Treated Wood Greenhouse Frame
hdcochran
17 years ago
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bihai
17 years agotom_n_6bzone
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Suggestions on making greenhouse benches out of metal bed frames?
Comments (5)That little bench is just darling halley_rose! In our area, we have some recycled lumber places. One sells cedar 2X4s at 40 cents a foot, Or, you could paint the wood you have with a nice solid color deck stain- it would look nice and be more durable. Bed frames do work for such things. I've gotten them for $3 a set at my favorite thrift store. They do have to be supported so they don't twist and your slats pop out tho. Have fun!...See MoreDo I REALLY need treat wood trusses?
Comments (20)Another approach, even with cedar materials, is to use a non-toxic wood sealer. Quoted from another post: "Protecting the wood is probably not as important as it seems where the wood is not in contact with soil. Avoid wood sealers that contain preservatives such as pentachlorophenol (a now restricted pesticide). Many "deck sealers" and outdoor wood stains contain gross carcinogenic poisons. You probably don't want these materials in your greenhouse. The best protection against humidity is a single coat of melted paraffin wax (a penetrating wood pore sealer), brushed on the surface. This is a little messy, sticky and somewhat difficult to apply. You could rub it out with lint free rags and give it a couple of coats of shellac to reduce the stick. The next best (non-high tech i.e. two part epoxy finish) would be 2 or preferably 3 coats of two-part polyurethane gloss varnish or 3 to 6 coats of marine spar varnish. Deck furniture is coated with several coats of marine spar varnish. Varnishes need to be renewed every year with a single coat or they will crack, eliminating the moisture barrier effectiveness. 3 coats of shellac will provide some protection. Shellac needs regular maintanance, too. For all finishes, lightly sand with 120 grit sandpaper between each coat but not after the final coat. Obviously, these suggestions are an attempt to provide as complete protection against humidity and fungus growth as possible. If you can live with your wood aging "gracefully", you can relax your finishing techniques. Don't finish the wood if it has high internal moisture. Wait until it is dry. Much information is available on the US Forest Products Laboratory website at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us" If you are building a GH as an objet d'art, go with the cedar, mahogony, or teak and marine spar varnish. This is the classic wood GH finish (and yachts, deck chairs, etc.). For the situations where there are termites and other agressive wood borers, you need to work with them. Use baited termite stakes like Norm and Co. on TOH. These traps give the termites some wood (actually cellulose) that they can get to more easily around the perimeter of the GH that is laced with a little poison. Here is a link that might be useful: Forest Products Laboratory...See MoreFirst time poster, noob q about building a wood frame greenhouse
Comments (10)Just an FYI about pressure-treated wood: the stuff you buy from Lowe's or Home Depot is not of a grade meant for contact with the ground, or below ground. On the yellow tag stapled to the end is a tiny number beside ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary compound) which will read .25 or .40. The .25 treatment is only for above-ground, and .40 for ground contact. There are also .60 and .80 treatments, but those are more difficult to find and quite a bit more expensive, and are meant for marine use. In the years I've used PT wood in my gh structures, first in Vero Beach, and now in the Panhandle, I've never had a carpenter ant or termite give the wood a second look. (As a matter of fact, I once had termites destroy a piece of untreated plywood attached to a PT 2x4...ignoring the 2x4.) The termites are thick here, and will quickly make short work of untreated wood. If it's treated to a sufficient degree, the copper acts as an effective detterent. I have seen ACQ .25 2x4s begin to swell and weaken when half-buried, after perhaps 7-8 years. BTW, when using PT wood, you must use either stainless steel fasteners or ones that are coated. The ACQ will cause ordinary fasteners to corrode. Depending upon how you've designed your roof, the span, and the pitch, you may or may not need to have it strong enough to support your weight on the rare occasion you need to climb up there. That's why the selection of denser wood grades may be important. -Bruce...See Moreconstructing a greenhouse using gazebo as frame
Comments (9)hi Horse of a different color lol. Isn't it amazing how much different zone 10 Cal is from Fla.?? I maintain a screenroom,shadehouse,and grow a bunch as garden plants with temporary structures. Or let's say i used to lol. Frances and Jeanne damaged almost everything but Wilma took them out lol. The state took my orange trees because of disease and I had 50 orchids attached to them. had to move them all in two days!! My only real survivor was the screen room and aviary but you don't keep orchids with parrots lol So I'm trying to rebuild to a structure that works,thought it would be a great time to really have a temp,controlled greenhouse.that really works for the HOTHOUSE i mean Florida lol. Don't mind spending the money but want a structure that works!! had even thought of refrigeration but think I'll stick with warm growers. Anyway,i could tell you what i do for winter protection but doubt it would be useful in Cal. even in 10. Cold is such a temporary thing here counted in hours rather than days but it sure can be enough to be fatal. if your interested I'll go into detail Designing a useful greenhouse in this climate is certainly difficult but i have some brilliant ideas and this time I'll get it right LOL Sorry i couldn't be of more help to you and good luck with your project!!! gary...See Moretom_n_6bzone
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