Keep the cyl rod fully retracted and I would start it once a month to run for 5-10 min.
Mike

Thanks for the reply Mike. I failed to mention this is an electric powered splitter vs gas. Will that make a difference in the recommended run time per month? Is the cylinder retraction to keep fluid protection in a certain area? loger

Loger: Keeping the Rod retracted just protects the machined surface from the elements and incidental damage . Even with electric motors (which have bearings) it is a good practise to run them one every few mths to get grease in the bearing distributed. Same with the seals (use to be leathers) within the Hydraulic System and pump . Just a few minutes run time is all that is needed . Most of the new Oils also have antifungal additives also , so all shoulld be good within contamination from lack of use .

Loger : Just a further note of info as to your wood and seasoning . Your current method of keeping wood in slab form rather than splitting to increase seasoning time is sound . Although for your info seasoning of split wood stops after 3 yrs. At this time the Btu Values of the specific wood diminishs accordingly . So if you plan on using your would within a 3-4 yr time frame don't sweat splitting all your wood . Ensuring adequate ventilation is equally important .

Thanks for all the info and extra info ewalk. I'll have to learn to ask some questions before projects vs afterwards. I reworked some firewood this morning due to my limited City yard space 120' X 70' lot with 1800 sq ft living space, drives and etc. Tight! I have two 21' rows backed against a 10'fence and have gone 6'+ high on the racks. The back row is a pain to throw out and back in if the entire supply is not low. My Son-In-Law and I were pitching 12" dia logs restocking the back row this morning, when we should have been splitting them in quarters. He needed the exercise!!

My goal is to keep the front row under stocked for oak and pecan I find after the storms and etc.. Last winter was a 1st. I found 4 cords of live oak and pecan 1-2 mi away cut on the curbs in 2 weeks due to our heavy snow storm. I'll cut standing trees for the wood on vacant lots and small ranches and try to stay within 20 mi. loger

"He Needs the Exercise" Roflmbo ! Sounds like he is living a Healthly Lifestyle be married to your Daughter . Glad your still at the Wood Recycling , don't forget the old pallet recycling . I still have a Gold Mine of Yellow Birch Pallets that a local wood producer still offers for free. At 1st glance they appear to be spruce , but these are 4' x 8' ith the small 4"x 4" spacers. Once you pick one up you know you have Hard Wood not fir lol . Anyhow the 4" x 8' rails split beter than cedar for kindling and yellow birch has great Btu Valve when burnt in 4" x 8' lengths in the fall or spring . Look after that Son in Law Hes a Keeper :

If you have a steel reservoir, lack of headspace contact with the oil can cause rusting and you don't want the flakes in your system. Most filters are on the return side.

Good point on the need of a filter because my splitter does not have one. Would most or all non-professional or non-commercial grade splitters come stock with a filter? I have checked Northern Tools filters and surveyed possible areas to mount one. Would splitting 2-4 cords a season at home only still be a good idea? Maintenance has all ways been a priority with machinery but I would hate to spend the bucks if it's not enhancing the use or life of the machinery with my level of use. How often would it be recommended to change the element? Is there a minimal in-line filter that you know a link to, since this splitter was not designed with a mounted filter?

Ewalk and All: Would seasoning wood in Canada in a shed be slower and last longer than in the open TX sun and rain? I was very surprised (mid 80s) when I lost some quality cut and split Post Oak in 2-3 years. I feel Live Oak will last longer. I was into burning Post Oak stumps then as All Nighters and junk wood 1st because they held so well. I could get 4' X 7' X 3' high utility trailer loads free (due to being left as junk by others). Other cutters cut them just above the ground and the dozer cut them about 16"-18" below the ground. With an ax only there was very little to no work needed on the trunk. No tree or trunk was over 12" dia in the acres of development. Standing free wood or wood period is almost history in the Dallas-Fort Worth Area.

