'shade' means little ... on words alone bright shade.. cave ... very bright.. etc ... its hard to be definitive.. w/o being able to understand such ... i have some full sun plants.. in near all day shade.. from 60 foot trees.. but there is clear blue sky above.. apparently.. they get enough light.. that said.. the bigger the flower.. usually means.. the more energy they need.. and as light declines.. its ability to make a lot of large flowers starts to falter.. i guess when it all boils down.. you are just going to have to try things.. also... for most of the growing season.. 4 to 9 or 10 pm.. is a heck of a lot of sun ... presuming that is what you meant ... when 8 hours is usually considered full sun ... there isnt really much that will out and out die ... its all about vigor and performance.. and if something struggles.. you move it to more light ... if you have it ... i am sure our friends will come up with many specific suggestions ... and also keep in mind that a lot of the 'shade' plants are just shade tolerant ... and can take a lot of sun.. usually based on how well they are watered.. its all about whether the plant has enough water.. to offset increased sun.. e.g. hosta... its when they transpire more water than they are able to process .... that they start getting real ugly ... ken

Hi Jenn - I know this is old but I'm taking a chance that maybe you're still around! If you do check in, just wondering what you've learned over the last few years. Our backyard is in the exact same orientation, and we have the same conditions -- only 4-5 hours of sun, but it's afternoon sun in the summer growing season. And then very little direct sun in the winter. I suppose I could just take a chance and plant, right...??? ;)

Since many people here don't water enough - if at all - many of the Camellia japonica shrubs seen around in sunny positions have very poor foliage color. Frequently the north side of such specimens is green, where the plant is actually shading and protecting itself. And the flowers of examples so located tend to be regularly badly scorched as well, a problem with this shrub in frosty climates generally (we also have camellia petal blight in this area). For general garden purposes, particularly in a sunny position a Sasanqua camellia would be a better choice. These actually prefer a warm position in cool climates, and also tend to produce a looser more informal growth lending itself well to informal planting. Another bonus point goes to their flowers often being fragrant. The various C. x williamsii cultivars are also much better landscaping subjects here than C. japonica, which particularly in the large-flowered forms prevalent at outlets really looks and performs as though it should be used mostly as a tubbed specimen under glass - indeed British references recommend it specifically as excellent for conservatories.

Something already trained as a standard might work to have foliage above the fence especially since fence casts complete full shade except for 2 hours. Shop at an independent nursery for suggestions. May take awhile to find what you like since that's a tough spot if full shade. I've grown these in dappled shade spots using the reflected light from a white home, so you might try: -ornamental grass: feather reed types -Kerria: deciduous & can be trained up a pillar like a rose, but easier care (yellow blooming in late spring with year round green stems) Left to it's own will be a suckering sprawling shrub -evergreen huckleberry (taller in shade than sun, slow grower) -native salal: endures pruning to shape & grows taller in shade (doesn't transplant well from existing gardens; then you can't get rid of it once established... unless you're diligent with removing the spreading roots. I've pulled & pulled over years. Only way I removed successfully was when I excavated the entire area. Beware!) -golden hops (research before you plant in the ground - another one to watch carefully, but when grown well is spectacular during the growing season & dormant in winter) Great plant picks is a good site to view at link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Calamagrostis acutiflora âKarl Foersterâ