I just have to say, as an OKC'an, it took my fescue almost a full 20 days before growing 1/4 inch. Mad props on yours, you did something right. As far as leveling, If you touch the little seeds now and try to level, I'd think they'd get upset with that and try to die on you. On leveling your lawn, I don't have an answer but I'll suggest some things: 1) If your ankle is rolling when you walk across the lawn, I'd level now and reseed (especially if it will spring back up in 4 days). BUT, we are supposed to get heavy rainfall for the next week, which could erode your yard and cause more channels to form. 2) If you re level and reseed, would hay or straw help prevent erosion? On light rains I could see it helping. But an Oklahoma down pour would still form channels. 3) If your ankle isn't rolling, I'd wait for the grass to get established and then fill in "weird" areas with some light top soil until the leveling you want is achieved. I need to mention I'm an amateur and know nothing about growing grass really. A lot more people are more qualified. I just know what a pain it is to grow fescue in OKC. Cheers

I do it all the time in my semi-arid climate with the thought it might help it keep from getting a little sun-scalded if it gets hot and dry after the mow (even the next day). I can't say for sure about the last idea, but, I can say for sure watering right after a cut has never seemed to have any detrimental affect in my area. That said, the usual suggestions about watering at times that won't contribute to fungus and disease should always be kept in mind, regardless of cutting schedule. Here most suggest watering cool season grasses in the early morning so as to not add moisture to the lawn during the heat of the afternoon and evening. Suggestions vary depending on local climate.

If you have had plenty of water, the only two other reasons that grass turns brown is fungal disease or insects. You might dig up a full square foot of the sod somewhere where it is browned out looking for grub worms. They are about the size of your thumb and have a C shape. If you have more than a dozen in the 1-square foot area, then that's the problem and you can treat for grub worms. If you have a lot fewer, then the problem is disease. The problem with treating for disease with chemicals is that you have to figure out which disease it is or you'll get the wrong treatment. One of the reasons I started gardening organically is that the treatment for disease is usually the same: corn meal. Yes, ordinary corn meal (like what you cook with) grows a predatory fungus that kills the disease fungus. It takes 3 full weeks to work but it works most of the time. I see you have a mix of grasses and plants (weeds???) in the lawn. One of the excellent reasons to have a mix is that not all the grass or plants will be affected by any single disaster. You can probably leave yours alone and it will fill back in with something. You might consider sowing Dutch white clover seed over the entire lawn. It is a hassle free ground cover, especially when mixed with other grasses and plants.

Without more info there is no way to tel. Freezing winter area? How cold? Gutters not draining? Holding water and then leaking? North side of house? Other sources of moisture? These are the first things that come to mind.