If anyone needs parts and/or owner manuals for Troybilt Tomahawk Chipper Shredders, there is a plethora of information for Troybilt Tomahawks built between 1988 to 1999 that can be downloaded here: http://www23.zippyshare.com/v/42653288/file.html

The download is an iso-image file, 133MB in size. Once the file is downloaded, simply right-click on the file and open it with your disk burning software and burn the file to a CD. If you don't have disk burning software, ImgBurn is a free disk burning software that will work well. Once you burn the CD you will find about 20 pdf manual iterations on your disk. If you need Tomahawk parts or owner manuals, there is a good chance you will find the information you need on the burned CD.

Hi I have a Tomahawk 15014S looking for a part number 11661. It is a shim does anybody know the specs on this shim and where I could find one. This shim is internal, and is on the main pulley shaft. I think it is missing I am getting a grinding sound on start up.
Thanks CWC777

Hi I have a troy built Tomahawk, I think it was a 5 engine. I have completely rebuilt it and put a new engine on it. Engine runs great. It chips and shreds but on startup when I engage it a grinding noise starts. It clears up as the unit hits maximum RPM. I'm thinking when I rebuilt it. Somehow I left the 3 shims out or 1 shim not quite sure if that be the case. Would you happen to know what size shim it takes and what side the shims go on and how you can make sure you have the proper clearance before reinstalling the motor back on. I hope somebody can help, or you can refer me to somebody who can. Thanks

I have the Troy-built Tomahawk 1991 8hp chipper/shredder and i need the following parts for the cylinder assembly .....part #: 97129 Roll Pin, 3/16" x 3/4" qty (4) ....Part #: W20307503 Cylinder Hammer qty (16) ...... part #: W203010013 Spacer (short) qty (8) ....... part #: W203010012 Spacer (long) qty (4) ........ part #: W203010014 Spacer (long, with role pin hole) qty (4) ANYONE WHO HAS THESE PARTS OR CAN SUGGEST HOW TO GET THEM - PLEASE SEND EMAIL TO wless3@gmail.com thank you

I recently purchased a tomahawk chipper shredder Model No. cs47330x48a. After cleaning the carb up I have it running decent and replaced the belt. Now I think the knives need replaced. I'm having problems finding parts for it any suggestions?

I was able to find complete knife sets on ebay a few years ago. I haven't looked recently but hopefully they are still there. You bought a wonderful machine. I'm not familiar with which model number you have. I have an 8hp Super Tomahawk with the B&S engine.

Mark, knowing the part numbers would be a good place to start. I don't have any specific information on model 47330. Some information I have is dated 11/92 on models 47265, 47266, 47267 & 47276, so I assume 47330 was made later. I have information on model 47325-8HP and 47321-10HP that is dated 1999, so I assume that model 47330 was made prior to 1999.

I have quite a bit of information, manuals and part lists, on various TroyBilt Chipper Shredders that I have uploaded to Zippyshare.com.

The first download is a zipped file that unzips to be an iso image file named Tomahawk Manuals. The iso image file can be copied to a CD disc. If you don't have a burn program, ImgBurn is a free utility program that can copy the iso image file to a CD. The first download can be found here: http://www66.zippyshare.com/v/ExSEWHCj/file.html

If you just want the identical files, all inside a folder named Tomahawk Manuals2, without having to copy them to a CD, they can be downloaded from here: http://www66.zippyshare.com/v/Oqc89uWN/file.html.

Most of the files, 23 in number, are in pdf format. In both cases the downloaded files will need to be unzipped. I hope this information is helpful. The download files will remain active and available on Zippyshare until 30 days after the last download when it is automatically deleted.

