Posted by ga_red_clay (My Page) on Mon, Apr 28, 08 at 18:15 Can any one give me a step by step plan. I cant figure out what to do with this "Patchmaster" junk that I put down. Should I round up and plant seed? Sprigs? Sod? What should I do next month in May? I dont want to pull the neighborhood down by having a crap lawn. Here's a step-by-step plan: 1) Water deeply & infrequently. Deeply means at least in inch of irrigation, the goal being to get moisture down 8" to 10" deep in the soil. Infrequently means no more often than once a week in the heat of summer & about once a month in the cooler months. You want the top of the soil to completely dry out between waterings helping to kill off shallow rooted weeds. 2) Mow frequently at the lowest setting on your mower. If your mower will mow the grass down to 1 inch, then mow when the grass gets up to 1-1/2" (no higher than that.) Mowing this frequently will encourage bermuda's horizontal growth & thickening, while discouraging many weeds as well as help to avoid scalp/swirl marks in your lawn. 3) Fertilize every 30 to 45 days throughout the growing season (from now til fall) with a fertilizer only product (avoid weed-n-feed products.) What fertilizer you use is less inportant than steps 1 & 2 above, but I personally prefer organic & use feed grains, specifically soybean meal once a month during the growing season & a single app of alfalfa pellets once each spring & fall. If you don't want to use feed grains, then the next best thing would be to use some 34-0-0 urea slow release fertilizer. 4) Buy a Weed Hound to remove the few weeds you have there. You shouldn't need any round up to remove that other grass you planted, the heat of summer coupled with the cultural practices I outlined here will have that bermuda crowding it out in no time. 5) Mulch under your trees out to the dripline of the trees & install some sort of edge border also if you'd like. You could perhaps find some flowers or groundcover that suits your taste that enjoy the shade your trees provide. (You already know the bermuda doesn't do well under there.) Follow these steps & let us know how it looks at the end of summer, I think you'll like the results. Good day, Dan

Received my soil labs from Logan Labs today. Any help with remediation's would be appreciated. Thank you all!

Not mowing at day 50 with Kentucky bluegrass is not abnormal. The stuff goes into Sprout and Pout after it sprouts up and works on its root mass. I wasn't mowing all that much by the end of the first season myself, and I planted early. If you haven't fed since sprout (or not at all), a half-rate feeding wouldn't be a bad idea. Then feed at full rate when the growth on surrounding lawns stop, but yours is still green (a normal winterization, in other words, just timed on other people's lawns).

For some reason this year old comment thread popped back up on my feed. How did your sidewalk/steps project turn out? After pics? Did you clad your front porch post to make it larger (and sturdier looking)? It occurs to me that if you're working on enhancing curb appeal, you might consider creating a distinct property boundary -- left and right side of the house -- and adding a trash can corral against whatever fence you are able to create (building codes permitting, of course). https://www.pinterest.com/pin/3799980914189117/ Your front yard has great potential to be an attractive private front yard patio. You might consider cutting anything draping down over the concrete block wall that is parallel to the front sidewalk and, after scrubbing/bleaching away any sign plants were trying to take root in the wall, then keeping that trimmed. If the kinds of plants hanging down appeal to you, consider planting them only in the planter parallel to your sidewalk or another planter for less of an unkempt appearance. How does your front yard drain rainwater ... via a path beside your house or do you need to create a drainage path beside your house to make your front yard more usable?