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Rebuilding Honda FG100 Tiller Transmission: Any success?

19 years ago

I had the problem with my tiller, engine runs, but the tines don't rotate. I found out it is the transmission. As Honda demands us to buy the whole thing, did anybody try to rebuild it?

George

Comments (120)

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Story: FG100A Transmission not working.
    Symptom: Engine is running, twine is moving but no power at all. Seems to be something missing!!!!
    What I did:
    a) Though it might be a Clutch issue, so I adjusted the clutch, no remedy.
    b) Took it to a local yard equipment service shop. Couldnt figure out what happened. Instead did a unnecessary servicing and charged 35$
    c) Then I found this forum. Read carefully through the post and was kind of sure that the transmission is the issue.
    d) Since I havenÂt done any such thing before, without taking the risk, took it a countryside yard/farm equipment center. They charged 18.75$ to estimate that the transmission had to be replaced and the total charges are 240$.
    e) This is where my alter ego came alive and I said to myself, "Dude, time to grab the bull by the horn"
    f) 1 hr: Took the entire transmission apart. Discovered the "Worm wheel" was 80% teeth less. Gotcha!!! Also Noticed that the Grease inside was dry. So part of my problem could be my negligence of greasing it properly.
    g) While I open the transmission I have cleaned all the existing parts that I am going to re-use, I cleaned all of then with Gas/Petrol. Poured Petrol in a container and soaked the parts first and used a nylon brush to scrub of the dried up grease.
    h) Went to PeteÂs Small Engine Site, and printed the Transmission Parts Breakdown Picture.
    i) Ordered the following:
    a. 861585-HO Honda FG100 Tine Shaft with Worm Wheel Qty 1
    b. 861583-HO Honda FG100 Thrust Washer Qty 2
    c. 861969-HO Honda FG100 Felt Seal Qty 2
    d. 861937-HO Honda Tiller Seal Qty 2
    e. 705-856-ST Extreme Pressure Grease Qty 1
    Total : with shipping: 64.17$
    j) Ordered on Thursday night, Parts arrived Monday morning.
    k) Got excited and put it back together. After doing that, greased it. The grease container head/sprout has some threading. So be careful. Just cut the very end/tip of the sprout. Once done, you can screw the sprout in the Grease Fill hole. Make sure the Upper Air Vent Screw is open. And Squeeze it in !!!!! SqueezeÂshake the transmission a little, for even spread. And then you will see the Grease coming out of the Air vent. Stop !!! Greasing Done !!!!. Screw both Greasing screws.
    l) Attach the tranny to the Engine, 4 bolts !!! a single put !!! engine raved up !!! everything seemed to be working but ALAS! No power. Tried to throttle to rave up the engine !!! Oh ! No !! the throttle cable was loose.
    m) Ok ! adjusted the cable and with my finger crossed and nock on the deck ! I started the engine back again. And Raved the throttle ! Wolah !!!! I am on the move.
    n) Put Dirt cover, Twine in place and took it for the actual test. Surprise ! Surprise ! I fixed it !!!!!!

    Thank you so very much for all the members and the posts. And moreover the time everybody has taken to write and post. CanÂt ask for more, but a PARTY TO CELEBRATE THE FORUM MEMBERSÂ CONTRIBUTION.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks to all for the helpful information in this forum! I've had the FG100 since 2001.

    Last year the tiller started loosing power and I noticed the trans was very hot. How did I miss the part in the manual about greasing the trans?!!! I went 8 years (moderate heavy use) without ever adding grease.

    So I filled it with grease and the power returned. But after using it for an hour this year, the trans froze up solid. When I put a wet finger to the bottom of the trans, it sizzled.

    I took the trans apart (again, thanks for all the insight given above). It still had plenty of grease. But the worm wheel was chewed up in one area.

    Considering all the information above in this thread, I decided to purchase the trans from Pete's for $127 including S&H. The way I see it, I probably overheated some of the parts. If I replaced the tine shaft with worm wheel and associated bushings, washers, and seals, the cost is about $67 including S&H. If I also replace the worm shaft and all associated parts, the cost is about what a new trans cost, or more. As jammer1 mentioned above, I'd be concerned about having to "do this job again very shortly."

