In response to DaMonkey "what's best for the plant, not the grower" idea, I have learned that it is NOT best for all plants to require watering more than once a day. There is a level of moisture/nutrient retention that will give you optimal growth of the plant. If the mix dries out faster than that, you won't get better growth even if you water 3X a day. The gas exchange turnover is less beneficial than greater absorption of water/nutrients. To the OP, I've had a similar problem but with the gritty mix drying out far too fast for some of the plants I was trying to grow in my climate (roses, citrus, mandevilla). For these plants in MY climate, moisture retention is an advantage, not a disadvantage. I have a rose in a pot of "retentive" bagged potting mix with 30 big gorgeous blooms on it right now, while a more vigorous rose (when I bought it) in gritty mix is growing poorly and has only produced 3 or 4 blooms, when during spring flush it should be more than 30 (and was more than 30 when it came in its growers pot!). Don't hesitate to use a "retentive" mix if that's what your plants, climate, and watering habits would do best with. You might also consider setting up a drip irrigation system. I have one set up just for the pots on my relatively small deck, and I so love not having to water manually. There is good info on irrigationdirect.com on designing a system. Actually, I set mine up so I could go on vacation in hot July or August without my plants all dying (and no one, no matter how good a friend, wants to come water all those plants every day, let alone twice a day!). But I was surprised to get home from vacation and see my drip-irrigated plants doing better than when I watered them manually. I'm using RainDrip components, but my impression is that they are all pretty standard (1/2" mainline, 1/4" tubing, plugs, various style emitters, etc). I have not tried any of the fertilizer dispensers to add to the automated system. However, there are growers on gardenweb that have set up auto-fertilizer-dispenser with their drip systems, so you might want to search for info if you'd rather go that route. I plan to try Osmocote Plus (24-8-16 with complete nutrients) in conjunction with my drip system this summer, rather than manual fertigation, which is work I'd rather not do. My main problem so far is that I can't find Osmocote Plus in stores (just the regular NPK-only Osmocote).

You might know some of this already, seysonn, but the super simple approach to fertilizing would be to premix up to 1 tbsp of controlled release fertilizer (Dynamite All Purpose Select, for example) per gallon of potting mix and then to apply a soluble fertilizer (Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro, for exampe) at every watering. In general, aim to provide the soluble fertilizer at label rate weekly (so if the recommended rate is 1 tsp per gallon you'd simply divide that by the number of waterings per week). The CRF provides a steady source of nutrients throughout the growing season (which is especially valuable in prolonged wet weather when you don't need to water), and the soluble fertilizer gives you some control over growth rates. If you want to slow down vegetative growth, for example, you can reduce or withhold the soluble fertilizer (or you can alter the NPK ratio with a supplementary product like Pro-TeKt, which can accomplish the same thing). This post was edited by shazaam on Sat, Nov 9, 13 at 10:50

Your comments make me think there are specific reasons that the GC isn't coordinating this? Well, if the inexperienced GC is only giving you "loose directions", did you at least read this before you proceeded? Prior to using any slc, you really need your ducks lined up. You need all your prep work done, especially sealing any crevices that the slc could flow through. You need to contain the slc to get a level finished area. You also need to have your helpers lined up and they need to know their roles in the process. Who is mixing the next batch, who is transporting, who is placing, who is leveling, who is cleaning. The key to placing slc is to do it in one "continuous" pour, you want to be placing the second batch before the first batch is past its open time. If the floor is so out of whack that you have an excessive thickness of slc to be placed, then it can either be done in separate lifts, or you can ditch the slc and do a mud floor. From your post I don't know what the scope of the project is - are you just leveling the area under the shower base, or are you leveling the entire bathroom floor? Were this my project, and the floor was really nasty, I'd consider pulling the subfloor and leveling the floor joists (new joists sistered to the existing or tapered shims on top of the existing). Presumably it's not too bad since you're going the slc route. For slc I'd prep the existing floor. Re-nail what's there, and if needed, add another layer of ply. Then add a rim to contain the slc. Rim the drain so the slc doesn't flow down the drain hole. Seal any cracks in the underlayment/subfloor. Prime the underlayment/subfloor if required with an slc primer. If needing several batches and doing this DIY, try to have a 3-person crew. One to mix, one to transport the product from the mixer to the placer and clean the buckets after the product is placed, and a third person to place the slc. At a minimum you need two people, one to mix, another to place. You need to be a well-coordinated crew as you don't want cold joints from one batch of slc to another. As far as placing the terrazzo base, as long as the subfloor is level, the drain holes line up and the area is properly framed, it's not that difficult. Mongo

You might also consider pocket doors for the Mudroom entrance. A pair of them would echo the "paired doors" in the rest of the house and eliminate the need to accommodate any door swing. I agree with the others about considering a 36" range, I think a 48" is really too big for a kitchen this size. Is that small wall segment south of the refrigerator removable? If it is, I would remove it, move the refrigerator down to the door trim (or close to the end) on the southwest wall, and go with a larger refrigerator (or refrigerator/freezer pair), I think you will have more room overall. I would leave the DW on the right. Personally, I don't like prepping & cooking over a DW, especially if it's running or being used (loaded/unloaded/"let me just put this in/take this out"). You may not have an issue now, but when your family grows, there's a good chance things will change...including DW usage. So, plan for multiple people in the kitchen doing multiple tasks...a couple prepping, someone cooking, & someone cleaning up...all at the same time. For the sink wall, I would consider replacing the 16" cabinet with a 9" pullout and put the remaining 7" into the 22" cabinet to increase the workspace b/w the DW and sink. I would then take 3" of the 12" you saved w/the 36" range and put it into the corner cabinet. Take the other 9" and put that with the 22" + 7" to give you 22" + 7" + 9" = 38" total b/w the range and sink...a respectable prep space. Note that most likely this will be your primary Prep Zone b/c (1) it's next to a water source (important when prepping), (2) next to the range, and (3) between the range and water source. Secondary/tertiary Prep Zones will be on the counter b/w the refrigerator & range and on the island. But, since neither are next to a water source, it's very doubtful they will be your primary Prep Zone...regardless of what you "plan". (If there were a sink in the island it might become your primary Prep Zone, but I don't think it's necessary.) Island...I agree w/Palimpsest that you should increase the overhang to at least 15", preferably 18", and reduce the 21" deep cabinet to no more than 18". I would also keep the island all one level. (I can't tell for certain that it is from the layout, so I thought I'd mention it.) Window...since it's in an historic district, I'm assuming you cannot change the windows...is that correct? If not, would you consider making the window a little bit smaller to give the range hood some "breathing space" b/w it and the window? Other dimensions... It looks like the window is 78" wide and starts approx 18" from the east wall. It looks like the Mudroom doorway starts approx 48" from the north wall. The DR doorway looks like it starts approx 9" from the east wall. The larger Foyer doorway looks like it starts 6" from the south wall and is 48" wide. It then narrows down to the 37-5/8" you mention...18" from the west wall with a 15" deep wall. Are these correct? (Just a tip: When you post a layout, it's best to label all the dimensions on the layout...width of each window and doorway as well as the length of each wall segment. When there's an obstruction that cannot be moved, like the chimney and radiator, it should also be marked w/dimensions of it as well as the wall segments, etc. around it. This is explained in the "Layout Help" from the "Read Me" thread. I've linked to the entire thread, not just the "Layout Help" b/c there's so much helpful information in it.) Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!