Wheat berry refers to the entire kernel of the wheat seed. This is what would be ground into flour or used for other applications, bulgar, etc. An individual wheat plant is only about 24" tall. One wheat berry when planted will (hopefully) produce one glume, the infloresence / seed producing structure at the top of the plant. Each glume may contain up to 20 or so individual wheat berries, depending on the variety. Wheat is an annual, meaning that it grows, produces seed and dies in one growing season. If you were to only plant a few wheat berries, you will get a few plants and a few new wheat berries. Try going to your local co-op and see if they have whole wheat berries. Provided it's not a hybrid, you should be able to plant and grow them successfully. I would try planting it in a large pot 12" or so. Plant fairly thickly, cover lightly and water. At worst you'll have a big pot of ornamental grass, at best, you might get some harvestable wheat. Good luck.

There is another concern, that you may or may not have heard of, and that deals with the soil's natural bacteria and fungus. If you have a woodland, there is a type of fungus that grows naturally, and a type of bacteria that grows naturally, let's call them Type A. On an established lawn, there is a natural type of fungus, and of bacteria that grows naturally, but the problem is that they are Type B. Now that the woods are torn down, there is plenty of Type A fungus beneath the soil, but not Type B, which you need. Mycorrhiza is the specific type of fungus that you need: it attaches (grows from) the plant roots, outward into the soil, and helps the roots do a better job. Google that word, and you can find a lot of articles about it. Here's a link to Bio-Vam, which is a product that I have used, with great success. My office lawn was installed with topsoil that had apparently been sitting around in a bin somewhere for a year or two, and nobody could grow a lawn on that soil. I had just moved into the office, and, purely coincidentally, had just read an article on mycorrhiza fungus, and a highway project, and the difference it had made. Short version of the story (I'm leaving out the secret spray of the product in an evening, then openly declaring, next day, that no one had ever toasted the lawn gods with Irish whiskey, and made the partners come out to do it with me) was that there was a noticeable difference in seven days, and an outstanding difference in three weeks. I am convinced, totally, on the subject of mycorrhiza. I recommend Bio Vam only because it's the only product that I have used. I don't know if it's expensive, nor if it's cheap. It's the only one I have used. But I would seed the lawn, let it sprout, and spray the mycorrihiza. I would also fertilize with Milorganite, or some other sewage-based fertilizer product (there are several brands available on the East coast), as they won't burn the lawn. It's true you're going to lose some percentage of that seeded lawn. Fifty percent? Twenty Five? Ten? If you planted in the fall, you would also lose some percentage of that lawn. A lower percentage? Probably. But it's a function of how well you are able to keep the seed, and then those seedlings, moist but not wet. Keep the hose and nozzle moving, no puddling allowed. No puddles. But most new grass plants are lost when they're about the height of a dime (the ten cent coin) laying flat on the ground. At that height, they can dry out in an hour or two, less if there's a hot sunny, windy day. There's no root to let it grab moisture (the root hasn't grown yet) so there's no sense in any 'deep' watering. Just mist it. But if you do that, then when tomorrow gets here, that little plant will be a little more healthy, a little more tall, with a root a little more deep. And the next day. And the next day. Good luck with it. Here is a link that might be useful: Bio Vam mycorrhiza fungus

mindy, no I didn't know that. That explains why B.A. would carry something destined for commonness. Isn't B.A. a specialty place? never been there. donna, I missed the good early foliage. Mine is in a part-sun area, probably leaning towards more sun rather than less. 4-5 hours of sun I think. (although unless I pay attention real closely, I find that I perceive a lot of sun-shade measurements that don't actually bear true). I would say mine could be called lime green this summer. Very appealing. I saw a tinge of a few leaf edges coloring up last time I looked. We are expecting some nights in the 40's this week. That should get things going. hmmm... I just did a google images for dreamcatcher and all the pictures showed up bright yellow. I thought I was expecting more remarkable color than that??? THe ends have some orange. Actually, practically all the hits are the same picture. mass marketing in action!

I like your diagram. Are you in Ontario, Canada? If so, purple fountain grass will not survive your winter. The maiden grass, miscanthus, will get the largest. 5 foot circle for it, could get 5 feet tall. Switch grass, maybe a 3 foot circle, might go 4 feet tall. The fescue is small, and stays that way. Only need a 1 foot circle, maybe 1 foot tall. You want all your grasses together? Me, I think the neatest thing about grasses is the contrasts they make with other unrelated plants. So I mix grasses with perennials and annuals and shrubs and roses and conifers. That's not to say you must do as I do. It's just an idea for your consideration. Get thee to a library or good bookstore. Find some books on ornamental grasses. Check the sections on designing with grasses. You will see some neat pictures. Copy those designs if you like them. And beware of buying too many grasses, for they are easy to divide. You can buy one grass, and if it has a good large base, you can just chop it into fourths and you will then have 4 plants that will fill in rather quickly. Seeing that your plantings are only a few months old, it should be no trouble to move them now. Do a little research and then get busy.