You're pH of 7.6 really isn't too bad for most vegetables but a downward adjustment would increase nutrient availability and, most likely, yield. I would add sulfur prior to the next cropping cycle. I would do about 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. That will adjust your pH downward over time and it will happen pretty dang slowly. Remember that lime buffers against that change and since you have a lot of it, you're soil is strongly buffered. Clay is another thing that will buffer against pH changes and if you have a clay soil, that will also work against your downward pH adjustment. Another test next year to see where you're at would be in order. For nitrogen, as mentioned above, blood meal would be a good choice. 10 to 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to the same depth should be about right for new plants. If you're looking for one material that that will provide nitrogen while acidifying, blood meal will do virtually nothing, particularly considering your buffering capacity. You would have to move to synthetics to do what you have in mind. Two options would be ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) and sulfur coated urea, which is usually around (40-0-0). Ammonium sulfate = fast release, sulfur coated urea = slow release. Good rates would be 7 lbs. and 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft., respectively. Both of those would also give your sulfur level a little boost as well. But be aware that the pH change would rely on regular re-application of those acidifying fertilizers over a very loooooong time (again, buffer). The sulfur really would be a better route for you. On a side note, as your instincts have already told you, BER is not always due to low calcium in the soil. Un-even watering (too wet, followed by too dry, repeat) is usually what leads to the problem. Yes, it's a calcium deficiency in the tissue but variances in water availability to the plant plays a major role in the uptake of that nutrient.

It means your soil would make good vinegar with decent nutrition. What is throwing me off is the recommendation for lime. I assume they mean for a single application to be repeated frequently. The reason I say this is because 35-pounds per 1000/ft2 is not enough to raise a 5.1 anywhere near 7.0. Normally they would say something like 40 or 50-pounds per 1000/ft2 repeated every 90-days or twice annually or something like that for that low of a PH. Did they have any other verbiage with regards to lime in the recommendations? I do not have my tables out to reference too right now, but I can tell you it will take a lot more than single 35-pounds 1000/ft2 to raise 5.1 to acceptable limits. The deal is you cannot do it all at once and have to do it incrementally, so that is why I ask is there more verbiage included in the recommendations. As to your question, get the lime down ASAP to give it some time to work. Ideally you would have wanted to do this last spring and repeating again yesterday. Yes they mean 35-ponds per 1000/ft2 so if your lawn is 10,000/ft2 you will need 350 pounds to cover it.

The pH of that soil is fine for what you are growing so adding anything to change that pH is not necessary. You can use these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. with the Rutgers to look at the soil in depth and they can help guide you in making decisions about what to do with the soil. I have grown vegetables in the soil I have here with the soil pH in the 7.2 range for many years now with few problems, a few insect pests but no plant disease.

Rhododendrons and azaleas are members of the Ericaceae, or "lime-hating" plants. They are commonly called acid loving, but they can't tolerate too much acidity any better then alkaline soil. These plants typically want a pH between 5 and 6. Your pH is 7.3 which is alkaline (not acidic). Hence the lime recommendation is zero. If you want to grow rhododendrons and azaleas you could alter the pH with powdered sulfur. Your report doesn't say this but a Clemson Extension report (http://hubcap.clemson.edu/%7eblpprt/lowerpH.html) recommends using 4.0 pounds of elemental sulfur per 100 square feet in your situation. This is 1.5 tablespoons per square foot. Your Espoma Soil Acidifier is elemental sulfur and gypsum. This is a good product for rhododendrons and azaleas. Since it is only effectively 20% sulfur, you would need to use 5 times as much of this as powdered sulfur or 20 pounds per 100 square feet. I can't give a tablespoon equivalent since the percent numbers are based on weight and not volume. Your magnesium levels are good which is beneficial. Your nitrogen levels aren't stated, but the recommendation is fairly normal since Nitrogen must be added periodically. With rhododendrons and azaleas, nitrogen is obtained by replentishing the organic mulch periodically. Since you are building up the soil, don't use any nitrate fertilizer. Nitrates are common in nitrogen fertilizer but suppress Mycorrhizae which are fungi that help the roots take in nutrients, especially phosphorus which your soil is sadly deficient in. Your potassium levels are normal. Your phosphorus levels are very low. Rhododendrons and azaelas require normal levels of phosphorus for general health and flower production. Fortunately phosphorus levels can be raised with rock phosphate. The N-P-K levels on fertizers are percent by weight. So 20 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer is 1 pound nitrogen, 2 pounds of phosphorus, and 1 pound of potassium. 20 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer per 1000 square feet would be ideal, or 2 pounds per 100 square feet. Espoma's Holly-Tone fertilizer is a good rhododendron and azaleas fertilizer, but it is only a 4-3-4 fertilizer. You would need to augment it with phosphorus. You could use 25 pounds of Holly-Tone per 1000 square feet, or 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet AND 30 pounds of Espoma Rock Phosphate per 1000 square foot or 3 pounds per 100 square foot. Alternatively you could use a raised bed. This is much easier to manage since it is independent of the native soil underneath. In areas with alkaline soil, this is the most common way to go. When preparing a raised bed use good garden soil mixed with conifer bark dust and peat moss to get a good acidic soil with lots of organic matter and good drainage. Another worry, if your soil is alkaline, is your water alkaline also. If it is, then you best irrigate with rain water. This can be accomplished by collecting rain water from downspouts from a roof. I hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.