OK, well your pH is low, but that's easier to fix than high pH, and I would wait a month between lime applications, longer if you don't get much rain. Nitrogen is an easy fix with fertilizer, but I would definitely wait till early fall, when it is cooler, because adding a lot of nitrogen now can increase fungal disease incidence. I used the Scott's fungal control and I still got brown patch, but only on my spring seeded tall fescue. Don't do any seeding until late summer or early fall. I know Georgia is a lot hotter than CT, but you are in the mountains, so I assume your climate is cooler than say Atlanta. Regardless, seeding in the summer is a losing proposition, get your lawn in the best possible shape to seed in the early fall. When you do overseed, pick the cultivars that do the best in your area, check the ntep trials for this info.

Well, since you're talking turfgrass, your options are somewhat limited. There's really no practical way to increase the OM in the soil in the near term. Keep mulch mowing. According to the folks at OSU's REAL, you're in the right range except for high pH, very low P and somewhat low K (link below to their Acceptable levels for lawns). Your dilemma is lowering pH while increasing P. First, before you take anyone's advice I would encourage you to discuss the results with your local county Ag extension agent. He/she will have local knowledge and can better steer you than about anyone else. With that as a caveat, I believe what you want is an ammonium phosphate fertilizer (e.g. MAP @ 11-52-0 or DAP @ 18-46-0 ), and then separately potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to bring the K in line. All should be available from local ag/farm supply or feed stores. But, don't take my word for it - talk with your county agent first. Here is a link that might be useful: Interpreting a Soil Test for Lawns

It is a very nice initial test! The full read is below. ME 13.8: Probably silt with some sand and possibly a little clay. It's a nice soil, holds plenty of resources, and will easily support anything you want to throw at it. pH 6.6: On the nose. Although on the nose does vary from 6.2 to 6.8, you're at a good balance point for your soil. OM 5.7%: In the Good range, so no special effort needs to be made. Certainly I'd mulch mow, mow all fall leaves, and that kind of stuff, but wouldn't add anything to the regimen specifically. Sulfur 8: While technically a tad trim, it's not a problem. Most methods of raising this are ineffective anyway. Phosphorus 205: The target is 200, so this is perfect. Calcium 72%: A touch high, but not a problem in any sense. Grasses (and most plants) don't care about a little extra calcium. Magnesium 11%: Perfect. Potassium 5%: On the high side, but that's a good thing. I'm a fan of having a little extra K. Minor Elements: Boron could use a minor kick, but it's so marginal I'm calling this optional. Boron 0.56: A tad trim, the target is 0.70. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: May 15 (optional): Apply 2 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet.

Someone sent me a link to this thread a couple weeks ago and I'm now just getting around to reading it... so I realize this response is coming really late as you may have already taken steps to deal with the issue. As already noted earlier in the thread it would appear that Phosphorus is exceedingly high.... much higher than the others also graphed at "Very High".... however I believe the graphical representation can be very misleading here. Unless that graphic scale used is logarithmic, which I don't believe it is, then the bars have a max peak and once reached it stops regardless of any excess beyond that max graph limit (example: 100ppm and 300ppm would give the same graphical representation even though one is 3x the other)... this means if the bars were to continue to scale they would go off the end of the page and would show phosphorus by far higher than all the others... much higher. Its over 3X the limit where it will begin seriously binding up iron, zinc, and copper. I believe this is actually an odd case of Liebig's Law of Minimums. Which micronutrient is the minimum? hard to tell at this point since all three are being affected by the presence of that excessive phosphorus overload. How to tell which one or combination is the issue? Apply a foliar application of each (a different one each week) and note the plant growth response over the following week... an increase will point you to the micro that's at minimum in the soil. Chelated versions of these minerals could also be applied to the soil but foliar will show a quicker response. You can even use sulfates of these minerals in foliar applications if they are easier for you to obtain (they will certainly be a lot cheaper than chelated versions)... alternatively if you're not interested in tracking down the precise micronutrient minimums, you could just shot-gun it with a general liquid micronutrient foliar application. If that solves the problem then you'll either need to continue with micronutrient foliar applications every other week or so for the next several years or you'll have to dilute the soil in your beds to bring the phosphorus levels under control within a season. A suggestion would be to remove about half of the soil in the raised beds and spread that around your yard and trees or perhaps you could build more raised beds and add it there. Then fill the beds back up with more soil however one that's low on organic matter... and quit adding manure applications... and what compost you do add should be mostly browns and then use feather meal to beef up nitrogen as it will eventually be needed. You might also want to plant daikon radishes this winter to help suck up some phosphate. These are just some suggestions from a non-expert soil guy... whatever you choose to do, I hope you do solve the issue you are having and hopefully next year's crops will fare much better for you. Good luck there.