When should I expect the peek performance of my grass to be?

11 years ago

I have Bermuda grass that was laid August 2011. I was told not to do anything until it start to come in this spring.

This Spring I have fertilized regularly, preemergent, etc. I have watered regularly, mow it twice a week.

I do have some spots in the front and back that look like dollar spot. I have put a fungus killer on the yard (fertilome Fstop). It has been over 10 days and nothing has really changed. Any other suggestions for this?

My main question though is, should I just be trying to get through this year with new grass and expect better next year or should it be at a peek now? I feel like I do all the right upkeepings but it doesn't look how I want it, yet.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (16)

nearandwest
11 years ago
Immunox has given good results for controlling Dollar Spot. It can be found at the big box stores. Bermudagrass is at its peak from around July 4th until around Labor Day.
dchall_san_antonio
11 years ago
Generally nearandwest's answer is correct. It depends on where you live. This year it probably should have peaked in June. If it got really stinkin hot, then it might have declined to dormancy about now.

Where do you live?
Is there any shade on the grass from trees, buildings, or fences?
How often do you water and for how long?
How high/low do you mow?
What fertilizer are you using and how often?
Related Discussions
Reel mower performance expectations
Q
Comments (27)
I have both a Brill and a Scotts classic, and they both have their own advantages and disadvantages. For sure, I wouldn't use them on a big lawn (my house sits on slightly less than 1/4 acre). For the purposes of comparison, here's a rundown if anyone is interested in either mower. AFAIK, the sunlawn is similar to the Brill Maneuverability: The brill is much lighter than the scotts, and the rollers on the Brill make turning around obstacles much easier than the Scotts with the wheels. However, the Scotts is a bit easier to stay in a straight track because of this. Also, I find the Scotts better for hills, because the Brill is so light, the cut is compromised especially when going uphill or cutting sideways along a hill (where the wheels are slightly "lifted" up due to the light weight and slow the blade down). Advantage: for flat lawns with many obstacles, the Brill. For hilly lawns with no/few obstacles, the Scotts. The Blades: A lot of hype is touted with the contact free blade system of the Brill (and Sunlawn) over the scissor contact type blades of the Scotts (and many other traditional reel mowers). Yes, the Brill is much easier to push around when "not cutting grass", but when you are actually mowing, the difference is very little in the force required (and I'd attribute the difference to the narrower cutting width of the Brill). I also find I need to adjust the Brill once or twice a season for optimum performance (not the 4 years or whatever they claim) though it is very easy to do. There is also a good reason the Brill only has a maximum cutting height of 1.8": the cut quality suffers at its highest setting (in unevenness), but cuts awesome at the lower settings. I guess the blade needs to dig in lower where the leaf blade is stiffer and doesn't cut as well when the grass is longer and "floppier" You also need to maintain a decent speed when cutting with the Brill to get the best cut. The scissor blades of the Scotts are much less dependent on height and mowing speed than the Brill in getting a good cut. I'm not sure about sharpening interval, as I have only had the scotts a few months, but it is still cutting great. So, in my opinion, the contact free blade system might have an advantage in sharpening interval (with easy adjustments now and then), I prefer the cut of the Scotts overall, unless you are cutting short (under 1 1/2 in), where the Brill is probably equal. The dreaded wheel lines of the Scotts: Yes, you notice the lines, but they are less pronounced the shorter the cut, and depending on the grass type (I hardly notice them on my front lawn which is KBG, whereas it is more noticeable in the back with the KBG, fescue and rye mixture even at the same cutting height) The Brill with it's rollers has a much less noticeable track, and in fact due to it's slightly less quality cut (compared to scissor blades), looks more "natural", or like the lawn hasn't been cut recently (but nice and even, not that the lawn hasn't been cut!) So, I think neither is better than the other, it depends on your conditions. For a lawn with few obstacles and turns, but has hills, I'd recommend the Scotts even though it is heavier. For flat lawns with a lot of obstacles and curves and only minor grades, "and" you always cut shorter than 1.8", the Brill would be good. I'm glad I have both, as my lawn is in between the conditions that would prefer one or the other (some hills out back, flat in front, some obstacles and curves). If I only could have one, I would pick the Scotts mainly due to the higher cutting setting available. I will be pulling out my Brill when it gets cooler and am cutting shorter. As for my lawn, I get many good complements from the neighbors, who all use power rotary mowers, and some who even have sprinkler systems ( I use oscillating sprinklers when needed, and fertilize organically 90% of the time)