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  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My neighbor owns a small engine repair shop and every now-and-again he brings home a junk pile; things that were too expensive to repair and never picked up, things that have bills on them but have sat, unpaid, for years, etc.

    Well, tonight, I helped him unload his trailer and low and behold, he pulled off a mini-tiller. I had been looking for a mantis on Craigslist but during gardening season they are getting a premium for them. Being this is our first attempt at a garden, and being that I have many other hobbies, I wanted save as much hoeing as possible.

    Anyway, he told me to take it home and play with it- as I have many other things in the past (troy bilt tiller, echo string trimmer, etc). I checked the oil in this little Honda tiller, put some fresh gas in it and gave her a few pulls. Nothing. I pulled the plug and made sure she was firing, yep. I shot a shot of ether in the plug hole and put the plug back in. She fired right up! Yea ha! Just in typical Honda fashion, it ran very quiet and sounded great. That is, all but the tines wouldn't turn. Oh, man! I got the model #, typed it in to a Google search and this thread was the first one to come up. After I spent about 20 minutes reading all of the threads, I went back out in the garage and tore it down. I washed all of the parts in the parts washer and, sure enough, I have a striped brass gear. Shoot, mine was even cracked! I came in the house, clicked on Pete's link and ordered the gear on the shaft and 4 seals.

    I'll keep ya'll posted. I can't wait to get my $56 mini-tiller going.......

    Thanks for all the help, here.....

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks for all these postings! I have my tiller transmission apart but can't get the tine shaft with the brass gear out of the transmission case. Any help anyone can give would be great.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Got it! I finally found the other set screw on the other dust cover. It was filled in with dirt and I just missed it. I'm now ready to order parts and get it back together.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I am going to change the transmission oil but am unable to get the dust cap off with the correct size allen wrench. Any suggestions? I am also going to attempt to rebuild the transmission but question if I am not able to do so, would I be able to use my dethatcher attachment with any other tiller? Thanks for the help in advance and for all of the other great posts.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is a followup to my 6/3/09 post.

    Received the trans from Pete's Small Engine about one week after the order was placed. Noticed the Drum & Hub wobbled when the shaft was turned by hand. It's the piece at the top of the trans that's part of the clutch. Someone probably dropped the trans. Bent it back straight with a hammer and wood block.

    Filled the trans with more grease. There was plenty of grease in there, but it took more before coming out the air vent hole.

    It's been in use since June 11, or about 3 weeks now. It has about 3 hours on it and is working well. The original problem was the trans seriously overheated and locked up because I never put grease in it. The new trans is much cooler to the touch after use.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello all...
    The worm-wheel on the tine shaft was stripped; replaced the entire shaft/wheel assembly. Prior to connecting the trans. to the motor, I manually turned the drum to make sure the tine shaft rotated (yes). But once the tiller is assembled, the motor runs, but the shafts do not rotate... is this a clutch issue? Thanks in advance if someone has an inkling into this... Reuben

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Drum? You mean the clutch bell? If so, should be your clutch. That should be easy to replace.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The drum is at the very top of the transmission assembly; in other words, it's the topmost piece of the worm (vertical) screw (it's the brassy looking cylinder at the top of the trans... see top photo in http://www.petessmallengine.com/html/page_163.html). I guess you could call it the clutch bell...

    Since I posted earlier today, I've gotten the motor to turn the tine shaft but ONLY because I loosened the 2 screws a the bottom of the trans that assist in keeping the two halves of the trans together. The problem, of course, is that this leaves a small gap between the two halves that can let in dirt, etc. and that really should not exist.

    I think I've put all the pieces in the trans correctly, but may have to open it up again...

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Just want to verify, the "drum is where the engine clutch go in. That looked like the drum bell to me.

