If replacing the rubber faced wheel, there are 4 bolts to remove, and the disc, then install the new wheel and bolt it together. To replace the aluminum disc, which is on the crankshaft, you will probably have to loosen the engine mounting bolts, raise the engine up on blocks of wood, then get under the back end, and using a hammer and a bar, spin the disc off the piece that is held onto the crankshaft.. It is standard right-hand thread, so you would turn it to the left to remove it. If you do not remove the mounting collar with it, just spin the disc off and spin the other one on, and tighten it up with the same tools you loosened it with. Some folks say to remove the engine, but it isn't necessary. A pair of octopus arms are helpful, but you only get those from many years of mechanical and auto body work! NOTE: The correct spacing of the disc is: From the face of the disc to the smooth, engine mounting flange face is 3 7/8 inches. Some say--to the top of the engine mounting area at the big hole--but, it amounts to the same measurement, and is easier to do the way i do it. For this work, it is best to jack the mower up high, and set it on jack stands at the rear. Block the front wheels. use a long 3/8 inch extension, socket and ratchet to get to the engine mtg. bolts!

Josmoe, "Scotts tractors were sold by Home Depot and built on the cheap by John Deere" The internet is an amazing place where the misinformed can spout off. You might want to do some research before offering up your wisdom. The Scotts tractors, made by John Deere in a John Deere facility, were an outgrowth of the Sabre program, which was an effort to bring a quality, lower cost lawn tractor to the mass market. Essentially, the Scotts, like the Sabre, was based on the existing STX38 and STX46 designs with some changes (engine, front wheel bearings, front axle, tires and cosmetics) to hit that lower price point. Everything else was 'the same' as the STX. These were good homeowner machines - certainly superior to their competition at the time. They were efficient, safe and reliable. For customers who needed a more robust tractor, Deere offered a premium line of lawn care equipment. Since you are so disgusted that you broke a traction drive belt on your 12-year old Scotts, I suggest you stick with a Murray or Craftsman in the future and see how 'satisfied' you are. And, yes, my S2046 Scotts is still going strong, thank you very much. And, yes, I do maintain it.

Well, I set off to replace my belts in this way. Undoing the engine bolt worked eventually, though I had to heat it up with a gas gun then hit the end with an impact wrench. Unfortunately that's where things fouled up. The pulleys were seized on. I tried a seriously strong puller, which only bent the pulleys out of shape. So - lateral thinking........ The things that are stopping the belts coming off are the keeps - two rods down the sides of the pulleys. It turns out that they are only held on by half-inch gripper nuts at the top, and are easily removed. Now the belts are free to drop off the pulleys. Further round the system there's a silver coloured link thing. Undo the bolt at the link end, then undo the nut holding the pulley. Shift the pulley out along its shaft so that the belt can clear the keep. There's a big spring in the way, but you can manoeuvre the the belt round it. That gets both front belts off and back on. I haven't tried to get the short belt at the back off, because it looks like you have to take the rear axle off. Bernie

Check out the attachment. Page 7, step 8 says you have to use a 15mm socket to move the idler sheave and tensioning arm toward the front of the tractor (there is a picture). This should relieve the tension on the belt. Here is a link that might be useful: Link