Mark, after making my last post I did a Google search for your model and found the manual with at least a few parts listed. I uploaded the file to Zippyshare here: http://www93.zippyshare.com/v/qmuPxicB/file.html

In looking at the manual it appears the part number you need is 1756905, shredder blades. They are available from Chalmers Industries here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310345740359?item=310345740359&rmvSB=true

But you will probably need to note that you may flip your current blades in the horizontal rotation to expose a new cutting edge. Later they may be flipped in the vertical axis to expose additional cutting edges. The blades have four cutting corners and can be flipped three additional times from the original configuration.

Thank you for your help I really appreciate it.

Hello everyone not sure how active this forum is anymore but i recently bought the troybilt tomahawk 8hp chipper and when i go to engage the drive it squeals like crazy and cuts out. I am engaging it super slow!! Everything spins freely. Im thinking of doing a tune up to see if the motor just isn't running the best. Need to know spark plug gap and ny other ideas to get this thing working.

Thanks in advance.

Will

wjcampbell86@gmail.com

I would first try a new belt. If that doesn't improve the situation, you will always need a replacement belt from time to time.

Wow, this is an old thread. Newagefounder: a plug gap of 28 to 30 thousandths of an inch seems to be nearly universal with small engines. I'd start with that. And a carb cleaning could help a lot, too.

I see from earlier posts (and yours) that some sort of belt tightener (as with an idler pulley, for example) is used on the more recent machines. My old version came with a centrifugal clutch, which I put on the electric motor when I made the changeover. Works very well. You should be able to buy a centrifugal clutch at a small engine shop, should you wish to go that route.

I like the idea of cleaning the carb. I don't bother gapping the plug. I just put them in as they come out of the box. Both of my machines have the 8hp Briggs engine and have been bullet proof. I do use real gasoline in all my stuff though. No more ethanol crap for me.

I have a Troybilt Chipper Shredder Model 15014. Does anyone have a hitch for it I can buy?

I have a model 4990 I'm restoring and would like to know if when the engine is started, the blades also turn or if there's a separate switch to swing the blades...don't really want to cut off a hand when I first start out. Thanks

No, you must engage the belt tension with a lever. That is an old design. I have one but bought a more modern version because the old 4990 now has a bunch of cracks in it. I ran the crap out of that thing though. It was a good machine.

As I mentioned above, I am using a centrifugal clutch with my electric motor powered machine. I haven't seen the newer configuration, but I'm guessing it's some sort of idler pulley with a lever to engage or disengage the pulley. It shouldn't be hard to fabricate an arrangement of that type. It may be impossible to start a gas engine on that machine without a way to disengage because the mass of hammers and chipper is a big load for a gas engine to start against.

What are you doing that might cut off your hand when you start it? Whatever it is, I'd stop doing that.

Yes, they use an idler pulley. The can't use a centrifugal clutch because they have no throttle control. My Kemp machine used a centrifugal clutch and I really liked that. Yes, I can't imagine what he's doing to endanger a hand while starting it but whatever it is he needs to review his procedure. lol!!!

LOL runswithscissors, was being tongue in cheek. I thought I remembered it sort of idled before things started spinning. My 4990 won't be started for at least a week or so, it's being taken apart and cleaned right now. :)

All my problems are solved. Being the OCD person that I am, I knew I had the manual somewhere. I put my hands on it twice in two days, not realizing that's what it was. After viewing a manual cover on the web, I knew that needlepoint edge when I saw it. I have manuals galore. Now to get it up and running again. It has a centrifugal clutch, If anyone needs a manual for the 4990, I will happily copy and mail for cost of mailing.

I never saw a Super Tomahawk that had a throttle control. Both of my machines have the 8 HP Briggs engine which have been absolutely bullet proof. Enjoy that bad boy!

I see no reason why lacking throttle control would obviate using a centrifugal clutch. My electric motor has no throttle control. In fact, the one I'm using I cannibalized off my old non-functioning gas engine.

