The corner cab with the 45 degree angle holds more but is a pain in the butt if things fall off the lazy susan, or worse, if you don't have one. I think the easy reach (no turntable) or pie shape lazy susan may be better because the opening would allow you to reach in the back corners better. I have never had a pie shaped lazy susan in any kitchen I have cooked in, so I could be wrong. I did have 2 45 degree ones and hated them for the most part.

There is other lighting in the bedroom. Two bedstand lights, one lamp on a dresser and two floor lamps next to the bed. All lights on is just barely enough to see things in the morning. I am planning to use the recessed lights to give a bit extra light. I have seen the same type of recessed lights in nicer hotels. In this case the lights seemed to provide a nice feel. I am looking at the Soraa MR16/GU10 which offer lots of choices such beam angles. 4 lights are around the perimeter of the room (almost rectangle). Two in front of dressers, two left and right of the front of the bed. One is in the small hallway entry area of the bedroom (4" wide, 5" long). FOr this one I figured I would go very narrow. Or not wider than to "touch" the wall just at the bottom of the wall.

geoffrey, YOU brought up the 95/5, not me... I have no idea what the installer will use, but I'm not sure how me doing research on items you suggest translates to me being a micro-manager (it's me reducing my ignorance of a particular product or method). I'm researching possible directions so that I may make a more informed decision rather than barraging the installer with impossible/impractical requests. But if you feel answering such questions is a waste of your energy, you're certainly free to ignore them. Vith, The issue with a tubing bender is it requires room for the length of tubing beyond the bends... in my case, it follows 40' down a set of I-beams, hooks behind an immovable object (think of it as a box I have to thread through, then juts out another 4-5'. If the line was completely flexible, I could push it past the obstacles and be done... but once you make a bend, you're set with the length of tube beyond that bend (hopefully that makes sense). My thinking was soldered/brazed connectors or simply swaging the tube in a couple of strategic places around the obstacle, allowing for 2-3 separate pieces to be used rather than trying to bend a single tube in an impossible manner. BTW, had a guy out here to discuss the plan. He said what I had in mind was not a problem. The furnace is moving closer, so he'll just trim back the line length, and since it's already cut, add in a few tight bends and cut/swage if/where necessary. The heat pump is moving farther away, so it will require a new pipe... same situation, just with a new pipe. He's also going to do a simple cut/reroute in a similar manner for the third heat pump. Nutshell, I get what I was hoping for,and it will significantly clean up the space so I may continue my framing. Thanks for everyone's comments/help.

You know, I actually don't see a problem with the current wall situation. I think it actually makes a lot of sense. The most recessed wall makes that corner with the shelves and door (to where?) its own space without having to throw a wall up. And the cabinet on the other side seems like it belongs there, though I would add some sort of opaque door to the cabinet to make the shelving seem less cluttered (or an actual door painted in the wall color so it disappears). The only thing I would do would be removing the cabinet completely as that would open the space more, but you've already stated you want to keep it. As for the built ins you've suggested, I probably wouldn't add them because they'd make the space feel cramped and could compromise viewing angles for the TV. If you're looking for more storage, perhaps a larger TV console would work? Like this one from Ikea (it comes in a variety of colors): I'd also remove the small chair under the TV