Thanks to All! Loger

Loger : All my wood is seasoned under a lean too attached to the Actual wood storage shed. The southern exposure allows suffcient sun early in the morning and late at night with plenty of ventilation to prevailing winds .
Extreme sun and rain exposure will detoriate wood much quicker . Perhaps a tarp when extended rain is expected then remove for additional drying during extend sunny periods . I love the pole barn design also for serious wood storage usage . Yes ensure proper filter placement and micron sizing do not want to starve the pump (cavitation) or you will burn it out very quickly . The return side prior to the tank can be utilized for this reason . But if sized properly either position is sufficient .

Make sure you don't put a low pressure return filter on the discharge side of the pump.

About seasoning your wood: better to keep it dry. There are more creatures (insects, fungi, etc.) ready to eat it in a moist state.

Even in DFW there will still be about 5-7% moisture content, kept under cover.

I plan to visit Northern Tools to see how, where and what size filters are mounted on their log splitters. I have no idea as to what I have but it works good. I feel it has been modified from the original and I have enhanced it with larger wheels (3), a handle and etc (but no mechanical changes). I have addresses below that will open pics to this splitter if the addresses work for you (as they worked for me). Please help me identify what brand and model this could possibly be.

1. Will most or all small log splitter have their filter on the low-pressure return (as an example to me)?

2. Are suction and return lines at the bottom and top of the tank, with the same low pressure and flow?

3. Pump's #1300356 led me to it being a Haldex, gear type, 3000 psi discharge, 11.000 GPM low flow.

4. Cylinder size = 2" rod/ram, 4" dia cylinder, 24" long. Tank size = 5 gallons. loger

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac110/jowjow/EquipmentLog-Splitter-Working-GoodBeforeModifying.jpg?t=1304091383

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac110/jowjow/EquipmentLog-Splitters-Final-Modifications-3-13-089.jpg?t=1304091383

http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/JOW_06/SplittingLastWintersWood7.jpg

Loger: The Pump Specification Plate giving Max Working Pressure and Flow Rates will indicate what Style and (micron filter) sizing you shall need to protect the pump from dirt intrusion and also prevent starving the pump of Fluid which could overheat and damage the unit . This information provided to your local Hydraulic Supply Store will allow them to select the proper filter for your application .

Thanks For The Reminder! It has been 4 months since I fired it to split two logs. I have a friend that has a load that needs splitting. BUT! In This Triple Digit Heat In North Tx. It w/n be fun but would beat looking into this One Eyed Monster 8 hrs at least a day. To make the best of it, I got back to repairing and discarding some of my extra Monsters. I needed this computer work to keep up this skill also. loger

this splitter was my father-n-laws.machine shop,heavy duty built with a 1983 10hp briggs.been settin for 8 years.got the carb.rebuilt and running.the motor boggs down in use.what should i do?a new motor or is this a proplem with pump?

Steven, (some possibilities until the experienced replies come or you might try PMs to gator 2, ewalk and others)

1. I feel it is the motor due to it sitting the number of years. Did you run it long enough to get it good and hot to say the rings are probably not sticking? Is it smoking like it might be burning oil? Is it hard to start like you have to try and build compression? Run a compression test to see if you have at least 100 psi.

2. Did you put in fresh oil and fuel (with a little carb cleaner in the fuel) and check the condition of the fuel for cracks, tight fit, etc?

3. Disconnect the engine from the pump to know the hydraulics is not pulling it down.

4. I feel the hydraulics will need some servicing and inspecting also as maybe changing the fluid at a minimum.

loger

All Good Points Loger , especially #3 . I would offer one other issue to inspect , the operation of the govenor ? Also you should check the pressure guage as to determine optimium max operating pressure as shown on the pump data specification plate and ensure that the Pressure Relief Valve setting is set within specifications. This will dump operating pressure back to the reservior when it reachs its set point . Otherwise you can stall the pump or damage or blow a hyd hose or fitting which could cause serious injury during a over pressure situation .