Really? Well if it doesn't have a throttle control the engine is set to run at full operating speed which I think is 3600 RPM so the clutch would engage as soon as it farts to life and stall it without an idler pulley. When the throttle is set at idle you can start and warm the engine before putting a load on it. That in my opinion is the best reason to have a centrifugal clutch. You can start and gently warm your engine before ... letting it rip. ;)

There is an useful online resource from which one can download many chipper/shredder manuals here: http://www.brentchalmers.com/ChipperManuals.php

I was wrong to say the gas engine lacks a throttle control. (Did I actually say that?) But you do tend to start it up and then speed up the engine to start work. In fact, I don't know of any gas engines that are permanently set at full speed.

But it is true about my electric motor. Strictly a one speed deal. Actually, I let the belt get too loose, and burned up the belt because it was slipping. A new belt (properly adjusted) solved that. By the way, the motor is 240 volt, 12 amps, and rated at 2 h.p. It has never stalled or shown any sign of being inadequate for the job. Saves a lot of futzing around with gas engines.

You are comparing apples to oranges. The gas engine is a whole different animal. I own a Super Tomahawk from the mid to late 80s and also another one (both 8HP Briggs) from the early 90s and neither has a throttle control. You choke it, pull the cord and presto you are humming along at 3600 RPM. If not, rinse and repeat.

I have been thinking about buying an electric chipper shredder because I have a huge solar array here that makes a lot more juice than I can use. I haven't found one that has impressed me enough to go for it yet. It's been a while since I last looked at what was out there though.

@CaptTurbo: When I located the manuals, I found the receipt from Garden Way...$1100 just for chipper/shredder in April of '85. They don't make 'em like they used to.

That sounds about right for what I paid for my first one. The one I'm running now here in Florida I picked up from fleaBay for four or five hundred. I will say one thing about the early one. It had a pathetic hokey gizmo to engage the idler pulley. It was a chain with a spring and an "S" hook and didn't work very well. I complained to Garden Way at the time and they told me that they just made a revision which involved a lever handle and they sent the parts out to me which made it operate properly and was the way they were sold from then on right to the end.

The only store-bought electric chippers I've seen aren't worth the powder to blow them to hell. I've had a couple, and about all they will do is chip twigs. Mine is an old super Tomahawk that had an old Tecumseh motor on it, non-working. I bought a used 240 v. Dayton motor from a local motor repair shop, and run it off an extension cord. The 240 volt circuit breaker is a GFCI, which makes it safer.I don't know whether a 120v. motor would have the power, as the equivalent to mine at 240v. 12 amp would be pulling 24 amps. It can be done, but most circuits nowadays are only 15 or 20 amps. 120 (110 in olden days) motors drawing 24 amps used to be fairly common, but I haven't seen one for a long time.

I would love to see what you came up with. I imagine a 20 amp motor could do the job as well and not trip my breakers. My place was built in '75 so I don't have the heavier wiring I wish I had. I sometimes trip my breaker in the garage running a two horse air compressor. If you can post pictures of what you put together I'd love to see them.

Mine was built in '53, so it has old wiring. My main beef is that it wasn't grounded. Every bit of wiring I've been able to replace, or new circuits and outlets, I've used Romex 12 gauge, which has a ground wire.

If you could convert your motor to 240v. and have room for a 240 circuit breaker, you could easily run it off 12 gauge. Each leg only draws half the amps of a 110/120 circuit. Many 240 volt tools have a surprisingly light cord, probably only 14 gauge.

I will take some photos and post them later.

Looks like most of you have a handle on these Tomahawk Shredders. My question is where do you find belts for these? Someone mentioned an Industrial B-27 belt. I am in dire need of a belt but just not having any luck hunting down any leads. After entering my model number (47251), it indicates that it is a Super Tomahawk VI. On one of my tags in a date of 6/90. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Troybilt Tomahawk V (8 HP) that I bought in 1988, model 11389. Most recently I purchased two replacement belts from NAPA auto, item 5L290W. Over the years I've bought belts from many sources and these NAPA belts are tough and work as well as any I've ever had.

