Without pictures, we can only guess and my guess is the bluegrass. I say that because 20 percent is too much in a mix with tall fescue. It should be about 5 percent or this is what happens. Sorry your sod farm doesn't know that, but it isn't unusual for sod farms not to know things. No, it is not possible for the whole lawn to look that way, at least not for several years when the bluegrass takes over. For a more uniform-looking lawn, the sod farm should have mixed varieties of fescue and bluegrass that are similar in appearance. Looks like that is something else they didn't know. Tall fescue grows vertically in bunches and is a type that does not replace itself and cannot fill surrounding areas. It tillers many bunches, but they stay where they are in the ground. On the other hand, bluegrass has a complex root system that offers both vertical and horizontal growth. It spreads around the ground by its underground rhizomes to replace itself and fill in thin areas. It sounds like that's what happened with your grass. Another clue is there being so much clover, indicating the grass was not so dense or the clover would have no spots to grow into - or at least not so much of it this first year. Mixing bluegrass and fescue has always been done but is somewhat archaic in practice for your area - another tidbit the sod farm didn't know. Can you tell I like saying that? In upstate New York, it just isn't necessary when you can easily achieve a healthy and beautiful lawn of either species. Mixing them is better suited for areas of high heat, where bluegrass is less likely as sustainable as tall fescue but is still added for the filling in affect. If you want the whole lawn to look like that without the wait, you can always overseed in the fall with bluegrass. First, find out what bluegrass cultivar(s) was added to the fescue. If you had a contractor lay the sod for you, he likely will not know, but he can tell you the name of the sod farm he purchased from. Ask them. When you find out, let us know here what it was. Based on your clover estimate, I am also guessing you might benefit from a good maintenance schedule. Scroll down this thread to find the schedule outlined in red. Pay particular attention to the paragraphs on watering and mowing. Hope to hear soon on that bluegrass.

Wow! I'm glad this came back around. I think everyone has learned something since this thread was started. And now Houzz does notify you when messages you have posted on get more action. So maybe we can tune both of you up at the same time. You should not have to core aerate, ever, with very few exceptions. If you have hard soil there are chemistry reasons and biological reasons for that. The chemistry reason is most often an imbalance in the salts (magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium). Those can be addressed with a good soil test. The better lawn forums have been recommending Logan Labs in Ohio for soil testing for the past few years. Their $25 test is what you need. They will email the results to you. If you post them here morpheuspa will give you an extensive reading of the results and get you on your way toward soil perfection. The other reason the soil might be hard and clay-like is biological. There are fungi in the soil that will soften the soil for you once they have been well fed and watered. Spraying the yard with a surfactant will go a long way to allowing water to penetrate the soil and create the environment needed for healthy beneficial fungi. The surfactant can be anything but some are better than others. Ordinary shampoo is a good one. Any clear shampoo, like baby shampoo, will work. Spray the yard at a rate of 3 ounces of shampoo per 1,000 square feet and follow that up with 1/2 inch to 1 inch of water. Allow it 3 weeks to work. If you have other reasons for core aeration, please, lets discuss them. You should also not have to treat for insects unless you have found them in sufficient numbers to treat. The first clue you might have a grub problem is when you see beetles swarming your porch lights in May and June. If you see that then in July, before you see any damage, dig up a square foot of turf down to about 2 inches looking for grubs. If you see fewer than a dozen, then you don't have a grub problem. If you see an uncountable mass of them, then spray. Chinch bugs are more of a southern problem because they like hot soil, but it is possible to see them elsewhere. Spraying insecticide as a preventive measure is not good for the soil biology. Insects are an integral element of healthy soil. Spraying insecticide kills off the bad bugs, but if you don't have bad bugs, then it just kills the beneficial insects. I suspect both of you have watering and mowing height issues. Here's something I wrote a while ago that summarizes what I've learned over the past decade or so. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

If I was lucky enough to have Morels in my backyard, I would just harvest them with a smile on my face and leave the landscaping alone. IMHO I would forget about pavers or anything else that could hinder or damage the mycillium growing under the ground. I would throw some grass seed down, maybe some woodland wildflower seeds and nothing else. Personally I wouldn't even mow the area until after the harvest was complete.

then yesterday at 11 days i took a few after pictures ,the seed actually came in in 5 days surprisingly that was fast usually fescue does not come in into like 14 days but im sure it will take a bit longer for the kbg to come in and fill in the other areas again these pictures i took yesterday https://www.houzz.com/photos/teknooldskools-ideas-phvw-vp~65511489 https://www.houzz.com/photos/teknooldskools-ideas-phvw-vp~65511494 i bought the seed from seedland.com just do a google search for Tall - Defiance XRE BLUE and it will come up first in google.