You can certainly overseed now if you want, and the peat topdressing is a great idea. With a quarter inch of peat atop the seed you can safely drop to watering once or twice per day once your original seeding is fully sprouted. Don't count on that before Day 28. By then temperatures will be down, so will evaporation, and the water you put down won't leave as fast. Also, when sprouted it's really THIN. Like threads. It takes a while for that seedling leaf to garner enough energy to develop a good crown and start growing real leaves. I know we all look at first frost as the end of the season, but for your grass it's a signal to start moving into fall mode. You don't want frost on new seedlings, but even if the root systems haven't developed yet, they have plenty of time--until the ground freezes solid. 'Round these parts, that's January most years. December in a few. Never November. You can water at a higher rate through mid October and get away with it just fine. Yes, you'll have some losses, but you would have anyway. Second...patience. Below are my photos from day fourteen and day 35. Recap: Day 14 (two weeks!): Day 35 (FIVE weeks):

Oh that makes me feel good. I was looking at my lawn this morning and we had some rain (thank god!). I have been only keeping my lawn very damp and it actually has been dry in between waterings due to well issues. Anyways I seeded the same day as you (Labor day?). I noticed on Sunday some grass starting to germinate around the sprinkler heads where it has been a little wetter. Since then, it has started germinating more in the yard, although a lot of areas I still see nothing, which I simply am hoping is a function of *less* water and not that the seeds have died from lack of water. Hopefully. Anyways - I think I will see a lot happen in the next few days. Thankfully, this rain has given my well a chance to recuperate, provided a nice soaking for the entire lawn, and the next few days are supposed to be in the low 70's which will help keep the moisture on the lawn instead of evaporating like it did last week when it was in the low 90's. Keeping my fingers crossed!

turf toes, Well, you set the bar so dang high, that I'm just trying my best to keep up! toomuchtodo, I think that sometime photos look better that what is right in front of you. Post some pics of your renovation. boatboy24, Don't forget preemergent in the spring! Oooohhh you got that right! I will use the best stuff I can find, if it has to be synthetic so be it. If I do get any weeds next summer I will use any means necessary to get rid of them. If there are too many for the Weed Hound to handle, I will get something like Bayer weed killer that comes in a hose end spray bottle. I did not do all of this work to have a yard of weeds, that's for sure. I will be using organic ferts next year, then after the lawn gets nice and thick I will switch over to the organic pre-m also.

Hey Zhoster, based on your results I'd bet a thousand dollars the spectracide stuff you used also contains a fast acting contact herbicide. I assume the stuff works as the label claims, but here is an interesting thing: the contact herbicides are not absorbed by the roots, but rather only kill the vegetation they contact. I imagine these herbicides are mixed with glyphosate to give the appearance of fast action. The roundup people do the same thing. The thing is, glyphosate depends on having healthy plant material to let it "translocate" to the roots. So in some sense the contact herbicides inhibit the effectiveness of the glyphosate, or at least it seems to me that they would. I wouldn't worry about any of this right now. But if your quack comes back, don't give up on trying to kill it this way, just use a glyphosate product that does not contain a contact herbicide next time. Results will be much slower to see, but hopefully (if this app does not do the job) more permanent. I only mention because IIRC quack grows from rhizomes, which all have to be killed to prevent regrowth. Good luck!