dennyd75 Hi Denny, Another way to look at it. unrestricted airflow + vacuum drawn by the piston moving down = desired vacuum at the carb and desired amount of fuel drawn from the carb. Partially restricted air intake + vacuum drawn from the piston moving down = higher than desired vacuum at the carb which = more fuel drawn out with less air able to get in = rich mixture. You rightly say low pressure at the carb is what draws fuel out. What you don't see is if intake is restricted you will have lower pressure at the carb, IE higher vacuum. Lie you say, vacuum draws out the fuel. More vacuum more fuel. More fuel less air = rich. It's not the air flowing by that draws fuel out, it's the vacuum sucking it out. A manual choke works by reducing the air flow right? It draws fuel with less air and make the mix richer. Had you thought of that? If you leave a manual choke on what happens? As it gets up to operating temperature It will sputter and black smoke comes out the exhaust and it eventually stall. If you were take the plug out right then you'd find it blackened and wet with fuel. The engine gives up trying to clear the overly rich mixture out of the head, the plug gets wet and it won't fire and it stalls out. Actually, you find motors with a clogged air filter will start without the choke. So running and engine with a dirty air filter is the same as leaving the choke partially on. Trust me, it it gets dirty enough it will quit running and if that happens you're going to find a blackened and possibly wet plug. If you completely block air to the carb and spin the engine over it will flood. In fact I've done that on cars long ago where the choke didn't work, it was cold out and it wouldn't start. Simply take a shop rag and hold it over the carb and spin it over at take the rag off soon as it fires, put it partially back on if it tries to stall and do this enough to get some cylinder head temperature (it is a two person job). Restricting the air enriched the mixture to achieve the cold start. If you keep going in heavy grass and the mower stalls what do you think is happening? It floods the engine. It's what makes them harder to restart. Too much fuel in a warm engine. You would also notice as the revs come down at full throttle you'd see black exhaust. Black smoke is always too rich. Rich conditions in a warmed up engine make carbon rich exhaust. The first thing that should be done on finding evidence of too rich conditions is check the air filter. Same is true on cars or any 4 stoke engine. On a mower if you have a clean air filter and have cleaned or replaced the plug, made sure it's the right plug and right temperature range plug, and the fuel isn't too old and it still is too rich about all you have left is the carburetor. That's assuming you don't have a blown or leaking head gasket which leaves evidence where the head and block meet. and that's a too rich problem but for a different reason. If the head gasket is leaking it won't build enough compression to raise mixture temperatures to where they need to be to burn cleanly. If the air filter is clean you can take the carb off and apart and there are things you can easily check that can make it flow too much fuel like, I think, float valves but I'm not a carb expert.

Thanks for the info. But, I sent it back home with my friend. He is gonna take it to the Honda dealer. I really didn't want to mess with it. He was complaining about how high the parts costs are, I said ya, I am not doing it for free either, lol...

Tips when rebuilding Honda Mini FG100 Transmission: Before order any parts do the follow: - The brass drive gear is connected to the tines axle by spines only. So be careful how much you hammer on the axle to try and get rusted on tines off, it possible to drive the gear off the axle. - The primary reason this transmission fails is water intrusion. While low or old grease(it separates) doesn't help and will cause the transmission to fail after a long period time, it's normally allowing water into the transmission which can rust the worm gear and thrust bearing that really speeds up the failure. - Thoroughly clean and degrease worm gear. Look for rust and pitting, this is what normally kills the brass drive gear. Remember brass is softer metal then steel. If any rust or pitting forms on the steel worm gear it will just grind down brass drive gear. The rust and pitting acts like sand paper. - If worm gear has any rust or pitting this must be clean up and smooth out, otherwise a new brass drive will just get grind down again. A 1x30" bench belt sander works good for this, the last sanding should be with a 300 or 400 grit sanding belt. - Soak and clean the thrust bearing with a penetrating oil. Make sure the roller bearing and washer are turning and look fine, no pitting. The thrust bearing is just above the worm gear and below the brass bushing. - Clean drive shaft for worm gear to remove any rust. Any bench grinder and wire brush works great for this. - Check all bushings for excessive play and wear. - Thoroughly clean and check the tines axle rubber seals and worm drive top seal for wear. All to often water intrusion is caused by the tiller being left out in the rain and water run pass the top seal which result in rusting on the up end of the worm drive shaft, thrust bearing, and worm gear. - Check the top bearing for play and wear. It at the top of the drive shaft for the worm gear under the top seal and is a sealed bearing. - If the worm gear, thrust bearing, top and bottom worm gear bushings, top sealed bearing, or top seal are too worn or damage you have to purchase the full transmission rebuild kit($$$$$) - However if whole worm drive assembly looks good, maybe after a little sanding of the worm gear, then only the tiller tine shaft assemble is need to replace the damage brass drive gear. Double check the bushing, thrust washers and rubber seals for your tine shaft, if this look fine the Earthquake 4651 replacement tiller tine shaft assembly might work and save you some money but I have not tested this. Others say it the same tine shaft. However if you have any concerns about this or the bushing and seals Pete's Small Engine tine shaft kit includes the axle with drive gear, bushings, and seals. Modification: - I replaced the top grease fill bolt with a M6 grease nipple. This was the prefect thread size to make a solid connection. I did have to drill the existing thread out which do not match any standard nipple thread size to tap for M6 thread. I recommend doing this on a drill press so you can drill the hole a little offset so the nipple will not hit the tines axle dirt cap. - The reason for installing the grease nipple is to allow easy greasing but also to allow the transmission to be pressure fill with grease to avoid creating any air pocket for water accumulate if it finds it way into the transmission. I use the bottom grease fill bolt to check for water. Assembly: - I recommend popping the seal off the top drive bearing, removing the old grease with an air gun, and then packing in new grease with your fingers. Once done you should be able press the seal back into place. - Use thin gasket material not form a gasket silicone to seal transmission housing. Using form a gasket silicone with cause the tines axle to bind against the axle bushing and thrust washers, it's just not thick enough. - I recommend using Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease, it's extremely water resistance and extreme pressure grease. Very low oil separation rate. I have found tubes of Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease that over 20 years ago and the oil still has not started to separate.

laslonimne: Your a piece of work , 1st you state "I don't appear to be getting any spark" Then you throw money into a New Fuel Filter , Spark Plug and Carb Kit lol . Every think of testing the Kill Switch or the Neutral Lockout Switch if applicable. With your self proclaimed symptoms this along with the Coil (load test) would be the 1st place to start your investigative planning . Especially when you state it starts after you let it sit (cool down) As for the carb cleaning is the 1st issue (including) the associate lines fittings and FILTER . No not replace inspect and CLEAN. Why did you replace the carb components , was the diaphram torn or sagging from ethanol based fuel usage ? Were the Jets or Seats damaged ? These are the issues a mechanically inclined person checks prior to investing $$$ guessing at the cause and effect . There are numerous people on this forum with much superior knowledge than you have demonstrated within two threads as a relative newbie to the site . It may behoove you to take notes laddy ! I don't know where you came up with the Oil Change scenario as a resolve to your concerns lol . Annual or otherwise .