Hi valsound-
I'm glad you've found those old postings useful! Keep in mind, that I've only been doing this for a few years, so you might be better to listen to Harvestman & Michael357 who have more experience in this area.

Nope, the "lawn disease preventer" is not what you want. You'll find that people here are usually quite strict when it comes to obeying the label. You'll almost never find someone recommending against it. It's really important to obey it for a lot of reasons.

I was never able to find Immunox locally and had go online. I just did a Google Product search of "Immunox 61000" and found it. The original online location that I found mine doesn't seem to have it anymore, but there are still plenty of places that carry it. There's also a Spectricide Immunox 61000 which seems to be marketed for roses. I stayed away from that stuff because I wasn't positive that it was the same.

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6736565

http://www.supremehardware.com/servlet/the-41652/Spectracide-Immunox-dsh-Multi-Purpose-Fungicide/Detail

http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=5&m=g1&itemNumber=7062417

As to when to spray, it sounds like you're trying to be very precise on when to spray. I have to laugh because I do the same thing... keeping a table record of which trees go through which stage on which date, so I can average it all together and find the exact right time. But, I don't think it's necessary to be that precise. In fact, there will often be weather conditions which prevent you from spraying at the exact right time. Anyway, I would just wait until, on average, most of your pedals are coming off. Yes, there will be a tree where it won't happen for another 2 days, and yes, there will be another tree where it happened two days ago... but, IMHO, that will still be OK. Keep in mind that Immunox, unlike many fungicides, has "kickback" which means that it will handle an infection that started a couple days prior.

Get ready to kick some CAR butt this year!

Hope this helps,
-Glenn

I think you will be okay as long as you modify the dilution to match that of the Multi-purpose concentrate. My Lowes carries both the "Multi-Purpose fungicide" in 16oz as a 1.55% Myclobutanil and the "Lawn Disease Control" in 32oz as 2.0% Myclobutanil. That is the only active ingredient, the other ingredients make up the remainder. What you will have to do is add more water to your dilution. For example the Multi-purpose on Apple for Powdery mildew, Rusts and Scab control): States "Mix ²/³ fl oz of this product with 1 gallon of water and uniformly apply to all parts of the tree to point of runoff. " That is with the 1.55% concentrate, so for the 2% concentrate which is roughly 33% stronger so you would use about ½ fl oz of the 2.0% with 1 gal water for the same result. Please check the math (Not My strong point) and be sure and read the actual application details from the labels. I used the Apple as an example. Most people I would think better off just using the Multi-purpose to keep things simple. If you are cheap like me I purchased the 2% solution as it was priced 32 fl oz for $15 as opposed to $12 for 16 fl oz of the 1.55% mix. So that results in roughly half the cost.

".....You'll find that people here are usually quite strict when it comes to obeying the label. You'll almost never find someone recommending against it. It's really important to obey it for a lot of reasons."

glen I think you spoke to soon. lol!!!

I buy Immunox at Home Depot for $13 a pint.

Be careful there is a Immunox Plus that looks identical. The I.P. has a systemic pesticide you don't want to have that in your system.

More on CAR treatment with Immunox.

I was reading someone's posted online "Home orchard disease & insect spray guide"

They recommended Immunox throughout the season beginning at Prepink & every 14 days. They did not say to stop immunox during Bloom. So their position is that it is not harmful to pollinators?

Hi Valsound-
I'm not sure I've ever read that particular page, but my question is... why are they spraying so much? My Immunox spraying schedule is derived from Harvestman and Michael357. Harvestman usually recommends 2 sprays (at the timing I mentioned) for people who want to minimize the spraying. Otherwise he recommended 3 and I believe that's what Michael357 did last year. I remember Harvestman saying something to the effect of he didn't believe that one would ever need more than 3 sprays of it. I've gotten CAR really bad in the past, but 2 simple sprays was all I needed to get complete control last year. It really is that easy. I'm not sure about it's toxicity to bees. Perhaps someone else will know. Hope this helps. -Glenn

Bees use pollen and nectar for food. Tests show orchard chemicals in Honey are leading to stress. Total Bee hive losses are 30% every year from introduced Varroa mites, tracheal mites and other weird intestinal fungi. Bee keepers then apply more chemicals to treat sick bees. Bees pollinate many crops give them a break you don't have to spray during bloom.

Agree with Ace there's no need to add chemical load to bees unnecessarily. You might try Hman/Glenn's program of a petal fall and cover spray of Immunox. Since you yankees are all in the same general area, it'll probably work for you.

As to the issue of fungicides harmful to pollinators. Don't confuse fungicides with insecticides. Insecticides are specifically engineered to kill insects. That's why one has to be careful to minimize collateral damage to pollinators/beneficials when using them. Most insecticides have something on the label about - toxic to bees, etc. I've never seen a fungicide with that warning. Several fungicides recommend spraying at bloom to prevent fungi damage to blooms. Most fungicides do carry the warning - toxic to fish. But fish die at the drop of a hat. Even something as innocuous as shaving cream will kill em'.

Hi Val: finally checking in. I'd guess you'd be best off to go with harvestman's suggestions as he is very familiar with CAR control and he is in a climate far nearer to yours than mine. That said, in my drier climate, I've gone to monitoring the CAR galls and waiting for them to begin sporulation and then beginning to spray within 2 days. The reason for this is that the apple trees here can develop beyond petal fall before the galls sporulate in a dry spring. I figure, why spray for CAR if the spores aren't out yet. Last year was a little maddening, we had a typical start to spring with some very light rains which made some of the galls sporulate and then no more rain for weeks. Then, when the CAR sprays should have been over we had more rain that caused the remaining galls to sporulate causing me to spray again.

My guess is, in areas in the east, the rains come heavy and often enough to get all the galls to do their thing in a very short time and that that time corresponds roughly with the 1/4" green to second cover spray period for apples. The weather isn't so cut and dry here every spring.

Being one who enjoys the biology, I highly recommend scouting for galls now if you don't already know what they look like and later when the temps warm up a bit more and the rain begins. Then go out and watch the telial horns do their thing. It is pretty impressive to see a gall in full bloom. If you want I can dig up a photo and post it or somewhere in this forum you can possibly find where I posted some pics last year.

Oh BTW, the Immunox works very well. The active ingredient in Immunox is Myclobutanil, read up on it via web searches as there are proper and improper ways to use it and more than one opinion on the matter.

Happy hunting,

Michael

re:" You'll find that people here are usually quite strict when it comes to obeying the label. You'll almost never find someone recommending against it."

This is because it is illegal to use a pesticide not in accordance with the label. Most of the discussion on the site about using this or that "because it's the same ingredient"
are advocating breaking the law.

Just thought this should be clear :-)