Growth rate isn't so important, because I know that a quality tree takes lots of time and I won't be the one who gets the most enjoyment from it. But the two seem to be pretty comparable according to what I've read. I do like the leaf shape of the Northern red...

Haven't seen any of the few named cultivars sold through retail yet, so you'll likely find only "generic" trees.... which are usually great, just a bit less predictable in terms of shape, fall color, and a few other characteristics. Similar odds as starting from seed - agree with marti8a that it is a great option if you can wait for it to establish a presence. Otherwise, both Lowes and Home Depot sell them, so could check to see if ones near you still have any in stock. On our side of DFW, North Haven Gardens or Bruce Miller Nursery should still have some in various sizes as they tend to maintain better year-round inventory than the big box stores. Our squirrel planted Shumard is not changing yet. So if you do decide to buy this time of year, consider waiting a bit longer to see if you can find one that shows some good fall color. A lot of factors will affect this once planted, but can't hurt to start with one that at least shows some potential. Edit: Just noticed inner leaves on the Shumard actually have started turning yellow since I last looked on Friday. This post was edited by bostedo on Mon, Oct 28, 13 at 18:50

Checking back in! Over the course of the months, the condition of both trees continued to decline: every time new leaves were put out, they all started to brown at the edges. (We planted another oak at the same time in the front yard, and that tree is 100% fine.) We made the decision to take them down, sadly. DH took the left one down to almost soil level about a month ago. I immediately 'treated' the bark/outer ring portion with Roundup. On a different day, he took the right tree down to about 3'. No Roundup applied to that one yet. How best to remove as much of the left stump as possible, so the grass can grow in? And if it wasn't a good idea to take the stump that low, we still have the opportunity to take a different approach with tree #2 (right). Thanks for any advice.

no spray will ever help ice and hail damage.. and the leaves will look like heck the rest of the year ... imo.. its not necessary to treat secondary problems.. once the integrety of the leaf occurs ... its a deciduous tree.. so next year.. the leaves ought to be fine ... i would excavate and install some retaining wall blocks ... to allow a lower soil level.. inside the ring ... something like the second pic .. https://www.google.com/search?biw=979&bih=746&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=retaining+wall+block+tree+ring+to+lower+soil+level&oq=retaining+wall+block+tree+ring+to+lower+soil+level&gs_l=psy-ab.3...20615.25009.0.25250.22.20.2.0.0.0.113.1468.18j1.19.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.0.0....0.Msf_tRdf6yw review the link.. on how to plant a tree .. the biggest reason not to amend.. is because amends tend to settle.. and the tree sinks.. like i needed to tell you that ... lol ... bunches of other good stuff there .... https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub looks like you have a fertd lawn.. NEVER fert the tree .. it will get what little it needs from under the lawn ... otherwise ... it looks great .. try not to kill it with too much love... its a tree .. not the child ... it should never need pruning.. unless you have a goal to accomplish.. which requires such.. but for properly pruning out damaged parts ... if any.. ever ... get rid of the spray ... whats the pipe sticking out of the ground.. a tree planted in 2011 should be free range.. and not really ever need water ... get rid of it.. if you can get it out without intense root damage.. otherwise.. maybe cut it off underground.. and fill it up.. who needs hot air down in the root zone ... once you get it all set.. only put enough mulch to reduce weeds sprouting ... no need to fill up the whole well ... ken