It's been a very long time since I've read a "body bag" on a rose, but they used to have "mounding" instructions printed directly on them. In "the good, old days" nurseries used to give cardboard "rose sleeves" away with the bare roots to place around them when planted, for you to fill with dirt as the instructions above state. You watered directly into the top of the cone or sleeve to keep that soil and that under the rose damp. Maintaining the whole plant in a cool, damp, dark state encourages it to absorb water, prevents it from drying out until it forms sufficient new roots to take up enough water to grow, encourages it to form those roots instead of being stimulated to develop leaves and new canes. As many of us have seen from bare roots as well as cuttings, too much light and heat stimulates them to develop foliage, try to grow new canes and even flower using the resources stored in the wood before any roots are formed. I've had both push flowers and leaves then totally collapse because there was no root system under the plant to support it. It's the same issue seen with wrapping cuttings. If it's too warm, they won't root, but will try to push new growth from the growth buds, resulting in failure. As new growth develops, you slowly remove the soil in the sleeve to expose increasingly greater amounts of the plant until it is gradually hardened off, used to the normal garden conditions. This can be wonderfully accomplished during a longer period of rainy weather, just as transplanting and setting out newly rooted plants can be. The cooler, more over cast, more humid conditions are perfect for all of these projects. Trevor Griffiths wrote in one of his great books, a customer brought him a dried out, "dead" bare root he'd purchased from him demanding a refund. Mr. Griffiths buried the plant in damp soil, then planted it in a bag of soil where it flourished, grew and flowered as expected. He wrote that was the plant he frequently took to lectures and presentations to rose groups to illustrate how difficult it is to kill a rose as long as you know what you're doing. I purchased heavy gauge plastic rose sleeves from Gurney Seed back in the early to mid 80s which I used for over fifteen years before they finally wore out. I then began making them from cardboard boxes, even many sheets of newspaper, both of which worked perfectly. Taking fifteen or more full sheets of newspaper laid out flat, then folding them in half length wise to make a thick layer, I could take them to the can I'd planted, insert them into the rim of the can and determine how large it needed to be to prevent the water and soil from washing from underneath them and hold the soil in place. I'd then staple them closed to form the sleeve. I planted the rose in the can, but didn't finish filling it to leave a large area of the interior can sides to securely hold the sleeves in place. Once inserted over the plant, I finished filling the sleeves with soil, watering them to settle it in until the sleeve was mostly filled, leaving enough room to water them well without spilling over the sides. Many sheets of newspaper in a thick layer, rolled in a cylinder like that and supported by several inches of the can sides will hold water and soil in place well until new growth is seen. I only left the top few inches of the canes protruding from the soil so the majority of the plant was kept buried in the damp potting soil. As new growth pushed, I removed an inch or two of soil a week until there was enough taken out to permit the sleeve to be removed and the remaining soil to stay in the pot, filling it to the planting depth I wanted in the first place. By then, the cardboard or paper was pretty much ready for removal and could then be disposed of either in recycling or the compost pile. You can save many dried out bare roots simply by "heeling them in", burying them in damp soil, for a few weeks to plump them back up. This shouldn't be done in heavy, dense clay as you do need air circulation around the plant to prevent it from rotting or developing canker. A trench dug deep enough to bury the entire plants, leaving a few inches of soil to cover them fully, should be sufficient. The soil should be of a type you would want for planting, which drains well, yet is moisture retentive. Any good potting soil would be perfect. If you lay lengths of rope perpendicularly across the trenches at the top, middle and bottoms of where the plants are to be buried, then lay the plants down across the ropes, keeping them under the plants, you can tie the ends loosely and fill the trench, leaving the ends out of the rope out of the ground so you know exactly where the plants are. The protruding ends of the ropes help keep the plants together in a bundle, assisting you in finding and removing them. A couple of weeks in that cool, damp, dark environment will frequently rehydrate up to pretty severely dehydrated bare roots. I wouldn't suggest it as the usual procedure, but for extreme cases, it can work wonders. The trenching and ropes have been used for many years to overwinter tender types in harsher climates as well as to hold early arrivals which have been received before it was safe to plant them. Now, suddenly, to many of us, it's new information. There really is nothing new under the sun, except the plumbing Kim

If I get a bareroot late in the season I just pot it up in a container so that I can move it around and keep it in the shade if/when necessary. That is especially helpful if it is really hot outside. Keep it watered and be sure to mist the canes a couple of times daily until it has completely broken dormancy. Come winter time just leave it in it's pot and stick it in an unheated garage or shed to wait out the cold weather. Be sure to water it a few times though. Then next Spring you can transplant it from the pot to where you want it in the garden. John

bulbs are a bit different because they store dry ... think of any onion.... you could probably plant it if its not rotted ... but roots in some saw dust.. can simply just dry out too much ... and it doesnt help ... they are in a plastic bag.. in a paper box .... in a warm store ... had they been held ... is storage.. akin to your vegetable crisper drawer .... you might be surprised how long they could be held ... and that how the mass producers usually do it.. harvest in fall once dormant .... then divide and refrigerate ... until spring packing for sale ... ed.. i once worked at a nursery one spring.. all their stock came in bare root ... and i potted them up ... for a few weeks in the greenhouse.. and then outdoors ... it simply wouldnt be cost efficient to transport tons of potting media ... ken

Think about it. The digging season in the lower 48 is too late for the growers in Alaska to plant in the ground unless there is an exceptional year. They receive roots that have been kept in cold storage in the spring for planting then. If they can do it you can too. Most of the roots you see in packages have also been kept in cold storage unless they have been shipped from the Southern Hemisphere. The only thing is that the plant growth can be retarded by Spring planting but that will happen if in the ground or in a pot. The reason is that the small roots needed to absorb nutrients are not triggered to grow until the ground is cooler. Being planted close to the surface there may also be some thing about the daylight be coming shorter that can also cue the plants. Planting in pots and waiting until fall is up to you but I would recommend placing those pots in the ground rather than exposing them to the heat of the air surrounding the pots. If you do get them established you may have a problem with some of the nematodes eating from their roots as they are more prevalent in certain types of soil. Your soil may also be too alkali for good growth but in that case I do suggest a raised bed. There are some peonies whose ancestors come from alkali areas of the world. Next year the American Peony Society is planned to have their annual meeting in Oregon again. There will be people there that have much more knowledge of the geographic areas that peonies are from than I am. If he is able to come I would suggest finding Don Hollingworth and asking him about the topic. He is either in his late 80's or may be 90 this year. Kind man and loves to answer questions.