Looking for a walk behind tiller that can break new ground
canuckistani
15 years ago
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yungman
15 years agofarmerboybill
15 years agoRelated Discussions
new walk-behind quandry, honda hrx, lawnboy platinum, sr, or push
Comments (10)I chose not to address all of the points mentioned, but I do appreciate your input and advice. I finally got to try the HRX with cruise control, not just pushing it around on the showroom floor, but actually cutting the grass. Very impressive and high quality mower. Initial impressions, my opinion only, your mileage may vary: not a fast or as quiet as I would like; it bogged down a few times when I didn't expect it to be struggling, blade/cruise control will take some getting used to and at first try I do not find it as intuitive as the personal pace. It does seem like a high quality machine and I really like the composite deck and the Versamow feature and some of the higher end features like large bb wheels and the mulching blades and I can see why it receives great reviews. For the speed issue, I am going to try the Honda HRS216PDA, the push version, steel deck. There is no max speed on a push mower. Haven't seen any aluminum deck push mowers. At 63 lbs, it's the lightest I have seen of the quality push mowers. The Lawnboy10640 looks good too, but it gives up an inch on the front wheels and the blade, and my bumpy and large yard make these factors important to me. These two mowers also revive the B&S vs Honda engine comparison, but I get the point that both are good and will serve me well as long as I take care of them and whatever the power, should be enough. Still, I read the Cub Cadet thread and I also like to have the data and analyze it myself, with the help of the forum too. So, I am going to give the push Honda a try and if that doesn't crank my motor, I will get the Toro SR 20092 and be done with it. Yep, the B&S one, aluminum deck, 5mph top speed. Red is a faster color too. The quandry continues, and the grass keeps growing, but not under my feet. Cheers....See MoreAny Ideas on How to Break Ground?
Comments (16)Petalpatsy - what do you mean by growth medium? I see your seedling bed is on a steeper slope than mine, so maybe it won't be as dire as my hubby predicts. (The more daylilies I have, the less he likes them.) Why do you suggest greensand? What are the benefits of it? How close do you plant your baby seedlings? Would 12" be O.K.? I planted about half of last year's seedlings that close, and now I've got to move them. The other half I spaced at 2' intervals and they have really multiplied, although they are just a year old. The bed is 30' by 100' - a little much for me to handle with a fork. Cynthia, I do like that U-Bar fork - that looks like a great idea - haven't seen one like that. greenbean, thanks for the info on the San Angelo bar, because we do have some bare spots on our clay hill upon which nothing will grow -- not even weeds. BTW, I used to live in San Angelo, too - many years ago. My dad was the resident engineer (Corps of Engineers) over the construction of the SA Dam and Reservoir. We lived out by the site. I remember the tarantulas, and especially those little red velvet spiders that used to come out after rains. I've never seen them anywhere else in Texas. I also remember my mother sending me out in the winter to hang the wash on the clothesline. The bed linens and towels would be frozen stiff within a minute or two. In the summer, there were no ACs back then, just evaporative coolers. Our local landscaper returned my call today -- he told us to scarify the plot with the teeth on a box blade, running it in all directions, including diagonally. He said that had to be done first, before using a disk. My helper got that done this afternoon. Now I have a nice big garden spot with very black gummy soil. He also told me to add gypsum. I hope it doesn't rain before we can get it disked....See MoreVa. High Court Breaks New Ground on Tree Liability
Comments (16)I've read this thread a number of times now and would like to re open the discussion in lieu of the last couple of remarks. Yes trees can cause damage to homes, so does UV radiation, some insects, and also wild fires, storms, floods, etc...The point is here that the perceived damage from trees far exceeds the actual damages. In fact the odds of a tree killing a member of the public is about 1:20,000,000 or less than being killed by lightning strikes. Yet where do we consider the damages to the community in the loss of large maturing canopy trees that provide a net benefit in hard dollars to communities through all the services trees provide for free. Another point about small trees in small lots. Trees with canopies that mature under thirty feet take up space in the same areas that we need for human activity. In contrast a tree with a mature height of seventy feet can easily be pruned to allow for canopy coverage above a structure while still allowing for people to have branches clear of their structures and giving them room to walk and play underneath. Point three: Many of these tree "problems" have an ultimate people cause. Compacted soils causing root growth in the upper portions of the soils, poor sidewalk or patio designs that actually create great spaces for tree roots to grow just below the concrete due to condensation, over fertilizing of lawns that cause fast growth and can lead to premature shedding of tree parts, over pruning or bad pruning which can lead to whole or partial tree failures, removal of neighboring trees that help protect other trees, and the list can go on and on... Yes trees can sometimes cause some problems for people, but in the end we need them for quality of life. Tree law at this point is just beginning to recognize the longevity of trees, as opposed to the short occupancy of most homeowners. The laws are beginning to take into account that trees are not static things, but change from year to year. We still have a long way to go on this one, but I fear that litigation and regulation is going to create an environment where no tree reaches maturity before it is deemed a "hazard" and removed only to be replaced with a much smaller tree producing less quality of life for our community....See MoreBreaking up new ground for garden
Comments (9)I have had good luck on grassy sod using the modified lasagna method. I only used what I had on hand: A layer of very wet newspapers (several thicknesses), a layer of old alfalfa hay and some straw. During the winter I would lift a section and layer in my kitchen waste which was mostly coffee grounds and egg shells with some green stuff. By spring (did this in the fall) I could dig in the sod with my hands by lifting the mulch and then planting. I only did this with roses and tomato plants and some daylilies. I didn't use it for seeds. Of course I don't have hard pan or clayey soil or even very rocky ground....I lucked out in that department. It has been several years ago and I now need to layer some flakes of the old hay back in place again just to keep things neat. If you have access to more organic matter such as grass clippings and manure that will speed up the process. You could also first plant a green manure crop shallowly and then begin layering right over it. once it gets some size. Good luck. I am curious why you want to go so deep?...See Morekompressor
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