The amount of organic matter in soil is important, even though most all of the Ag school soil test labs do not recognize that fact, again. However there are simple soil tests you can do that can help, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Looking at your O.M., potassium, phosphorus and boron numbers I'm gonna guess that you use a lot of manure. I'm personally not a big fan of manure because of the salts and boron. You might have naturally high boron and/or P/K where you are but I'm gonna stick with my hunch unless informed otherwise. A boron value greater than 1.0 ppm is high enough to cause a broad range of plants to show symptoms of boron toxicity. Your are at more than 5 times that level. (I'm gonna take another wild guess and say that their 'E' stands for 'excessive') The symptoms vary from plant to plant because it's mobile in some plants and not in others but one common thread in vegetables is reduced yield. The higher the number, the more severe the effect on yield. Unfortunately boron is very difficult to leach and you'll probably always have a problem with it. Here's another fun fact. You're pH is higher than preferred but if you do anything to decrease it, like incorporating soil sulfur, you'll put more boron into solution, making it more available to plants. That would increase boron toxicity problems. Ta da! Welcome to the wonderful word of boron! Did your soil test say anything about salinity? I bet that's a fun number too. For now don't add anything (K:Mg ratio is the least of your worries at this point), pick crops with tolerance to boron in the soil and cross your fingers. You might want to try running a few very thorough leaching irrigations to at least try to flush some of that boron out of the root zone. (But don't get your hopes up too high). If you decide to do that, the O.M. will keep the soil wet for a long time so make sure to give it plenty of time to dry out a little bit between irrigations to avoid creating anaerobic soil conditions. Also, leaching irrigations will just run off of a saturated soil, which won't do you any good. Surface and subsoil drainage have to be sufficient to allow water to move through the soil profile for leaching to be effective. If drainage is impeded, well, we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. Also, are you sure you copied down your base saturation percentages correctly? I don't see sodium but you can usually calculate the percentage of one of the base forming cations by subtracting the known values from 100 but even without sodium, yours add up to over 117%. You'll sometimes see 99% or 101% including all base forming cations plus hydrogen due to rounding errors but greater than 117 means something is wonky there. Here's another thing to consider. Are you sure it was a good representative sample? Lets say you added something like, oh....I don't know...manure? And then you grabbed your sample from one spot in the garden. If you picked up a big slug of manure in the sample, you could get falsely high values. Then everything we've been talking about wouldn't count for bupkis. When collecting a soil sample, it should be a composite of soil collected from the entire depth of the root zone at multiple locations.

I have not seen a garden soil tested for microbes, very interesting. Given the other results, especially the high organic matter from adding all that compost, and the fact that you're growing good worms in it, I would have assumed it was a very microbially active and healthy soil. It would only be a very useful test if there was some kind of problem with the soil (or, more to the point, the plants) that you were trying to diagnose. Basically you have a healthy microbe population as stated by someone else earlier. Chemical fertilizers don't actually harm microbes if applied in a reasonable amount. However, gardeners who use them tend to be the ones who neglect organic matter levels - in other words, they rely on fertilizer to feed plants rather than compost to feed the soil. So there might be a correlation between fertilizer use and a poor soil food web, but one does not necessarily cause the other.

different plants have different requirements so it's not unusual to see different levels of performance from one plant type to the other under the same conditions. Also remember that soil chemistry can vary from spot to spot depending on what has been applied there in the past, what has been grown there, how much it has been watered,etc. There is also just natural variability in the soil. A soil test can give you a general idea of the average chemistry if you do a composite (grabbing soil from a bunch of spots and combining it into one sample) but you still have some variability. Another thing to consider is that anything that has a negative impact on root function can inhibit nutrient uptake and can contribute to the appearance of deficiency symptoms. Things like root disease, soil compaction, root pruning, etc. Over watering and under watering can also negatively affect nutrient uptake. If you add some compost, ensure that the soil isn't compacted and their are no disease or pest issues and soil moisture is sufficient without being excessive, and the trees don't respond in a reasonable amount of time, then maybe thinking about adding manganese specifically.