I recently did this. Tilled several "mini garden plots" after covering areas with compost. Removed residue Bermuda and sprayed glyphosate. Waited 2 wks then layed KBG sod out in checker pattern and added layer topsoil and fescue grass seed in between sod. Rolled areas really well with 48" wide roller. Have kept watered really well for over a month. KBG looking great. Can't wait for it to fill in. Such beautiful grass. Is a little bumpy in between but I think as it spreads it should smooth out. Also plan on leveling with more compost and sand next year or next. Plan on using Fusillade to control kill Bermuda as KBG spreads. Hope this helps.

Sunfire, DonÂt take anything I say as criticism, think of it as honest firm feedback OK? Assuming you do not have a shade issue, then the problem is likely your preferred choice of fertilizer. Now here is where I will contradict myself. At my home, I use only CGM at a rate of 20 pounds per 1000/ft2. However the soil around my home is rich sandy loam that was once farm land and horse barn. My organic matter is off the charts with over a century of TLC. The point I am making is my soil has an abundance of microbes and worms to break down the CGM. The other advantage I have is I pay only $120 per ton for CGM. You can use SBM if you wish. But it may take a few seasons for your soil to build up enough microbes to break down the SBM quickly enough to satisfy Bermuda. Bermuda is a nitrogen hog. I know you want to stick with Organics, but allow me to offer this. The 39-0-0 I recommend is organic IMHO. To be more accurate it is a man made synthetic/organic compound. Basically the same stuff everyone pees many times a day. That compound is Urea, a food additive for live stock. So try this one time and see what happens. Locate a Lesco-John Deer fertilizer dealer. Purchase 1 bag of product number 000777 which is the 39-0-0 slow release urea fertilizer. If you do not have a Lesco dealer around go to a box store and look for Vigaro product that uses urea. I do not know the product number off hand, but many posters on this forum have used it and hopefully chime in on the product number. I think it is something like a 35-0-3. Look at the label and see what is in it for a nitrogen source. Should be X % fast release urea, and Y % slow release urea. Apply the product, water it in, wait a week and see what happens. I bet you will be pleasantly surprised.

It might be a challenge to find the uppermost elite bluegrass varieties in this neck of the woods, a totally different story in the USA where you can easily acquire them and can even have a blend personally selected by yourself. Maybe, things have changed now, though when I had been checking into obtaining some of those very same varieties you mention, I could not get my hands on them. So, we had carefully selected the varieties that suited our needs for a very dark green fine textured high wear tolerant lawn and also blended in a variety better suited to cope with any shady spots. We also chose varieties that require somewhat less mowing and avoided the ones with a rampant aggressive spreading rate that require one to maintain a very well tended lawn edge. We did find what was ideal for us and I'm sure your search will lead to the same.

>>Topsoil depth guesstimate is about 6" nearest foundation and drops gradually over next 10 feet-this area will be for bedding plants. Topsoil depth guesstimate for lawn starting 10' out from foundation: 4" That's extremely deep and would invalidate the Logan test. Four inches covers most of the feeder root depth for grasses. So although the tests here are good for the rest of the lawn, the top soil area is an unknown. Wait and see if it ends up that deep, it does seem like an awful lot of top soil. The results of the test: Total Exchange Capacity 8.15: Consistent with the soil test. While optimal is 10 to 15, this is not a problem in the slightest. Soil ph 7.5: It's good we recommended no lime as it would be exactly the wrong response in this soil. Your pH is already thrown somewhat high, although this is no barrier to a gorgeous lawn. But let's not throw it out of whack any further than it already is. % Organic Matter 4.13: In the Good range, but with the lower EC and high pH, I'd recommend adding OM slowly over the next few years. That will tend to raise the EC somewhat and make the pH matter less. ANIONS Sulfur: p.p.m 14: Perfect. Phosphorus lbs/acre 133: A little low. I recommended starter fertilizer below. CATIONS Calcium 2528 (desired 2216) Magnesium 242 (desired 234) Potassium 272 (desired 254) Sodium 72 (pounds per acre) >>I don't report on these directly, I use them as a basis for adjusting soils. Base Saturation % Calcium 77.55 (60 to 70%): In perfect range, although on the high side of it. Excess Ca isn't a problem. Magnesium 12.37 (10-20%): In perfect range. Potassium 4.28 (2 to 5%): In perfect range (which is rare for K). Sodium 1.91 (.5-3%): High. This, in combination with your otherwise perfect cations above, is sending the pH too high. At this time, I'm not going to change it. Let's see if it leaches out. Other Bases 3.90 (variable): Everything else. This is pretty normal. Exchangable Hydrogen 0.00 (10 to 15%)**: Zero because of your high pH. Trace Elements Boron p.p.m. 0.23: Low. Boron's critical for photosynthesis and meristem development and differentiation. Recommendations below. Iron p.p.m. 167.0: Technically OK, but this won't produce good color in the lawn. Use Milorganite as desired to raise this and raise the OM at the same time. Manganese p.p.m. 16.0 Copper p.p.m. 3.97 Zinc p.p.m. 3.4 Aluminum p.p.m 678.0 These four are fine (Al isn't used, it's actually toxic, but not available until pH drops into the low-5 range). Zn is technically out of whack when compared to the others, but I'm not inclined to fiddle with it. Recommendations: May 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. June 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. June 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team borax (use Milorganite as a carrier to even the distribution and get this tiny amount down). September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team borax.