I've not found any problem with dumping them, bag and all, in or on either the compost pile or the garden soil. The bags are also biodegradable.

Robertz6, I suggest you post on the Tomato forum and see if your problem can be diagnosed. Were the plants diseased? (What are the symptoms?) Did you have smaller harvests harvests without apparent other problems? Did you have big green plants but no tomatoes? Or maybe poor-tasting tomatoes? Have you changed the varieties you grow? Which varieties did you grow? Do you grow other veggies besides tomatoes, and if so, what veggies and did they have problems as well? (And if not other veggies, have you had problems with other plants in the garden?) Have you had your soil tested lately? Providing your location would also give a clue about possible weather problems. [Don't answer me here: I know a little bit, but there are real experts on the Tomato forum.]

I haven't tried that, but I'll offer my thoughts on it. You're better off with a variety of materials when you compost, but if all you have is coffee grounds and newspapers, you'll have a mix of browns and greens, so they'll compost. One potential drawback is that that could end up repelling water. I think that both newspapers and coffee grounds can repel water under certain circumstances, but if the layers are that thin, you may not run into it. The newspaper would probably decompose faster if you shred it first. It'll still decompose unshredded, but I think one reason people use a layer of newspapers when they lasagna garden is to lay down a weed supressing layer that will decompose slowly. You may also need to experiment with the thickness of the layers to get the right C:N ratio. You might want to try it on a small area first, and expand if it works well. Just my 2c. If you try it, let us know how it works.

The plastic tubs (4) which I use for indoor vermicomposting are located in an attached garage which is ambient heated. The garage never gets colder than 40F or warmer than about 50F in the winter months. In order to maintain sufficient heat I set these bins on top of a 6ft long heating pad with a thick carpet underneath. The heater is operated on a toggle timer which is adjustable in 15 minute increments. Controlling the heat can be rather tricky, so I'm careful to check the media temperature when feeding my worms. I use 40F to 50F water to blend my foods before adding to the bins, and frequently use one more quarts of additional water for hydration purposes. The feeding process is typically two blenders full per bin and each bin is fed about twice weekly. This pretty much conforms to PererKs's formula and it works well for me. There is one serious draw back to using a heater beneath the plastic worm bins. I must turn the bottom layer about once a week or it will bake. I usually do this when trench feeding and make sure there is adequate water to hydrate this material since it does get fairly warm. If this layer is not turned or hydrated it will bake into a hard crust. I once left the heat mat on for nearly three weeks while out of town and baked the entire contents of each bin which I mentioned in another thread. I had one large cake with temperatures exceeding 100F. Instead of completely starting over I flooded each bin with water and after awhile I noticed worms while breaking up the bricks. Some were adults, but the rest were newly hatched. When it comes to vermiculture mistakes, I have made more than my fare share, but vermiculturing with red wigglers has been more than forgiving.