    If you have to loosen the screws that hold the two half of the transmission casing together, you got problem of the transmission. I thought you said you can turn the drum with your hand and saw the tine turn!!!! If you can turn it with your finger, the engine should be able to turn it. You better double check again. That don't make sense at all.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    similar issue with no tines turning but can start and run the tiller...pulled transmission apart, no issues with worm gears or shaft. Actually, the brass worm gear had minor grooves or arched fins, is that normal? i put back together and lubed up with some generic grease(which seems much thicker than what was in there - dont know when the last time it was filled with grease, i inherited this from my grandfather). i can turn the clutch bell but is a little difficult...obviously it doesnt turn extremely freely, but there is no grinding, just a little hard to turn. Assembled everything back together and still have an issue with no tines turning.

    Could it be a clutch issue? How thick should the pads be on a normal operating clutch?

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't think the bell/drum should be that hard to turn, but if you can turn the thing, the engine should be able to turn it no problem. Sounds like you do have a clutch issue. No I have no idea how thick the clutch is, but it should not cost you a lot of money to buy a new pair.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    received the new clutch from Petes - unfortunately it looks exactly the same as the one currently on the tiller. Is there an adjustment for the engagement of the clutch that i could fool around with to try to get it to grab? Or should i just break down the transmission again and replace the worm gears for the hell of it? as i mentioned before, i can turn the bell by hand and it spins the tines, it's just a little difficult.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't have the shop manuel of the GX31, but I looked at the GX25 and look like the clutch has only one spring holding the two half, or else you can take one off. I don't know if you take the spring off, things will start flying. If you check nothing can fly apart with the spring off, you can always try taking it off, carefully put back together and run it AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Other than that, I have no other suggestion.

    You ever try loosening the screws holding the two half of the transmission casing a little to see whether it turn easier?

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You try hand turn the clutch to make sure it attach to the engine?

    You rev the engine high and still no engagement?

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just wanted to thank all of you who have taken the time to create/post on this forum. When my tiller seized up I tore it apart just for curiosity sake to see how the thing works. When I found the stripped gear I decided to google and found this forum. I've never done anything like this before but decided it was only a small gamble to order the parts and see what I could do. Pete's was out of stock for the winter but recently got the parts in and after a few attempts at getting things put back on in the right order, my tiller runs like a champ now. Thank you all for your great information. You saved me a couple of hundred dollars!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A couple of questions. Is it possible to marry the FG100 4 stroke engine to a Mantis 2 stroke chassis and transmission&

    Does anyone know of a prts dealer who will ship to the UK?

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes. Mantis used to use the GX31 that is same as one on FG100. Go on Mantis site and look through the different manuals. Find the one with the IPL and you should be able to order the parts. I believe the gear box is always the same. I wrote to Mantis just a month ago after learning they have a bigger Mantis using the GX35 engine. They confirmed that the gear box is the same as the existing one.

    I don't know about the shipping but you should be able to order from dealers in UK that sell Mantis. YOu just download the correct IPL from Mantis of the model that use GX31 and order the parts.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Many thanks for the reply. So my dilemna is to repair an FG100 gearbox - if I can convince a US seller to ship me the parts, or to obtain an battered 2 stroke mantis and marry the 2.

    I might end up trying both and report back.

    Great forum by the way - folks!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you don't have an old Mantis, buy a new one!!! Don't know price in UK, but I can get one for $299 with the Echo engine which is a true commercial engine.

    If you have to buy a used Mantis, then have to buy the parts, you might end up spending more to safe the GX31. Why not modify for either a bicycle or RC model plane. GX31 is popular in these two area. Then buy a new Mantis and start fresh.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yeah - but buying new isn't as satisfying (or frustrating) as resurrecting a dead tiller.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Do you have the term "S&M" in UK?!!!!


    Just kidding!!!

    Well do whatever you want. Make sure you check for any play by rotating the tine back and fore to check the main gear is in good condition when you buy the Mantis.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ok - decided what the hell and bought the whole rebuild kit from Petes. Put it together, greased it up and let her rip. Finally got the tines to start working again.

