The first thing I do when I get ready to use my rototiller is spray those engine support rods you were talking about and the little wheel on the end of the shift mechanism. I will try grinding the iron stop. The belt I have is supposed to be the correct one. My machine is still going strong. Bought it in 1983. I did replace the engine though when the crankshaft broke. I also put carbide tipped tines on it when the originals wore away to little stubs. I did have to replace the tine shroud and shift lever under warranty. But the longevity and ruggedness of the Horse rototillers doesn't negate the design problem that has been here from day one. And yes it is easier for the tiller tines to dig in when going uphill, but my soil is getting so loose that I have to push the tiller uphill because the wheels just spin in the loose dirt. I think I need tire chains, do they still sell them?

Please help! The shift lever on my unit has come completely loose! A broken pin came out of one of the holes holding the shift lever to the shifter. Does anyone know what that is called? I really need my tiller up and running but can't get it into any gear - it won't even roll on its own. Is there an easier fix than trying to find a pin or has anyone had luck with replacement pins? The earlier post from adnaw52 is asking the same question. When I search this message board on Google it appears that a pbuckner answered the question but the reply isn't on this thread or in the cached version. Anyone have that information? (Or know why someones helpful post would be deleted?) Thank you, thank you, for any insight!

I will second the BCS recommendation. I traded the Bronco in for a BCS 718 this spring and could not be happier with the machine! What an absolute pleasure to use and does a fantastic job. So much fun to use that I had to install a new set of tines already. This NC clay and granite in virgin soil ground them down to nubs with 40 or 50 hours of use. Don't know your budget but if your dad is older and needs something easier to handle I'd at least look at the BCS 732. It has a differential and reverse to make turning much easier. It is a fairly heavy machine, no sheet metal all rolled steel, but I find it smooth to operate. I looked at the White tiller with FRT and CRT option at the local dealer. Best of both worlds I thought! He had several with blown gear housings, in the middle of the tines. He told me the older models were made of cast and did great. Newer ones were pressed metal and cannot take the stress. He is not carrying them for this year due to the amount of returns for repair; I saw three in his yard with this issue. Just a thought from the dealer who fixes all the tillers and mowers sold at LoweÂs, Home Depot and such. I had heard of BCS but these guys were the ones that actually sold me on them. The shop guys told me that they had sold many and only seen one come back. It was 10 - 15 years old and was not shifting correctly. They changed the transmission fluid, adjusted the cables, fired it up and sent it home in working order. - Woody

Lary, These are forward rotating tine machines, not counter-rotating tines. All of the old Horses were this way. Bill, The number you posted is just a casting number, not the serial number. Look below the T-handle and clean all the gunk off to find a serial number. Parts that you need are readily available from a bunch of sources, including MTD (who took over for Troy Bilt) Jenice, If you have the 6HP Tecumseh engine, you dont have all of the model number. What you posted is the "spec" number. Your model number is most likely HH60. Use that model number, and you shouldnt have any problem finding the carb kit. The recoil starter may be a little bit harder to find.