...See More
new grass--what should I expect by now?
Q
Comments (6)
newly, nothing you can do about the weed killer component at this point. There's a difference between "winterizer" and "winter guard" as you've discovered. Keep the lawn moist as with the cool temps we've had, KBG is going to try your patience so try and get all the germination you can get. The rain my have washed away some of the 2,4D but it's hard to say how much of the germination will be inhibited. Once we get the first really hard frost, give your entire lawn a feeding of 10-10-10. The roots will take up the Phosphorus and in spring you'll have a healthy lawn ready for action. You can get a soil test in the spring to nail down your lime requirements but I'll bet $$$$$$$$$$$$$ that it's low. Gary, you live in CHI town. I live in New England, not far from the OP. We get substantial annual rainfall and have acidic soil. Generalities are a downfall of this site. My advice is spot on so I'll respectfully disagree with you. The OP's descriptions are a sure sign of low pH with no time to be waiting two+ weeks for soil test results. Once you look at a lot of grass and compare it to soil results you learn.... You can have all the iron in the world in your soil and a low pH will stop the plant (grass) from using it. In New England if you get your pH right, you can almost ignore all the other soil parameters outright. The one exception is current production packaging with "phos-free" means we are actually at risk of having low P levels to the unknowing. See previously mentioned annual rainfall to understand why we get so much leaching.....
...See More
Quad DE - Expected performance
Q
Comments (5)
By screwing up the install do you mean the builder is not familiar with the filter???? Keep in mind, most pools still look like that at night with any type of filter. But lets assume you have an issue. I'm guessing they installed it as a cartridge filter and in turn pumped DE into the insides of the cartridges. When that happens, you will rarely get all of it out of the cartridge pleats after correcting it. If that was the case, I'd ask for a new set of cartridges. You can also add a product to the water called SEA KLEAR PRS which will in two stages which will filter that water down to 1/2 micron. It's awesome and great for turning water into glass at night. At a few months, you're beyond any plaster dust issues so the issues is most likely DE.
...See More
Peek at my blueprint and help me plan my dream kitchen (remodel)
Q
Comments (4)
Houseful-thanks for all the detailed pictures! So cool how you have transformed that space! This house is in Arcadia, we are currently in the East Valley. So...one thing we are playing with is the idea of keeping the original flooring. That requires moving as few walls as possible to keep repairs/replacements to a minimum. So that is informing the following ideas: I am currently toying with the idea of having a doorway from the library to the kitchen that lines up with the doorway to the dining room. With both the kitchen/library and kitchen/dining walls being half walls opened up above the lower cabs, if that makes sense. So I could see out the dining room windows at a sink and the library window at a cooktop possibly. Lining up the doorways would direct traffic through the kitchen but maybe that would be okay since my work area would be all on one side of the doorways? If we did this you would be able to see the backyard from the library and view out the front from the dining room... Rosie-the garden room was not built according to the plans and is just a room with a huge skylight...I was thinking of keeping it, but with half walls so when you enter the house you can see through it to the back windows...I was thinking of making it a small play room with a couch under the skylight. (Skylight is quite long and narrow along the wall opposite the door). A friend of mine has a reading couch under a skylight and it is magical to stretch out and read there during rainstorms... I like the idea of the kitchen in the middle, I think...Now, it is desirable to do less for the flooring reason, but I want to think big and I would love ideas that grab space from anywhere, really. We are mere days into months of planning so my initial thoughts may change dramatically. I would love to tear out as little as possible but I am open to considering it nonetheless!
...See More
nearandwest
11 years ago
Actually dchall, you are correct. I should probably amend my response, as the time frame of "July 4th to Labor Day" is too broad. It does depend on where you live, and I believe bamamatt lives in Alabama. So I would say that July is the peak performance time for him. The days start getting shorter in August. I've always believed that bermuda is just getting going good in June, and it hits its stride in July.
texas_weed
11 years ago
Bermudagrass is at its peak from around July 4th until around Labor Day.

