowers you do not screw the cap in when checking the oil. All other engines I know of have you screw the cap down to check it. How did you get the oil out of it to change? Did you tip over the pressure washer on it's side so the oil came out of the fill tube as on mower engines?

I double check the amount of oil. On my GX31 engine which is the same engine as yours, I test and put a mark on the bottle. The bottle is a 3.2oz bottle. I actually went to OSH today and look at where they fill 3.2oz and the mark I made to fill to the right level is no where close to the original level of the 3.2 oz. You better put the engine FLAT horizontal and fill oil until the level reach the top thread without over flow....Just touch the top thread only. From my guess, it is only like 2.8 to 2.9 oz to the required level. 0.2 oz is a lot if it is overfilled. My engine always burn clean and no excess oil in the air filter.

So...I figured out where the short 4" hose goes. It fits into the back of the air cleaner. When the cord is pulled to start the engine, oil comes out of that hose and into the air cleaner sponge. My problem is that the engine never starts on the first pull, nor the second or third or ... you get it, so the air cleaner sponge fills with oil and overflows. Is there a fix for this problem?

Tips when rebuilding Honda Mini FG100 Transmission: Before order any parts do the follow: - The brass drive gear is connected to the tines axle by spines only. So be careful how much you hammer on the axle to try and get rusted on tines off, it possible to drive the gear off the axle. - The primary reason this transmission fails is water intrusion. While low or old grease(it separates) doesn't help and will cause the transmission to fail after a long period time, it's normally allowing water into the transmission which can rust the worm gear and thrust bearing that really speeds up the failure. - Thoroughly clean and degrease worm gear. Look for rust and pitting, this is what normally kills the brass drive gear. Remember brass is softer metal then steel. If any rust or pitting forms on the steel worm gear it will just grind down brass drive gear. The rust and pitting acts like sand paper. - If worm gear has any rust or pitting this must be clean up and smooth out, otherwise a new brass drive will just get grind down again. A 1x30" bench belt sander works good for this, the last sanding should be with a 300 or 400 grit sanding belt. - Soak and clean the thrust bearing with a penetrating oil. Make sure the roller bearing and washer are turning and look fine, no pitting. The thrust bearing is just above the worm gear and below the brass bushing. - Clean drive shaft for worm gear to remove any rust. Any bench grinder and wire brush works great for this. - Check all bushings for excessive play and wear. - Thoroughly clean and check the tines axle rubber seals and worm drive top seal for wear. All to often water intrusion is caused by the tiller being left out in the rain and water run pass the top seal which result in rusting on the up end of the worm drive shaft, thrust bearing, and worm gear. - Check the top bearing for play and wear. It at the top of the drive shaft for the worm gear under the top seal and is a sealed bearing. - If the worm gear, thrust bearing, top and bottom worm gear bushings, top sealed bearing, or top seal are too worn or damage you have to purchase the full transmission rebuild kit($$$$$) - However if whole worm drive assembly looks good, maybe after a little sanding of the worm gear, then only the tiller tine shaft assemble is need to replace the damage brass drive gear. Double check the bushing, thrust washers and rubber seals for your tine shaft, if this look fine the Earthquake 4651 replacement tiller tine shaft assembly might work and save you some money but I have not tested this. Others say it the same tine shaft. However if you have any concerns about this or the bushing and seals Pete's Small Engine tine shaft kit includes the axle with drive gear, bushings, and seals. Modification: - I replaced the top grease fill bolt with a M6 grease nipple. This was the prefect thread size to make a solid connection. I did have to drill the existing thread out which do not match any standard nipple thread size to tap for M6 thread. I recommend doing this on a drill press so you can drill the hole a little offset so the nipple will not hit the tines axle dirt cap. - The reason for installing the grease nipple is to allow easy greasing but also to allow the transmission to be pressure fill with grease to avoid creating any air pocket for water accumulate if it finds it way into the transmission. I use the bottom grease fill bolt to check for water. Assembly: - I recommend popping the seal off the top drive bearing, removing the old grease with an air gun, and then packing in new grease with your fingers. Once done you should be able press the seal back into place. - Use thin gasket material not form a gasket silicone to seal transmission housing. Using form a gasket silicone with cause the tines axle to bind against the axle bushing and thrust washers, it's just not thick enough. - I recommend using Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease, it's extremely water resistance and extreme pressure grease. Very low oil separation rate. I have found tubes of Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease that over 20 years ago and the oil still has not started to separate.