Soil test results. What should I do?
akhwood • Zone 10B
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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akhwood • Zone 10B
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Seeded lawn in August, have soil test results, what do I do now?
Comments (2)Head on over to your local Clemson Extension office and have a talk with your agent. Don't worry about your analysis being old -- especially if you haven't done anything to your soil. Other Key questions: What type of grasses are you trying to grow -- Centipede takes a totally different care regime than Fescue or Bahia... What is your soil PH What soil type do you have? Now.... Looking at my recent analysis -- those are all Lbs/Acre -- not PPM measurements... P looks really low K looks medium low Ca should be plenty Mg is probably OK My guess is that you are going to be using some sort of balanced "premium" slow release fertilizer with minor elements -- like a 10-10-10 slow release or a 17-17-17 slow release... But It is going to be totally dependent on the type of grass and your soil type. Thanks...See MoreNew soil + New compost + Soil test = mixed results
Comments (9)I'm a doofus. I missed the fact that the analysis was conducted on your 2/3 soil to 1/3 mushroom compost blend. Anyway, my comment about 0.0 ppm available nitrogen stands. I think it's a lab error. My comments about salinity also stand because we don't know the starting salinity of the compost or the soil. That being said, the final blend is 23% O.M. by dry weight, which is super high. If the mushroom compost was 1/3 of the final blend by volume, that would put you in the 7 to 8% organic range by dry weight if mixed with a mineral soil. And that's if the compost itself were high in organic material. (The analyses I looked at for the compost ranged from about 30 to 60% O.M. by dry weight). So, it would be a safe bet that your 4-way soil is probably around 15% O.M. by dry weight or a little higher. That means that it was probably about 50% to 60% organic material by volume and who the heck knows what that O.M. was. If it was raw wood chips, you would still have some available nitrogen in the analysis, but potentially not enough to balance carbon and it's feasible that you do indeed have a nitrogen draw issue. Or, if it has a heavy manure component, that could contribute to salts. (even a high quality greenwaste compost will often have a salinity level of 5 to 7 dS/m). Also consider that such a high amount of organic matter has the potential to hold too much water, especially if drainage isn't all that great at the bottom of the planters....See Moresoil test results...what to do...what to do...
Comments (21)Hmmmm...horse manure is horse manure :-) Even when properly composted itself, it is not exactly a balanced product but can be used as an ingredient in a composting operation that includes other ingredients. And it is not a good idea to use the uncomposted manure of virtually any ruminant on a garden that will be used to grow edible crops. Horses have rather incomplete digestive systems. They are essentially a feeding tube and what goes in comes out relatively undisturbed :-) Weed or grain seeds pass through undigested. They also do not metabolize all the nutrients well and repeated use of even composted horse manures can result in a build up of certain minerals (magnesium is the biggie) to toxic concentrations over time. They are often treated with dewormers and these too get passed through without full digestion. And since worms are good for the garden, adding worm killers in any form is a bit counterproductive. If you use horse manure, or any other ruminant manure for that matter, make sure it is hot composted before use (or at the very least, very well aged) to eliminate any pathogens and to reduce the likelihood of weeds being generated. And if given the choice, opt for cow manure first -- their more efficient digestive system will result in a better composting product....See MoreDo I need more organic matter? (Soil test results)
Comments (22)In addition to tox's very good comments, let me add this. We tend to think of stuff like compost, composted manures, chopped leaves, grass clippings, etc. as organic matter when they should really be considered as organic material. There is a significant difference. The organic 'materials' will continue to break down and decompose over time and shrink as much as 90% in volume before they actually become organic 'matter'. Organic material is very temporary and changeable - organic matter is pretty stable in the soil. It is the relatively permanent and stable levels of organic matter that soil labs test for (if they do that type of testing). So a 50-50 mix of soil and compost is unlikely to be an excessive amount of OM......once it fully breaks down - which will happen quite rapidly, usually within a single growing season - it should put you somewhere in the 5-8% range that is most desirable. Based on how this process actually works, I would argue that it is pretty near impossible to have too much organic matter!! I wrote about this in another thread and included this LINK that you might find useful and explains this concept very well. btw, I would not be concerned about adding any rabbit manure - the level of potassium it contains is negligible....See Moreakhwood • Zone 10B
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoakhwood • Zone 10B
8 years agojean001a
8 years ago
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