    My issue now is that it seems like it is overheating and cutting out after 10 minutes or so of use. I'll be tilling and then the when she heats up, it'll start to cut out and stall - the tines will freeze up some and then she stalls. I touched the case and it is VERY hot - do you think it has something to do with the new parts heating up and expanding? and yes, i used the grease that Petes supplies and filled her up, shook it, turned the drum and filled it up again. so it should have enough grease.

    thoughts?

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I decided that with the poor exchange rate, shipping and import duty, to source a whole transmission in the UK. Just noticed one of the tines has broken off.

    Question, can tines and dethatcher kit etc from the FG110 or Mantis fit onto the FG100?

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't thinks so on the first pass, because the FG110 and FG100 use different model tines. I know because my dealer had the FG100 tines ( different tines) on sale big time. If it will fit the new FG110, they won't do that.

    I am not sure about the Mantis, but I never read anything about being interchangable.

    I think you should cut your loss. The FG100 has problem and the last thing you want to do is to invest more money into it. You might as well start out with a new FG110 or Mantis. Particular the 2 cycle Mantis is only $299 here. It is still a good little cultivator, you don't need to have the Honda engine.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I've now sorted and uprated the transmission. I like the FG100, it's got more power than the FG110, which is what I need for my clay soil. The Mantis would be the equivalent of $480 this side of the pond - we get ripped off for everything here!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh I forgot. I did look at the FG110 in the dealer. The tine shaft is bigger than the Mantis, It definitely not going to fit.

    Holy, $480. Honda engine or the 2 cycle. Remember the 2 cycle is a very good engine. It is the Echo 21cc engine. It is beyond proven. It has plenty of power. Power has never been a problem.

    How about the Stihl YardBoss. It is German make, is it cheaper in your country? It has more attachments than both Honda and Mantis. If you can get it cheaper, go for it. I think it is about $300 in US.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thats the 2 stroke version. I'm afraid everything is more expensive here! You lot have it so good over there!

    I'm just as much into renovating as using, so i'll keep an eye out for a battered Mantis, just for the fun of it.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So I have a sweet little noisy and smelly 2 stroke Mantis that runs like the wind. No problems other than the noise and smell. Well I check the local classifieds all the time and I called on a Honda FG100. The guy wanted $75
    and when I left he was begging me to take it for $50.
    I took it and it needed some help. I'm not sure if mine is as bad off as a lot of yours are, but I'll be tearing the trans down to have a look see. I have usually been a honda fanatic I own a Honda 1100 Shadow, Snowblower, lawnmower, pressure washer. and this fg110 tiller is making me like the Mantis all the more. Not Happy to hear all the bad news about this tiller. Thanks for the info. The jury is still out!

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have replaced the clutch and when I put the unit in the dirt, it stops tilling. Is there a replacement for the clutch hub?

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Certified parts corporation bought out Hoffco. They do have parts.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm getting ready to order the rebuild kit for the FG100 tranny from Pete's. Original tranny failed five years ago and I bought a new tranny (all that was available at the time) and now it has failed.

    For some time I have had a problem with the tranny grease blowing up through where the tranny joins the engine. It isn't a great deal of grease, but enough where it oozes down and collects dust. When I pulled the tranny and disassembled it today, I didn't see any type of seal or gasket. What gives?

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow! Ordered parts for tine shaft rebuild (rest was OK) from Pete's on Sat. Mailed on Mon and received on Wed. Super service. Local shop wanted $220 for new trans. and $60 to install.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It seems this thread has been inactive for a couple of years. Hopefully someone will see my post.
    The gear on the worm shaft is almost completely devoid of teeth. I'm debating between replacing the 2 gears or getting the complete rebuild kit. Also Ereplacementarts.com shows a complete transmission for $108.86. If this is a completely assembled transmission, it would be much easier than rebuilding all the parts.
    What's the consensus regarding just replacing gears vs. doing a total rebuild?
    Thanks.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ken, what's a part number or URL for the assembled transmission at ereplacementparts.com ? So far, I have just found the transmission rebuild kit Part Number: 06200-V06-305 for $128.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My bad - the complete transmission is for the FG 110 not the 100. I ended up buying the kit and just finished the rebuild. It went pretty well.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just received the kit from Pete's Small Engines.

