I have really good news for you! Yes, you can mow now. Set your mower up to the medium height or higher and mow off what mows off. The other good news is that you should never have to aerate or seed. You need to take note of anyone who told you that and put some imaginary duct tape over their mouth. I'm not sure aerating has any benefit at all for a homeowner. Perhaps a golf course might benefit from it because they have people walking on the grass even when the soil is too wet to be walking on. That causes compaction. You don't get that at home. If your soil is hard, there is another solution for that. Also KBG is the one northern grass which should never need to be reseeded. It spreads fast to fill in bare spots. The other popular northern grasses do not spread. The rest of the news is that you don't need to fertilize until after you have mowed real grass for the second time...at least. I would wait until Memorial Day. Once your grass awakens, it will grow like gangbusters for several weeks. If you had fertilized early, that fast growth would be hyper fast growth requiring mowing 3x per week to keep up with it. Then by late spring the grass plants would have exhausted their food supply and need more fertilizer. So just leave it alone, wait or it to come in naturally, mow when it is tall enough, fertilize in late spring, and enjoy not aerating and seeding.

Thanks for your reply. However, your psychic senses are wrong. I do tend to analyze things, especially when it's regarding a new endeavor/field I have no prior knowledge/experience of. It has yielded outstanding results for me in the past and so I continue to approach things in this manner. Regarding seeding too late - well, first off, I just took possession of the house so I couldn't seed earlier. Also, I live in Edmonton, Alberta Canada and if you've ever lived here, you would know that our summer is pretty much about 2 weeks long. lol Anyway, When I did the overseeding, it was about beginning of June and temperatures were about 10 C - 20 C and we've been getting a lot of rain lately. In fact, we're just starting to go up to highs of 20 C - 25 C and in about 5 days is the first day we're supposed to hit 29 C, as per the forecast. I know that Spring and Fall are the textbook times to overseed but our weather/termperatures here does not conform to the norm. Our temperatures in October are already winter temperatures for a lot of places in the States. Also, I did not want to wait until fall because I wanted to get started on thickening the lawn asap. I was confused with this statement though: "But you are just now coming into spring...and fall is just around the corner." Spring is technically done..did you mean, "just coming into summer"? I usually mow at around 4 -5 inches and only take a bit off. I know all about the "only take 1/3 off" and "mow high" recommendations. I only scalped it this one time to prepare for overseeding to facilitate better seed to soil contact. I've read about the roller thing but decided that it wasn't needed. I did not want to compact things any more either especially since I was core aerating. I ran my rake through the soil and seeds to enhance seed to soil contact and this is a technique that has been recommended in several articles and videos. I also did not want to bury the seeds too deep. In fact, I already have baby grass growing to about heights of 2 inches now. I only noticed them yesterday and they are even much taller today. I like your idea of sowing KBG first, then fescue then PRG but here's the thing - I have not found any stand alone seed packages in my local Walmart/Home Depot/Canadian Tire stores. They are all blends. I haven't gone to garden centers though but that's also because I do not want to pay more for something that sells less at Home Depot. Also, I think this says something.. I think that for our climate and grass types, the seed blends probably tend to work better. I think this is evidenced by the fact that I primarily see Scotts Sun and Shade being sold in all these places and not the other types - i.e. high traffic, high heat etc.. Also, this blend tends to get the best reviews on Canadian Tire.com. The other thing too is that I've read blends were made so that the PRG can germinate first and help establish the turf while the fescue and KBG are taking their sweet time to germinate - helps with thickening up lawn quicker and crowding out weeds. If I wanted to wait (or had the luxury to do so - i.e. lawn isn't too bare) the full 21-28 days, then I would probably just seed with pure KBG and not worry about blends. I've decided to wait with the dandelions. I've emailed Scotts and they said to wait after mowing the new grass 3 times before using Killex as it destroys grass seed and new grass. Just wondering why you say spot spraying is far better than broadcast anything. I just feel that if Killex is safe to use on an established lawn, it would be more efficient to just broadcast it, in terms of time and coverage. Regarding my neighbor's lawn - I'm not worried that her lawn looks like crap..I just feel that her dandelions are invading my lawn and I can see that most of the dandelions on my lawn are on the side close to hers. Anyway, I'm just gonna keep mowing high and hopefully it gets thick enough to crowd out weeds and hopefull I won't have too many dandelions and I'll just deal with them as they come.

I am by far not an expert grass guy but I can give you some insight into what I have learned after starting 3 large lawn areas under less than ideal conditions. It sounds like you have done a great job so far. IMHO I would mow your grass will be 2 feet tall if you wait for it all to germinate and be 3" tall. Sure your going to crush/damage/kill some seedlings but how many are you going to lose if they are deprived of sunshine? Plus you will be stressing your existing grass by chopping too much off. The clippings, if anything, will help retain moisture for them. I try not to step on or roll over known seeded areas, sounds like this might be hard for you. I agree with waiting 8-10 mowings to broadcast spray. I have killed seedlings by jumping the gun. I personally would wait till fall. You could spot spray and will only risk killing seedlings with the over spray or, thanks to a user here, use a small paint brush and paint each one. I over seed my lawns every spring and fall. I broadcast spray with killex the day before I am going to seed. Watch home depot and the like in late fall. They usually blow out seeds and other gardening stuff at pennies on the dollar. One thing that really helped me and my lawns was buying a soil test kit. I test my soil about 3 times a year (spring, mid summer, fall) to find out what it is lacking and buy fertilizer to balance it out. I didn't realize my soil was very alkaline and after dropping the PH my lawn is doing WAY better. Good luck SCG

Yes it is too late to plant more radishes. They are a cool-seaon crop. While they will grow for a while in hot weather, their flavor will be unbearably strong. In late winter/early spring, you can start planting radishes as soon as your soil temperature at planting depth is 45 degrees or highly...so probably in late January or early February of an average year. You can succession plant more whenever you choose until about a month before your daytime high temps begin regularly exceeding 80 degrees. If you sow any later than that, the radishes usually are pithy and have an unpleasantly strong flavor. Also, the type of radishes we grow in late winter/early spring are annuals so high temperatures and late spring's/early summer's longer daylength causes them to flower and go to seed. To plant radishes for fall, you can sow seed only after your daily high temps are falling below 80 degrees. For me, I think that is usually in October sometime....and not necessarily early in October and sometimes not until early November. They'll grow and do OK until nighttime lows start dropping below 40 degrees but the ones that are growing/developing once the nights are below 55 degrees will develop very slowly and sometimes can develop an odd sort of off-flavor. You also can plant winter radishes (thery're a different type from summer radishes, and I think Dorothy grows them) about the same time you plant your fall crop of summer radishes. However, the winter radishes are cold hardy and will grow through the winter for harvest in winter or spring. Usually winter radishes are larger than summer radishes.