apple vs cedar tree...any hope?
thecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years ago
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RobThomas
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Immunnox & Cedar Apple Rust This Year I want to do it Right
Comments (10)Hi valsound- I'm glad you've found those old postings useful! Keep in mind, that I've only been doing this for a few years, so you might be better to listen to Harvestman & Michael357 who have more experience in this area. Nope, the "lawn disease preventer" is not what you want. You'll find that people here are usually quite strict when it comes to obeying the label. You'll almost never find someone recommending against it. It's really important to obey it for a lot of reasons. I was never able to find Immunox locally and had go online. I just did a Google Product search of "Immunox 61000" and found it. The original online location that I found mine doesn't seem to have it anymore, but there are still plenty of places that carry it. There's also a Spectricide Immunox 61000 which seems to be marketed for roses. I stayed away from that stuff because I wasn't positive that it was the same. http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6736565 http://www.supremehardware.com/servlet/the-41652/Spectracide-Immunox-dsh-Multi-Purpose-Fungicide/Detail http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=5&m=g1&itemNumber=7062417 As to when to spray, it sounds like you're trying to be very precise on when to spray. I have to laugh because I do the same thing... keeping a table record of which trees go through which stage on which date, so I can average it all together and find the exact right time. But, I don't think it's necessary to be that precise. In fact, there will often be weather conditions which prevent you from spraying at the exact right time. Anyway, I would just wait until, on average, most of your pedals are coming off. Yes, there will be a tree where it won't happen for another 2 days, and yes, there will be another tree where it happened two days ago... but, IMHO, that will still be OK. Keep in mind that Immunox, unlike many fungicides, has "kickback" which means that it will handle an infection that started a couple days prior. Get ready to kick some CAR butt this year! Hope this helps, -Glenn...See MoreApple Tree Recommendations for South Lake Tahoe Zone 6b
Comments (16)William's Pride is pretty good for its season- here it starts in the 2nd week of August and finishes by the end of the month. The first are a bit tart (probably border-line ripe) and by the end they get sweeter, sometimes with a bit of watercore. I like those late apples, but by then I'm getting better apples from Priscilla, with Sweet Sixteen (one notch down on leaf health, but note bad) around the corner. WP's flavor is a bit like Liberty, except much earlier. Liberty does build up higher brix levels (~16-17 vs 12-14 off the top of my head- I can look at my notes later). Priscilla is an interesting option for late Aug and early September. This is the 3rd bearing year for me. The first crop (on a 2nd year tree) was a small crop of tasty apples. Then last year, I had some more tasty ones, while other fell off early and were mushy. This year, they were uniformly good, with an interesting (a hint of anise?) sweet flavor and good crunch. Most were in the 14-16 brix range. While that is lower than Liberty, they have less acid and seem sweeter. The one thing which makes me a bit hesitant to recommend it to you is that I'm not sure if it was our cooler summer this year that kept them from falling off early- I'm guessing that your area may consistently have hotter summers....See MoreCrimson Topaz apple
Comments (14)Harvestman can you provide any evidence to support your theory that reds are less susceptible to CAR? I've never heard or read anything like that before. It's not that I don't believe you, because it seems to me reds might be also be a bit less susceptible to SB, but I'm basing that on some very thin anecdotal evidence and nothing more. I'm also a bit skeptical about the ease of controlling CAR as you mention, but I'll yield to your experience. I hope your right and I'll know for certain early this coming summer. I got the myclo ready...lots of it. I do know it cannot be easily controlled once manifested. Myclo doesn't seem to have the ability to rid a plant of CAR and if anything does, it could only be a more pricey sterol inhibitor. Myclo does seem to keep it in check though. I never had the slightest bit of fruit damage but I like my trees to be attractive lawn specimens too though and CAR looks awful. For me Goldrush really shines in keeping qualities (the main reason I chose it) and it seems (basing this on one and only one small crop) that it has inherent insect resistance to boot. I got my little bounty in the (now cold) basement like you recommended...I'm hoping they sweeten a bit and I think they will. They may already have...haven't tried them yet. I'd like to try CT and I probably will at some point, but if it was any serious contender to Goldrush I think I'd have heard (read) more about it. H'man...have you tried storing any to get an idea of it's storability? H'man...I want to talk with you more on a different variety tomorrow that you will probably laugh at me for even bringing up...but I'm gonna do it anyway. You probably have it growing as it's apparently a popular NY commercial apple. Bought some from NY last week that was some of the best apples I've ever eaten...including my own Honeycrisp. You won't believe me....See MoreWill cedar apple rust ruin my newly planted crabapple trees?
Comments (9)I am going to assume you didn't know about Cedar Apple Rust before you planted the trees, but just for the benefit of others who might be wanting to plant apples or crabapples, the best advice is to think long and hard before you do it. Because cedar trees are widespread in our state and very invasive, it is very hard, if not almost impossible, to grow healthy apples and crabapples here. I love apples, but have lived here for 10 years and never planted one because I don't want to deal with cedar apple rust. Since you've already planted the trees, though, you have to deal with it. So, in answer to your questions: I don't think it is possible to control it on the cedars themselves. What you can do is remove the cedar apples (the fungal growths, also known as galls) before they form horns. If they have already formed horns it is too late. And, if there are cedar trees within about 2 miles of you, the disease can be carried through the air, so removing the cedar apples from the infected cedar trees near you may help a little, but it won't prevent airborne cedar apple disease spores from infecting your plants. You can spray your crabapples with a fungicide that is labeled for use on crabapples for the prevention/control of cedar apple rust, but the spraying has to be done at very specific temperatures and at very precise times. I believe the spores transfer most readily when temperatures are in the 60s. The fungicide most readily available to homeowners for Cedar Apple Rust on crabapples is cholorothalonil, most often sold as Daconil, and often used by vegetable gardeners, for example, to prevent Early Blight on tomatoes. I think you also can use a different fungicide called Bayleton. Just read and follow the label directions IF it is not too late, weatherwise and temperaturewise, in your area. Even though your crabapple trees are new to you, they actually are several years old by the time you buy them, so the application of a fungicide following label directions should not harm them at all. Just be sure you dilute the fungicide and apply it as directed. The entire life cycle of cedar apple rust from cedar tree to its transferrence to apple trees takes almost 2 years. It is an ever-present threat. It is the reason you don't see vast orchards of apples in Oklahoma. Of the two crabapples you plante, I think Prairiefire is considered highly disease-resistant and Profusion less so. However, disease-resistant only means the tree has some resistance, not immunity, and even disease-resistant trees can and do get diseases. Cedar Apple Rust is the main cause of rust on apple trees, but you also have to watch out for the closely related Cedar-Quince Rust and Cedar-Hawthorne Rust. They are controlled/prevented by the same fungicides. Please understand though that even the regular application of fungicide is no guarantee the trees won't become infected. Understand also that cedar apple rust is not something that will be a problem only once. If is an issue for your trees one year, it probably will be an issue for them every year when the temperatures are in the precise range that allows the spores to transfer and infect apple trees. Only you can decide if you want to deal with the cedar-apple rust disease every year, or if you'd rather cut your losses and replace your crabapple trees with some other kind of tree that is more disease-resistant. Good luck, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Cedar Apple Rust...See Moreltilton
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agomes111
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agomamuang_gw
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agojean001a
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agowindfall_rob
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agomamuang_gw
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoolpea
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agomamuang_gw
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agojean001a
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoAmericanchestnut
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRobThomas
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agothecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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