    Step 6 of the transmission assembly kit instructions shows screwing the clutch drum to the connecting shaft using a socket stem Honda p/n 07916-3710101. What alternative tools have folks here used for this step?

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just clamped the shaft in a vise and used a couple of blocks of wood to keep the vice jaws from damaging the shaft. I turned the drum by hand until it was tight.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have just opened my FG100 and the brass gear is all worn down to a frazzle⦠I went to Perte's small engine site and the transmission assembly is out of stock until July 10 but the whole kit for $121 is available..I emailed them if it is available now but got no reply⦠I went to the plano site and the same trans assembly is also out of stock, so ordered in amazon sold by weingartz for 128 plus 18 shipping⦠thank you for taking the time to write all your findings and DIY work aroundâ¦â¦. I will post my experience rebuilding this FG100 tranny..

  • 9 years ago

    Does anyone have a Tranny rebuild video for the Honda FG100

  • 9 years ago

    You may want to start a new post. Not many people will want to look at a 10 year old post with 112 comments.

  • 8 years ago

    To Chad with the problem removing the clutch. Hope you got this figured out by now, but since this thread helped me with my rebuild, I feel compelled to contribute. I just did a rebuild and also bought a replacement clutch figuring I should just replace everything since I had it torn apart. I had the same problem removing the clutch. To stabilize the engine so it doesn't turn, remove the spark plug, stuff the starter rope into the cylinder chamber, and then rotate the shaft until the piston pushes up against the rope. This will hold the piston in place so you can loosen the two bolts. Works for reattaching the clutch also. Petes Small Engine gave me this tip, and also saw a YouTube video on this.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    FG100 manual talks about setting up the tines in a different configuration (p.16) for 'tilling in rocky soil'. However, part of the illustration is missing...has anyone figured out what the different order is? I guess there aren't many possibilities, but I've had repeated problems with rocks stopping the tines, and probably that's what stripped my gear...

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    In my paper copy of the FG100 owners manual, page 16 shows how to set up the tiller with only two tines for cultivating in narrow spaces. With that configuration you have to use the two spacers that came with the tiller to fill the gap.

    Page 15 shows the setup for "Tilling In Rocky Soil". Basically, you need to reverse the "B" and "C" tines on the shaft. Those letters should be stamped on the tines and as I remember they're pretty large. If you look at the hubs on those tines, they have a flat side and an "extended" side. In the rocky soil configuration, the "extended side goes next to the transmission.

    At some point, Honda deleted a couple of illustrations from their manuals that shows the tine configuration - at least they're not in any of the online versions I looked at. My paper copy is dated 2002. And my tiller is still going strong. I've used it every day this week!

  • 8 years ago

    First, thanks to all for for the previous entries. I doubt I could have done it without them. My tiller quit. It seemed like transmission-related. I tore it apart & discovered the stripped gear. I ordered the rebuild kit from Pete's & installed it with only minor difficulties, and it is working great so far. The one thing I wanted to add that nobody has mentioned, is that the directions for the rebuild said a special tool was needed to install the cup-like part that mates with the clutch. I was shocked to see the tool was anywhere from $120 and higher. I did the best I could to torque the part onto the shaft without the tool, and am hoping it will be OK. Did everyone else do the same?

  • 7 years ago

    Just wanted to say thanks to all that have posted on this thread. I have an FG200 and the tines also stopped turning under load. I took it to the shop and they cleaned the carburator I guess that is their automatic response...

    I explained that I thought it was the clutch, and the mechanic pulled up the shop manual, and proceeded to explain why it would cost $350 to fix, and that I should just buy a new FG201 for $550. Non-plussed at this, I decided to do some research and with the help of this thread and a few general Youtube videos I found that both the clutch and transmission were fine (fairly worn, but still in reasonable condition) However, the clutch was covered with oil, so I suspected the crank case oil seal, which was the problem. I bought the new seal and transmission gasket from another friendlier shop, and they even emailed me the PDF shop manual with all of the parts and assembly detail. I had to improvise my own clutch boss puller, and oil seal press (from a broken Weber BBQ leg believe it or not...) and for around $15 I am back in business. Thanks to all for the inspiration to do it myself.

