What Is The Darkest Green Grass Seed Available?
ncrealestateguy
10 years ago
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tiemco
10 years agoauteck
10 years agoRelated Discussions
I Need Help Selecting the Right Grass and Grass Seed
Comments (7)If others in your neighborhood grow Bermuda, and it seems to do well there, then yours should too. With lots of sun, tall fescue will also work, which I personally prefer over Bermuda. It's less invasive, stays green all year when healthy, and because it grows long puts down a deeper root system. It also looks really nice when "striped." It's been many years since I researched Bermuda, but my memory tells me that it's pretty difficult to grow from seed, albeit not as hard as Zoysia. Fescue is easy to sow, though I wouldn't do it until the fall. Your plan of cutting short, topdressing, sedding, topdressing sounds viable to me. I would add compost (I like Black Kow) to the topdressing as well. You should also press the seed into the soil. The flat side of a garden rake works fine for relatively small lawns, although you'll want to rent a roller for anything of real size. Good luck....See MoreJonathan Green Sun and Shade grass seed
Comments (3)Well my thoughts are this. 0.04 may not seem like a big potential for weeds but that is potentially millions of weed seeds depending on what type of weed. It is entirely possible to get certified, blue tag 100% weed free seed, it just involves (usually) ordering it from a seed dealer rather than a local retail outlet. That doesn't necessarily mean paying a lot of money although shipping rates are still fairly high. As for the varieties you mentioned, I haven't heard of those before but what you can do, if you are willing to order by phone from a seed dealer is contact them regarding the top performers on those NTEP lists for your state and see if they can recommend a blend for shade. I would actually not use bluegrass in the shade where you are. I think that is asking for trouble. But the fine fescues (cr. red, chewings, & hard) and possibly perennial rye would make a good shade blend for you. If you have a John Deere Landscape supply house near you, they probably stock a shade blend that it certified & blue tag. But they are generally open only 9-5 m-f and I'm not sure if they still sell to the public or not. They used to be called Lesco and sold to the public. If you go to lesco.com you can see if there are any locaitons near you....See MoreYour deepest darkest seed sources!
Comments (12)I had given up hope that anyone was going to post. I love Chiltern's and Secret Seeds - if anyone loves codonopsis check them out. Flowersandthings link was a new one to me! Definitely got a spend some time there. I had checked out Hazel Nut's link before but keep forgetting to bookmark when browsing. Not only that, for some reason my bookmarks delete themselves. Truly annoying. I had saved some really unique sites like the place that sells the hardwood laced with truffle spores. I'll post another link this weekend when I get a chance to browse GW and see what plant I'm obsessing about this week. Sheila...See More2 New Soil Tests - comparing soil for green grass vs. yellow grass
Comments (17)Spotty higher pH can happen if you got the soil off of one particular section of the pile...that happened to contain the old B horizon with some limestone in it! In my case, I got the old subsoil on my lot, so it just kind of stank all around. * You said you targeted our phosphorus level higher than your own lawn. Is this due to the pH difference or something else? Is phosphorus bound in the soil at higher pH's, and is our pH (7.1 - 7.3) high enough to cause that? pH. If you look at the availability of P by pH, it drops as pH rises above seven. You're not that far over, the binding isn't extreme, so I just boosted the numbers a little bit. Your standard is around 220, most people with slightly acidic pH would be around 200. In your case, I wouldn't blink at anything between 200 and 300. I never use my own soil as a standard, per se, for anybody else's. Mine have given in to some experimental stuff, plus I've over-enhanced the gardens to match the (extreme) density and (extraordinarily high) performance I demand they support. My current P levels in the garden push 1,000. * What kind of quality issues can we expect from the low phosphorus level until it's corrected? Thin, weak, sparse growth that gets sick and dies easily, discolors easily, grows poorly, and generally doesn't look at all good. Installed sod would tend to thin out and die back over the course of a year or so if it isn't corrected, resulting in a lot of thin patches and blank areas. N, P, and K are the big three and absolutely have to be there in the correct proportions (N we take care of on an as-needed basis). * It sounds like the Milorganite is great stuff, but I'm very sensitive to odors, so I don't think it's a good fit for our lawn. If we used ferrous sulfate instead (being careful to sweep it off the concrete), what rate and frequency would you recommend? I assume we don't need to worry about lowering the soil pH too much with the ferrous sulfate since the starting pH is above 7.0. I'd be comfortable with ferrous sulfate (monohydrate or pentahydrate, it doesn't matter) at 3 pounds per thousand square feet in April, early October, and perhaps early November if the weather's holding. Keep an eye on the pH in this case, though, as iron sulfate is about an eighth as acidifying as pure elemental sulfur and does NOT require digging in to work! Never use iron during hotter months or when the soil's going to freeze solid for winter within two or three weeks of use....See Moretiemco
10 years agoncrealestateguy
10 years agotiemco
10 years agoauteck
10 years agoGale Gibbons
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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