Thanks for the help. I mowed to just under 4" and maybe the grass wasn't quite as tall as I thought in most spots. Sometimes I felt like nothing was getting cut, but some of it was easily 6"+. The grass felt super plush when I walked on it, so I'm hoping I didn't do too much damage because I would love to keep it like that. I've watered lightly twice a day for the last two weeks and decided to back off to a slightly heavier watering once a day now that it looks like most of the grass that sprouted is at least 1". When should I stop doing that and start the "deep and infrequent" watering again? After the first mowing of the new stuff?

Hi Jenifer, I tried to get to the post office today before 12:00, and did actually but they were closed. Bad enough they have such stinky hours but then they had the nerve to close early on a Saturday! Ugh. Anyway I'll get my package in the mail on monday. This is only my second year trading seeds so I'm a bit of a novice. Just wondering on grass seeds, I put about three little heads of the bunny tails grass in each bag, is that good? Also I have some other taller perennial grasses the have big fronds do I just pull it all away from the main stem and shove some in a bag? Thanks. Eileen

Spotty higher pH can happen if you got the soil off of one particular section of the pile...that happened to contain the old B horizon with some limestone in it! In my case, I got the old subsoil on my lot, so it just kind of stank all around. * You said you targeted our phosphorus level higher than your own lawn. Is this due to the pH difference or something else? Is phosphorus bound in the soil at higher pH's, and is our pH (7.1 - 7.3) high enough to cause that? pH. If you look at the availability of P by pH, it drops as pH rises above seven. You're not that far over, the binding isn't extreme, so I just boosted the numbers a little bit. Your standard is around 220, most people with slightly acidic pH would be around 200. In your case, I wouldn't blink at anything between 200 and 300. I never use my own soil as a standard, per se, for anybody else's. Mine have given in to some experimental stuff, plus I've over-enhanced the gardens to match the (extreme) density and (extraordinarily high) performance I demand they support. My current P levels in the garden push 1,000. * What kind of quality issues can we expect from the low phosphorus level until it's corrected? Thin, weak, sparse growth that gets sick and dies easily, discolors easily, grows poorly, and generally doesn't look at all good. Installed sod would tend to thin out and die back over the course of a year or so if it isn't corrected, resulting in a lot of thin patches and blank areas. N, P, and K are the big three and absolutely have to be there in the correct proportions (N we take care of on an as-needed basis). * It sounds like the Milorganite is great stuff, but I'm very sensitive to odors, so I don't think it's a good fit for our lawn. If we used ferrous sulfate instead (being careful to sweep it off the concrete), what rate and frequency would you recommend? I assume we don't need to worry about lowering the soil pH too much with the ferrous sulfate since the starting pH is above 7.0. I'd be comfortable with ferrous sulfate (monohydrate or pentahydrate, it doesn't matter) at 3 pounds per thousand square feet in April, early October, and perhaps early November if the weather's holding. Keep an eye on the pH in this case, though, as iron sulfate is about an eighth as acidifying as pure elemental sulfur and does NOT require digging in to work! Never use iron during hotter months or when the soil's going to freeze solid for winter within two or three weeks of use.

here are few more photos these are in my backyard. seem like the same plant. 1st one is 7 inches tall and the other 2 photos seems like the same plant but fully matured.