Nah that is too broad of a statement. True for some areas, but not nationally.

The key to Bermuda grass performance is night time temps and the root zone temperature. When night time lows are consistently above 65 degrees is when Bermuda is in top shape. That means the top surface root zone is staying at 70 or higher.

Dollar Spot is usually associated with damp conditions and cool night when Bermuda growth slows down. Best treatment for Dollar Spot is good warm weather and fertilizer so the Bermuda outgrows the problem. Otherwise you need a fungicide to deal with cool nights and high moisture levels.
nearandwest
11 years ago
"Nah that is too broad of a statement. True for some areas, but not nationally."

The OP lives in Alabama. However, it would make some difference whether he lives in the northern, central, or southern part of the state. I would still say that the month of July is the "peak" performance time for his region. Yeah, that 60 day window was a bit too broad.

"The key to Bermuda grass performance is night time temps and the root zone temperature."

There are a number of key criteria which determine bermudagrass performance. The two you listed certainly are, as well as day length. As the days get shorter, bermudagrass growth and development begins to slow down. And now is the time of year when bermudagrass starts to store carbohydrates in preparation for its winter dormancy period. That is why, here in the southeast, we start thinking about raising our height of cut at this time of year to help that process along.

In my neck of the woods, Dollar Spot is usually seen anywhere from late Winter to late Spring, and that is when we will usually see those damp, cool conditions to which you referred. I usually make it disappear quickly with a fungicide application and sprayable nitrogen.
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
Ok, to answer some questions...

Where do you live?
Central Alabama (Birmingham area)

Is there any shade on the grass from trees, buildings, or fences?
Some shade from a fence. Backyard only.
Morning shade on front lawn. Until about 9am.
How often do you water and for how long?
Once a week. 1 inch. Sometimes twice a week during a hot times with no rain. 1 inch to a inch and a half then.

How high/low do you mow?
Try to mow just around 1 inch. However, due to problems with my reel mower I have raised it just a little bit.

What fertilizer are you using and how often?
Fertilome fertilizer monthly. One month is a crabgrass preventer, next month fertilizer.

I appreciate all the replies and I did not make myself real clear in my intial post. My main question is, should I just being trying to survive this year with my grass (laid down last August) and expect better next year or if I am doing every thing is this is as good as it gets?

I am not too concerned about the time period of the year it will do the best but more of will my bermuda grass do better after this year and it has had time to go through and entire season?

Thanks for all the replies!!!!
nearandwest
11 years ago
BamaMatt:

I'm ok with the watering schedule, but I would like to learn more about the fertilizer and crabgrass preventer materials you are using. What exactly is the name and numbers on the bags of materials you are using? It appears that Fertilome has several products for lawn care. Which ones are you using?

I will also be interested to continue in the other topic thread related to your washboarding as to whether lifting up on the handle has any positive effect on reducing the washboarding.

And to answer your question, your bermuda should look like a grass carpet right now. Can you post any pictures here?
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
Here are the fertilizers I am using:

Lawn Food Plus Iron 24-0-4
put first weekend of April, June and August

next is crabgrass preventer plus lawn food 20-0-3
Put down first weekend of May and July

A local nursery has me on this program (however, it is no different than any other customer with bermuda).