Your local hardware store may have the belt you need. I don't think there is anything special about the belt. As long as you get one of the approximate length, there is quite a bit of vertical adjustability.

Got my '84 Super Tomahawk running like a top but could only sharpen one of the limb chipping blades as NOTHING would loosen the screws on the other side. Anyone have suggestions? As for a belt, we got this one from Amazon.

Stens 265-107 OEM Replacement Belt

By any chance did you use Loctite when you installed the limb chipping blade. If so, if you heat the securing screws with a propane torch on inside of the flywheel, that should allow you to loosen the screws. Using heat is about the only only way you can remove the screws if red Loctite was used but putting heat to the screws should help even if Loctite wasn't used. Between PB Blaster and a propane torch, the screws should loosen.

Hi, thanks for your reply. No, no Loctite. We did heat the flywheel with a propane torch to no avail. The first side came off with no trouble, but not the opposite. Used WD-40 overnight, too; may try PB blaster next.

Are those screws allen socket flat heads? If so, you could cut off an appropriate size allen wrench and chuck it in an impact driver (might have to insert it in some sort of adapter). I have done this on occasion with really stubborn fastenings.

I have been able to buy bits for my Super Tomahawk from eBay including the belts.

@runswithscissors2010: That's a fine idea; will have to give that a go. The Allen wrench was quite tough to seat, so your idea may work.

Hello - this seems to be the forum with the most recent activity on the Tomahawk on the Internet, so I am resurrecting this thread. I picked up an 8HP Electric Start model in decent shape last year, and I used it for a solid week before putting it away in the spring. Unfortunately when starting it up this fall my carb seemed to be leaking a lot of gas so I decided to change it out. There are tons of cheap ones on amazon but unfortunately and strangely, all have a lower bolt mount about 1/2 inch longer that prevents them from properly mounting on my tomahawk. Compare a very expensive B&S original #390323 to any of the cheap ones to see the difference. I was lucky to find an aftermarket one on ebay this evening that has the proper lower bolt mount height, we'll see how it looks when it arrives.

I always had some carb leakage after storage season. The cure was to fire it up and tap on it. The leaks always resolved themselves. Unfortunately my last Super Tomahawk bit the dust when the main bearing opposite of the engine died rather violently. May she rest in piece/s. I now am doing my chipping and shredding with a Mackissic 12-PT. Very nice machine but it was spendy.

Thanks for the tip! I can see tappig on it doing a couple things, to help with any junk around the needle seat or other spots. Mine was a bit more than a drip it was several drips a second. I was lucky the chalmers parts site still had a few of the correct carbs with the right lower mounting post depth. I bought 2 of the 4 remaining just to have an extra. Those Mackissics are pricey indeed...I am hoping my Tomahawk doesn't suffer the same fate, I'm just getting started.

Actually, when mine would leak it was more of a flow than a drip but the procedure I mentioned always resolved it. You will love the Super Tomahawk. I will always have a place in my heart for them. Just keep tabs on the bearings. I knew I had a bearing going dry and had even purchased a replacement. I procrastinated because of life demands from other directions and killed my baby.

Good advice, it's too late for my old carb I have tore it apart 3 times & rebuilt it unsucessfully, and it's done. How do you know whenthe bearing's going bad? Thx.

Your ears will tell you. Once you begin using the mighty Super Tomahawk you will know how she sounds. Bearings going south changes the sound. It's easy to hear a bearing going dry. I was an idiot trying to get more chipping out of her before making the repair.

The new carb is in and after a lot of tuning on the carb screws, we're back up. and humming!

Ten years ago I posted a download link to zippyshare.com for downloading Troybilt Tomahawk manuals. I haven't been on this site in a long while but I found that the download website, zippyshare.com, has gone the way of the Dodo bird is is no longer active. A new download website for the same information materials and catalogs is Mega,nz, The new download link is as follows: https://mega.nz/folder/u5pXyaTK#GsU2lU-tVMCqmB7XSEmQLg