  • 3 years ago

    Ok I haven't been able to confirm it but I believe Hoffco is out of business can't seem to track down the parts. Pete's small engine(https://lawnmowerstuff.com/163-Honda_FG100_Parts.html ) is now this for FG100 transmission parts and is the cheapest still as the prices above are outdated. I haven't nailed down the Hoffco=Murray/Yardman etc. but for people who are still using this as reference some links are bad.

  • 7 months ago

    Tips when rebuilding Honda Mini FG100 Transmission:

    Before order any parts do the follow:

    - The brass drive gear is connected to the tines axle by spines only. So be careful how much you hammer on the axle to try and get rusted on tines off, it possible to drive the gear off the axle.

    - The primary reason this transmission fails is water intrusion. While low or old grease(it separates) doesn't help and will cause the transmission to fail after a long period time, it's normally allowing water into the transmission which can rust the worm gear and thrust bearing that really speeds up the failure.

    - Thoroughly clean and degrease worm gear. Look for rust and pitting, this is what normally kills the brass drive gear. Remember brass is softer metal then steel. If any rust or pitting forms on the steel worm gear it will just grind down brass drive gear. The rust and pitting acts like sand paper.

    - If worm gear has any rust or pitting this must be clean up and smooth out, otherwise a new brass drive will just get grind down again. A 1x30" bench belt sander works good for this, the last sanding should be with a 300 or 400 grit sanding belt.

    - Soak and clean the thrust bearing with a penetrating oil. Make sure the roller bearing and washer are turning and look fine, no pitting. The thrust bearing is just above the worm gear and below the brass bushing.

    - Clean drive shaft for worm gear to remove any rust. Any bench grinder and wire brush works great for this.

    - Check all bushings for excessive play and wear.

    - Thoroughly clean and check the tines axle rubber seals and worm drive top seal for wear. All to often water intrusion is caused by the tiller being left out in the rain and water run pass the top seal which result in rusting on the up end of the worm drive shaft, thrust bearing, and worm gear.

    - Check the top bearing for play and wear. It at the top of the drive shaft for the worm gear under the top seal and is a sealed bearing.

    - If the worm gear, thrust bearing, top and bottom worm gear bushings, top sealed bearing, or top seal are too worn or damage you have to purchase the full transmission rebuild kit($$$$$)

    - However if whole worm drive assembly looks good, maybe after a little sanding of the worm gear, then only the tiller tine shaft assemble is need to replace the damage brass drive gear. Double check the bushing, thrust washers and rubber seals for your tine shaft, if this look fine the Earthquake 4651 replacement tiller tine shaft assembly might work and save you some money but I have not tested this. Others say it the same tine shaft. However if you have any concerns about this or the bushing and seals Pete's Small Engine tine shaft kit includes the axle with drive gear, bushings, and seals.

    Modification:

    - I replaced the top grease fill bolt with a M6 grease nipple. This was the prefect thread size to make a solid connection. I did have to drill the existing thread out which do not match any standard nipple thread size to tap for M6 thread. I recommend doing this on a drill press so you can drill the hole a little offset so the nipple will not hit the tines axle dirt cap.

    - The reason for installing the grease nipple is to allow easy greasing but also to allow the transmission to be pressure fill with grease to avoid creating any air pocket for water accumulate if it finds it way into the transmission. I use the bottom grease fill bolt to check for water.

    Assembly:

    - I recommend popping the seal off the top drive bearing, removing the old grease with an air gun, and then packing in new grease with your fingers. Once done you should be able press the seal back into place.

    - Use thin gasket material not form a gasket silicone to seal transmission housing. Using form a gasket silicone with cause the tines axle to bind against the axle bushing and thrust washers, it's just not thick enough.

    - I recommend using Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease, it's extremely water resistance and extreme pressure grease. Very low oil separation rate. I have found tubes of Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease that over 20 years ago and the oil still has not started to separate.