Thanks for the feedback. Specifications were not in writing, sad to say. Together the architect and I went over them with the contractor. My husband intends to withhold payment of this portion of the project until we get this figured out. Pam29011 - you are so right. We have had heavy thunderstorms with torrential rains and lots of the path's rock sand whooshed away. the edging is 4" but they failed to restore the grade BEFORE they laid the path. it had gotten built up with the digging of the trench for the drainage pipes. Thankfully, I have the pics to show original, after pipes laid, after path laid. Apparently the contractor told DH that they cannot lay the path deeper without disturbing the drainage pipes. That means to me that they failed to place those pipes deep enough! Oh what a mess! Then, to top that off, the architect pointed out that they plopped the topsoil right over the compacted original clay soil and that this compacted layer needed to be tilled first. I never should have let the carpenters and their laborers to do the landscape work. They gave me a good story about how easy and quick this work would be and how we already had the bobcat rented and on site for the site work that needed to happen for the hvac location. Is this fatal? Will I not be able to grow anything due to compaction a few inches down? Now, instead of going to see our renovation with a happy spring in my step I get a sick feeling in the pit of my stomach.

Lynn, As I understand it you have two main questions. What should you do now with the transplanted citrus to improve their chances of survival and how/when should you transplant the remaining citrus to improve their chances of survival? I would check the small branches on the repotted citrus for life by cutting off a few tips. If the centers still show green your tree has a good chance of survival. If the centers are not green, continue to trim until you see green. If you see no green, the trees are dead. If your trees are alive, do not over water. The roots have probably been damaged to some extent as others have said. Spray the tops with water frequently, but only the tops, or tent them in vented plastic to increase humidity, again as someone else has said. If they are still alive they will probably resprout. As to the second question: others have well addressed soil composition. Another issue is roots drying out. Oklahoma can be very dry and you took about 20 minutes to repot. I think that this is likely to have caused the problem. Repotting in Spring would probably have the advantage of more humid conditions, personally that would not deter me from Fall planting, but I would take extra care, either using water to get soil out of the roots (as described above), or spritzing with a water bottle frequently and covering exposed sections of root that you are not actively working on with plastic. I hope your plants "bounce back". Cath

All modern fridges require at least two inches above, behind, and below the fridge. The air is vented in a circle around the fridge from top-to-front-to-bottom-to-back-to-front, etc. with significant gaps above and below the fridge. Builtins usually cover this gap with grates supplied for above and below. The 30" Freestanding Liebherr manual says: "Unit Venting DO NOT restrict the air flow. Air flow must be provided for the unit to operate. The factory air vents provide 31 square inches (200 cm2) of air flow. If you are replacing the factory air vents with an overlay, the air flow must be the same or greater than the factory air vents." And later: "A gap of at least 2 inches (51 mm) depth must be provided behind and along the entire width of this unit to ensure sufficient ventilation. The area of ventilation above the unit should be at least 18 square inches (116 cm2). The greater the area the more economically the appliance will run." Covering the top gap will reduce the efficiency of the refrigerator. Have a look at the Installation part of your manual.... See my post on the Appliances forum.... Janet Here is a link that might be useful: Related post

I used to get "glue ear" when I was little. I had tubes put in five times. And now that I have used peroxide as well as an alcohol/vinegar mixture in my ears as an adult, I REALLY wonder if over half of my problems as a child could have been avoided if the d@mn doctor (ENT) had just told my mom to put alcohol in my ears every time I got water in them. I seriously think a lot of it was swimmer's ear. That said, do have a doctor check out her ears so you know whether or not the eardrum has been perforated. Even if it has, it was NOT necessarily the peroxide that did it. The fluid buildup could have done it. Both of my eardrums still have perforations. I have used peroxide during a bad earache, and even with the perforation, it can hurt really bad from the fizzing. When that happens, I just dump it out immediately. That immediate release of the fizzing liquid can also cause what feels like a "pop." Earaches can hurt really really bad, yet not cause the perforation. It's just such a delicate system, and pain is the body's way of telling you there's a problem. When you do go to the doctor, ask about using the alcohol and vinegar, as well as the peroxide. That way you have the doc's input as to whether one or the other is better in her situation. And don't let them put you off and say it's a waste of time. I've cleared up an outer ear infection with the alcohol and vinegar as well as gotten a great deal of improvement on an inner ear infection. It CAN work. I hope she feels better soon! A combo sinus/ear infection is the PITS! You might also try getting her to take some Airborne to boost her immune system.