That was something else I have tried, as I looked again at the bottle of concentrates I have, one of Fertilome's products has triclopyr and another had dicamba along with the 2,4-d. As I am watching the backyard these past few days, it is all yellowing and the bindweed is slowly withering. This was the area that I hit with a concentrate of 2,4-d and metsulfuron methyl. I was told it may take time but would work. Our biggest problem in central and western Kansas is that the field bindweed has become resistant to glyphosate and 2,4-d. I guess just had to continue on it, but now it is trying to poke in where some has established, hopefully the bermuda will keep it down, plus I spot treat whenever I see them. Today I did spread Tall Fescue underneath my tree along with some bermuda though it likes sun better, but I have more of it than others. Prior to doing that I had spread phosphorous in the area I tore up, worked the soil with my weasel and gave it some water, then today sowed the seeds, and applied scotts liquid turf grower. This particular area I had already gotten the weeds to die off, and it was loaded with earthworms. It was tough to level out due to the steep grade between my house and my neighbor, we'll see how it turns out since it is a shady area.

you call you 2 to 3 footers small .. i started with 6 inches.. on bare sand ... with drip irrigation ... 14 years later ... they are all over 20 feet ... [note: no mulch with drip] you kinda left out the drip irrigation info ... you CAN figure out a schedule ... my point is.. no one else can figure it out for you ... with my drip ... i would water.. until it is moist.. at least 6 inches down ... run the water ... dig a hole under an emitter ... run it more.. dig another hole .... etc ... FIGURE IT OUT .... [actually.. in my hosta beds.. i ran it.. until a hole dug between two emitters .. was damp at depth ...] again.. with my system.. on my soil ... i found .... that if i ran the drip for 6 to 8 hours ... in my sand.. i could get the sand moist to the root depth ... dont ever forget.. its all about getting water to the roots ... not the soil surface ... and we really dont care.. if the surface gets dry ... keep digging holes .... [if it need be said.. dig hole not where trees are ... you should have plenty of drippers in between plants ... remove grass.. dig down.. make discovery ... replace soil.. put grass plug back in ...] and barring drought.. or extreme heat... i might only water every 7 to 10 days... because it simply doenst dry.. AT DEPTH ... all that fast.. subject to your soil ... and once you figure it out.. you can quit digging holes ... the grass is irrelevant... with the drippers.. so make your own decision in that regard ... and for those of you who dont knwo about engineered drippers... they may only put out 1/4 gal per hour ... so even thought the hours might sound extreme ... usage usually isnt ... also... very little is lost to evaporation ... as you arent making it airborne to begin with ... so dont go all horrified on these numbers ... good luck .. sound like that guy you are relying on.. is brilliant.. if i may say so myself... lol ken ps: also.. getting it moist in the first place.. may take more hours.. than maintaining it ....

My St. Augustine is allready greening up. You indicate zone 7 Ft. Worth. We are actually in zone 8A unless you are north of Ft. Worth. Now, 20% vinegar works a lot like Roundup in that it kills grass and weeds so if your grass is starting to green up I would use a spray bottle and spot treat weeds. Other, the stuff is pretty caustic so use gloves. IMO, the best control of weeds is a healthy turf and the hot Texas sun.

I think you're past the temperature window when it's safe to use it at all, because when it gets close to 90, it can kill the grass as well as the weeds. I use it rarely. Usually only if I used my weed hound when the soil was too dry, so ended up with dandelions growing out of a small hole that the weed hound can't get them out of. What I do is get the spray nozzle a few inches from each individual weed and spray. Any farther and you get drift, leading to damaged or dying trees, shrubs, vegetables and so forth. It's almost too much trouble to use, I think. Sounds like the IFA guy has a different approach--using it in a sprayer and doing the entire lawn. Unless you've got mostly weeds, that's overkill. If you sprayed on a day with absolutely no wind and were very careful, you might avoid damaging other plants, but odds are, if you spray that much, some will go where you don't want it. As for the bindweed. Your best bet with that is to pull it as soon as you see it, so that it doesn't get a chance to feed its roots. If you do that enough, you can keep it at bay. From what I understand, the best time to kill bindweed is during the fall, after a light frost. That's when it really starts to stockpile food in its roots, so any poisons go deep into the root system. I'm posting a link to a thread with a discussion of using a dilute solution of glysophate in jars to slowly kill the bindweed. The reasoning is that if you kill it quickly, it kills the leaves, but the roots live. If you kill it slowly, it absorbs the glysophate and takes it deep into the roots. There's also a mite that attacks bindweed. My understanding is that it takes several years for it to kill the weeds, but it only kills bindweed. I don't think they're readily available in Utah, but somebody on the forum was going to bring some in and give infected plants away once he had some. If you search the forum for bindweed mite, you can probably find the details. Here is a link that might be useful: Long thread on weed forum