I don't understand what you're concerned about. You say "Cucumbers have whatever this is,the worst, then the squash, the watermelons and the pumpkins." but you don't tell us what "this" looks like. Please describe or post images. You also wrote "The leaves are being shredded." You show us only one leaf -- how many leaves are affected? If only one or several, it's not important. Could have been a one time thing. Could even be a mechanical tear. I suggest you not spray until you find some critter for us to ID. Even then, it's likely you won't need to spray. Please give us more info and more images. Thanks.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/gal062153163329.html?1 I am really sorry about the vagueness of where the other post is. I just assumed it would be understood it was in this forum's gallery section, but it is easy to know that if you already know that. :-) I posted a small clickable thumbnail when I read it is best to load small pics as they are easier to load, and then can be clicked on to be seen bigger. I thought the big ones were much nicer too, and maybe not everyone can click it and make it bigger. Sorry again. I am puzzled also by the shredding of the leaves after the white/silvery stuff appears, but in looking up possible causes which I have been doing every night, I found that angular water spot will shred the leaves just like it is an isect eating it. I don't think it looks exactly like it, but it is the closest thing I have found yet. I just went out to the garden in hopes of some pics this morning but I knew the dew would probably be too heavy and it was. it really washes out the white color making it hard to see. I have an appt before lunch, but will be getting pics the first minute I can when I get back. Thanks so much for taking the time to try to help me figure this out. If the cucs are lost, at least if I identify it soon, I can do prevention on the other vines before they get too bad to save. Julie

Marknmt, As one whose sprayed quite a bit of picloram (Tordon) I agree it is quite powerful. I've sprayed it on the bark of thorny locust and killed whole trees. I know its been in the press in America and the UK lately, but in spite of all the press, I think the risks of picloram tainted manure are a bit trumped up. I've been in agriculture all my life in one way or another. For a few years I owned a hay crew (square bales). In this area, people rarely apply fertilizer to hay ground, even less, pesticides. There simply isn't enough margin in hay ground to justify the expense. Even if they did apply a carry over product like picloram (and around here it would be very rare) the carry over and diluted effect probably wouldn't harm the trees. In spite of what the literature says, it only lasts a year (I've seen broad leaf crops germinate a year after it was applied). The same applies to tainted grass clippings. I've heard people warn against chemically laced clippings. However, I have a sign in front of my house requesting clippings, leaves, and chipped wood. For years I've put grass clippings around my garden crops, including tomatoes. I've never noticed anything but excessive vigor from this type of mulch. I'm confident these clippings are from lawns loaded with herbicide residues because so many lawns around here picture perfect. I think the reason they are innocuous to my tomatoes is that most of these herbicides bind to the soil and are rendered ineffective by the time they reach the roots. Mark, I hope I haven't come on too strong here, but my experience simply doesn't mesh with the admonitions. I understand others may have different experiences. Ryan, You bring up some good points. I've also read not to fertilize newly planted trees. However, nurseries and commercial orchards frequently fertigate (even the first year) to get a jump on growth. I think this could be especially relevant to your situation where the soil seems to be poor. In terms of specific Miracle Grow recommendations, I can't give you any. Only that your soil seems to be lacking something, so as an immediate measure, I would add a complete fertilizer (NPK plus trace minerals). Admittedly this is a shotgun approach, but without a soil test, I know of no other way. There is a lady from TN on the Nafex fruit group who complains about how poor her soil is. Maybe her experience has unjustifiably biased me, but I can't help thinking of her experience when I see your pics. But in all candidness, I'm only throwing educated guesses at your problem, as anyone on this list can do. It's a bit early for any serious pest control. Your extension is doing you a disservice to recommend Malathion for any serious pest control. You'll find some university extensions are well tuned to the needs of fruit trees. Others are merely a chapter ahead of you in the most basic cultural fruit practices. It's possible your peach tree could fruit next year. In that case, I would post more specific pest control questions this fall, or winter. Regarding the manure. I would just call around to local stables. There is one about 2 miles from me. They have more manure than they can get rid of and stack it in piles. Although I've not used their manure (because my mulch sign works so well for me) I have used other stable manure. I've also used loads of composted dead pigs. The only problem I've observed is that if the stable waste is extremely hot, it produces a lot of vegetative growth at the expense of fruit.

IMHO .. those are overly mature... improperly maintained conifers... that should go ... there are things to RENOVATE... and there are things to give up on ... most conifers are full sun plants... those were in full sun 20 years ago ... but now that the other trees have grown.. they are shaded .... the tan is branches are probably some winter damage .... you have so many other things to take care of.. these might be a project better left for the chainsaw ... and then replaced with something more appropriate to the site ... it might not have to be done immediately ... but i doubt they will renovate into something 'nice' ... so, to answer your question .... its not disease nor insect.. unless you consider old age a disease ken