I just went out and mower again. Still have issues with the washboarding. I paid close attention to the mowers handle and that is not the problem. You have to push way down on it to lift it at all. I made sure I was slightly elevated with it the entire time. Here are some photos I took. Let me know if you can't view them.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo4.jpg?t=1344635447
This is the backyard. The spots at the bottom are dog pee spots I have filled in with sand (just figured out recently what was causing the spots. Yard has been mowed.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo16.jpg?t=1344635440
Another backyard. I have mowed vertically to the reel mower.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo15.jpg?t=1344635444
Another, mowed to the reel mower.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo32.jpg?t=1344635443
Front yard. Mowed

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo23.jpg?t=1344635444
Another front yard. Mowed.

I am posting this so I don't lose it but I am going to go take more pictures of the washboarding. I realize you cannot see it in these pictures.
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
Here are more. Just so you know, in the backyard I cut the grass vertically and then horizontally to see if that would help any. In the front I went diagonal then horizontal.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo41.jpg?t=1344636408
backyard, viewing with my horizontal cut.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo33.jpg?t=1344636408
same place, just different angle.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo24.jpg?t=1344636404
view from horizontal cut (this was the 2nd passover)

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo17.jpg?t=1344636401
backyard, veritcal cut. The first pass through.

I really appreciate you taking the time to help with me with this. It is about to make me pull my hair out. I have decided next April/May I am going to level my yard like it showed in the other thread.

If this helps, here is my reel mower.

http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/american/index.htm

I do have the bag attachment. I don't like trash on the lawn.

Just to say again, I have the mower about 3 months. I have had this problem for about a month and a half now mowing 2 times a week.
texas_weed
11 years ago
OK I looked at the pictures and I do not see anything wrong. If you are talking about wave pattern of a reel mower it is caused the number of reels, cutting height, and speed of the reels and pace of walk.
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
Texas-weed, here is the pic from the original post about this.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q607/BamaMatt42/photo31.jpg?t=1344032322

Look at the photo. This is an example of what I have all over the front and back yard. It is hard to see from the pics in the camera.

You can look from one angle and not be able see much but walk to the other end of the yard and it looks like someone drug something across the yard to make the grass stand up higher.
texas_weed
11 years ago
That is your reel mower problem not the grass. Is your reel mower a push type?
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
Yes, it is a push type. Is is an American Reel Mower with 7 blades.

Here is a link....

Here is a link that might be useful: American Reel Mower
nearandwest
11 years ago
BamaMatt:

One of the ways that golf course mechanics can tell if their reel mowers are cutting properly is by checking to see if the reel will cut newspaper across the length of the reel. If a reel will cut newspaper, it will cut grass.

It may very well be that your American reel mower is just not stout enough to properly mow through some of the thick bermudagrass. If this is the case, would you consider getting a gas-powered reel mower like rager_w showed you in the other thread? Or I guess you could always use a rotary mower, but it will not provide the 1" height of cut with a nice finished look you get with a powered reel mower.
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
nearandwest, I have done the paper trick several times. It cuts paper just fine.

Take a look at this link I posted on another forum. They gave some answers as well basically just saying, it's the mower and nothing you can do....

Here is a link that might be useful: Reel Mower problem
BamaMatt
Original Author
11 years ago
nearandwest, I have done the paper trick several times. It cuts paper just fine.

Take a look at this link I posted on another forum. They gave some answers as well basically just saying, it's the mower and nothing you can do....

Here is a link that might be useful: Reel Mower problem

When should I expect the peek performance of my grass to be?

Comments (16)

nearandwest

dchall_san_antonio

Related Discussions

nearandwest

texas_weed

nearandwest

BamaMatt
Original Author

nearandwest

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

texas_weed

BamaMatt
Original Author

texas_weed

BamaMatt
Original Author

nearandwest

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

When should I expect the peek performance of my grass to be?

Comments (16)

Related Discussions

BamaMattOriginal Author

BamaMattOriginal Author

BamaMattOriginal Author

BamaMattOriginal Author

BamaMattOriginal Author

BamaMattOriginal Author

BamaMattOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author

BamaMatt
Original Author